Hi all, You blokes sound like you know what your talking about so ill ask your opion. Would 110psi oil presure be right for a 378ci clevo? That has a crow restrictor kit and a mellings high flow oil pump the lifter bores are brass sleeved also, I think the oil gallries have been opened up in the back of the cam shaft and the crank for more oil. When i went to ask the bloke that machined the block he said that its fine. I've asked around and some people say that its to high some say its ok. Also Ive had trouble with the oil filter blowing the seal could that be from high oil pres as well or poor product. Im running HPR50 oil maybe to thick for this combo I duno!! thats what ive always run in my motors.
Your opions would be great thanks Mick
Is the 110 at idle or under load, it should be around 10psi for every 1000rpm, so if you have that pressure at 11000rpm it's ok, if not there is something wrong.
110 is a tad too high..... I used to blow oil pressure senders in my XD at 100.
One question, why fit a high volume pump in a cleveland, especially if you have a restrictor kit fitted? I have never had problems with a standard pump.
One question, why fit a high volume pump in a cleveland, especially if you have a restrictor kit fitted? I have never had problems with a standard pump.
Theres a difference between pressure and volume. All well and good to have loads of pressure but it useless without volume. It works the same way as fuel pumps.
I went and had a word with Chris @ Speedpro. He's been drag racing Clevelands for years. At 6500+ he recommends a high vol pump. Below that he say a standards fine. He said standards won't hold pressure @ 6500-7000rpm.
xdclevo : you sleeve lifter bores because the lifter bored needed machine due to being wide @ the bottom and narrower at the top. So with a high lift cam the lifter gets stuck and doesn't turn. Causing a lifter and cam damage. It's only common with high lift cams.
xdclevo : you sleeve lifter bores because the lifter bored needed machine due to being wide @ the bottom and narrower at the top. So with a high lift cam the lifter gets stuck and doesn't turn. Causing a lifter and cam damage. It's only common with high lift cams.
They are sleeved for a number of reasons. And the sleeves are drilled with a certain sized "restrictor" hole, oviously resulting in less oil volume being lost.
They are sleeved for a number of reasons. And the sleeves are drilled with a certain sized "restrictor" hole, oviously resulting in less oil volume being lost.
my oil pressure sits at between 60 and 70 on normall acceleration and drops down to 40 on idle, i use 20-50w penzoil ive heard kendal oil is suppose to be really good??? also a few people i know have been going on about this miltech stuff anyone heard of it??
Theres a difference between pressure and volume. All well and good to have loads of pressure but it useless without volume. It works the same way as fuel pumps.
A pump doesn't create pressure at all. A pump is rated by volume (litres/min) and maximum working pressure (before seals etc fail). With most pumps, the faster they spin, the more they pump. Therefore more volume, which is why a pressure gauge reading increases with engine revs, as the pump is trying to push through more oil, but the 'demand' by the engine has not changed much (yes, the bearing to journal gaps will increase, but not much in relation to the amount of extra oil). The 'pressure' is created within the engine. The tighter the clearances in an engine, the higher the pressure. Which is why an old engine with practically zero pressure at idle can have new bearings fitted and an instant gain in oil pressure will occur, using the same oil pump.
Most 'race' stuff (from my limited understanding) has larger than normal bearing clearances, so a high volume pump is needed to keep up with the oil 'bleeding' out through the larger gaps.
A standard pump will keep up at higher revs, unless the pickup is blocked, which will cause cavitation, and result in the pressure dropping at high revs.
Lastly, apologies to Brendan. I quoted your post out of laziness. This information of mine wasn't meant as a direct attack on your post...
The old rule of thumb use to be 10psi per 1000rpm, I think an even better one is 10psi per 100hp(that comes from a top "Winston Cup" engine builder in the US). Either way 110psi is over the top. You will also loose hp for no good reason,and wear out your distributor gear very quickly.
come up with a conclusion the gage is shit tossed it over the right sholder now got an autometer one and shows 55psi at idle and 65 at 5500 rpm and doesnt get any higher thanks for the info boys ill let you know how it dynos mick
Hi Mick, Mine sits over 100 all the time, Use a K&N filter or similar. RED.....
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