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clevo pillow block

8K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  CRUSHU F150 
#1 ·
are they as good as they say
 
#3 ·
pinkbits said:
are they as good as they say
I have one i built late last year. From an 82 F100 ambulance. It works the same as any other block. Although, this is the only motor i have ever had oilpressure problems with, but i think is the pump??.(still cant blow it up. lol)
Ive heard some people pay big dollars for them just for being rare. I paid $100 for a std bore pillowblock. Sell it for a grand, and buy another standard block, and have $900 left. haha.
 
#4 ·
ch7472 said:
I dont no what all the fuss is about. Something about better cooling? I have worked on all sorts of Fords over the years and have never noticed anything better with one or the other. But I am shore all the other experts will no better.
Better cooling.........? The bores are actually heaps thicker. As a result of this the outer surfaces of the block had to be moved out otherwise there wouldn't have been much of a coolant passage around the bores. This gives the "pillow" effect that most people believe is for extra cooling. It probably helps in the cooling process as well, but this is only a secondary benefit. The people who usually make "a fuss" about them are engine machiners/builders, as they have had first hand with the limits of the bores on "normal" clevos and "pillow blocks". I would call them experts who know better. (They can probably spell too). The blocks were fitted randomly from 1980 onwards (i've seen one in a falcon ute - factory).
 
#6 ·
pillow blocks are no stronger than std blocks, they were an experimental block to hold more water for the marine industry. The project didnt pan out so they were put back into stock for regular use.
 
#11 ·
4Vman said:
D block yep, ive seen one too, but not a sq block, they are a better quality cating than a D block.
OK I 'll be the mug but I am sure there are others who don't know either.

What is the difference between a D block and Square block?
 
#12 ·
I've hit water going just 30 thou which required a sleeve plus a few other problems associated mainly with the US cast blocks.All of the oz based blocks so far have come up good.I have yet to come up against a pillow block but if i did it would still undergo a sonic check to see if indeed the bores are thicker.
 
#13 ·
shaynet said:
OK I 'll be the mug but I am sure there are others who don't know either.

What is the difference between a D block and Square block?
A "D" block is an early US casting that was fitted to late XW, XY and early XA cleveland powered Fords (mainly GT's).
It is identified by the casting code D0AE and a "D" shaped hump on the passenger-side top of the timing chain housing.
A "Square block" is the later US and aussie casting identified by the casting code D2AE-CA with a little "square" in the place where the "D" shaped hump is on the block.
 
#16 ·
ive seen a few black pillow blocks and were shown the difference betweent them and the standard black block and nascar block, by Simon Birch from H.I.T. ages ago(BAGTHO) and was told the main differences were ofcourse the thicker bores which were obvious when looking at the side of the block as there where raised sections around the bores which allowed for safer 30,40thou machining and was even said to be able to handle to bored out 60 thou and still be relatively safe and there where improved water flow features aswell. other than that there exactly the same if your gonna build a 500+hp it would be a worth while investment a hell of alot chaper than the alternative, Nascar, Dart, and World blocks which range from $2,500 to $4,500.
 
#17 ·
pinkbits said:
are they as good as they say
I have a Pillow Type Block and it isn't any thicker than any other Aussie Clevo block(black block).
 
#19 ·
4Vman said:
A "D" block is an early US casting that was fitted to late XW, XY and early XA cleveland powered Fords (mainly GT's).
It is identified by the casting code D0AE and a "D" shaped hump on the passenger-side top of the timing chain housing.
A "Square block" is the later US and aussie casting identified by the casting code D2AE-CA with a little "square" in the place where the "D" shaped hump is on the block.
Ok, so lets have a little bit of a history lesson about Clevo blocks.

I have had a look at both my XD ESP & XD Chaser blocks (both 351) and they are both square blocks. Both cars were built 12/81. Presumably both black blocks.

However, the ESP has a large dizzy drive shaft hole in the block but the Chaser has a small hole. Can you shed any light on this? Of course, it cannot be guaranteed they are both original blocks, even though body and engine numbers match
 
#20 ·
shaynet said:
Ok, so lets have a little bit of a history lesson about Clevo blocks.

I have had a look at both my XD ESP & XD Chaser blocks (both 351) and they are both square blocks. Both cars were built 12/81. Presumably both black blocks.

However, the ESP has a large dizzy drive shaft hole in the block but the Chaser has a small hole. Can you shed any light on this? Of course, it cannot be guaranteed they are both original blocks, even though body and engine numbers match
XC was the last of the blue block small hole blocks, its a minor change in machining. Id say the XD "chaser" had a change over motor fitted and it was an earlier block used. Allot of American blocks were imported during the 80's and 90's which are identical to ours but dont have engine numbers stamped on them, they were used by engine reco places to provide a change over service.
 
#21 ·
4Vman said:
XC was the last of the blue block small hole blocks, its a minor change in machining. Id say the XD "chaser" had a change over motor fitted and it was an earlier block used. Allot of American blocks were imported during the 80's and 90's which are identical to ours but dont have engine numbers stamped on them, they were used by engine reco places to provide a change over service.
Hang on a minute. Dont the later model bocks have the small drive and the older have the large?
 
#24 ·
i have a early street machine mag showing 2 clevo blocks side by side one is a factory 4 bolt block and the other is a 2 bolter anyway the 4 bolter is a thicker block so i am assuming pillow blocks are 4 bolt mains true/false.
My new engine builder explained to me that if stroking and pushing the envelope then a pillow block may be worth considering over a aftermarket block but for every other day weekend warriors a standard block is suffice.
AZZA
 
#25 ·
4Vman said:
Yes you're right, sorry i got them around the wrong way! :hy:
Which means that the ESP has an earlier block. Or the dizzy shaft hole has been drilled out?

The motor from this car was shipped by the previous original owner to a high profile engine builder in Melbourne around 1984/6 to be tricked up but it seems the same block didn't come back - same engine number maybe, but not the same block!
 
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