Ian,
A VERY comprehensive post. Many Thanks.
I think I will avoid removing the timing belt again as its only a
month or two since it was last off (to replace that pesky water gasket
between block and timing case).
That said, I will TDC it and make sure all markers line up as they
should. I suspect they do because it runs sweet.
From reading your post, as I understand it, my engine is setup right
(timing wise) if woodruff key is at 12 o'clock, slot in flywheel is
visible and a 10mm drill can be placed right into the fuel pump all
whilst cylinder No1 is at TDC. Is this right?
If I can get to this stage or verify that it is correct then I will be
happy to leave it like this until I can get the new intercooler and
get someone else who knows more what they are doing to "tweak".
Thanks a lot,
Jon
On 4 Aug 2005 12:15:16 -0700, "m0bcg" <almacottage@btopenworld.com>
wrote:
>there is a slot in the pump gear and a hole in the backing plate which
>when the timing gears are lined up will pass the pump gear hole over a
>hole in the pump body , in which you locate a pin in order to lock pump
>and shaft in position .
>
>this is all done with No1 cyl at top dead centre .
>
>the locking pin is about 10mm diameter and so you can use a drill if
>you like to lock the pump in place .
>
>the 3 bolts in the pump gear are there to allow the gear to move and
>align itself in the timing belt without altering the injector pump
>timing , however when tensiong a new timing belt you may alter the cam
>timing by a very small amount but this is normal and seems not to be
>worried about to some degree ..
>
>the woodruff key on the crankshaft will be at 12 clock position when
>engine is at top dead centre and the camshaft gear aligns with mark on
>block .
>
>if you take off top of rocker cover you can watch the rockers moving as
>you turn engine over by hand and when No1 cyl is at top dead centre
>neither rocker on No1 cylinder will be moving , if they are rocking you
>need to go one more turn over until both are closed and note the crank
>keyway to come up to 12 oclock , ie directly on top towards sky .
>
>in gearbox bellhousing underneath the landrover , is a tapped hole ,
>when engine is at top dead centre youll see a slot in the flywheel
>aligns with centre of hole, this needs to be locked also, using a pin .
>
>
>if you were to buy either a DIFFLOCK timing pin & puller kit at 99
>quid , it has all pins and pullers necessary to retime landy diesels
>from N/ A 200/300TDI , or if you look on internet there are BERGEN
>timing pin kits available for landys .
>
>youll need a crank pulley puller to remove the crank harmonic
>damper/pulley and a 27mm socket to undo the crank pulley retaining bolt
>.
>
>you can screw the crank bolt back in so you can turn engine over for
>timing purposes, no need to remove glow plugs , you can turn engine
>over using knuckle bar and socket .
>
>dont forget to tighten the crank pulley bolt nice and tight after .
>
>to get crank pulley bolt undone , a sharp blow with lump hammer to
>knuckle bar will loosen it .
> use a little loctite on the thread when you reinstall crank bolt .
>
>dont forget to remove the flywheel locking pin before you rotate engine
>.
>
>no need to remove timing belt in order to retime injector pump so long
>as you havent rotated it by more than the gear slot allows .
>
>if you are not intending on taking crank pulley etc off to adjust
>injector pump timing , then watch rockers on no1 cyl to indicate
>coming up to top dead, look under gearbox housing hole and line up
>flywheel slot and lock in place if poss , then loosen 3 pump gear bolts
>and rotate pump shaft locking nut back so to align with timing pin
>hole and lock in place with pin .
>
> then you can retighten 3 pump gear bolts and remove locking pins .
>
>if you find the power is very high but you have lots of black smoke
>from exhaust at all ranges , undo the fuel metering screw on rear of
>pump and go out 1/4 turn at a time until smoke dissappears .
>youll have to strike balance between power and smoke and so it may take
>a few attempts to get satisfactory .
>
>this screw is on rear of pum near the injector pipe unions , it has a
>13mm locknut and a screwthread extending out about 25mm , there is
>screwdriver slot in end of thread , you hold locknut loose with spanner
>and then unscrew or screw the thread in or out as desired .
>IN for more fuel, OUT for less .
>
>the "smoke adjuster" is on top of pump housing,there is a small [gold]
>blanking cap [15mm dia] on top of casting which has the 4 screws in ,
>pry cap out with screwdriver and youll see 13mm locknut with a 8mm TORX
>grub screw , this screw is screwed in for more fuel and out for less ,
>locknut may be loctited and so might need a bit of effort to undo .
>
>inside pump, under top casting , ie the housing on top of pump which
>has 4 screws holding it down , is a diaphragm and shaft and a starwheel
>adjuster which alters fuel delivery rates .
>
>the metal plate holding rubber diaphragm has a dot mark on it and the
>diaphragm can be rotated to change fuel metering rates , this will be
>pointing somewhere between 12 oclock [to rocker cover] and 6 oclock
>[towards wing ] , the leanest position is towards rocker cover and
>richest towards wing .
>
>just take it that youll position it somewhere from 12 oclock to 6
>oclock , it does not screw in and out but rotates around a 360deg axis
>.
>
>you can pull the diaphragm assembly out by hand , in one piece with
>rubber and shaft attatched .
>
>on shaft youll note a tapered and eccentric shape of shaft , this
>rests against a pin down in the pump itself and alters fuel rates
>according to position the taper or eccentric is in .
>
>the turbo boost pressure is applied upon diaphragm via pipe on side of
>top housing and thus pushes shaft down using the diaphragm , allowing
>pin in pump to come in and allow more fuel thru as revs and boost
>pressure increase etc .
>
>under diaphragm youll see large spring , this is just placed in there
>and can be removed/reinstalled easily .
>
>under spring youll see a starwheel adjuster , this has a click stop
>adjustment and if you pry the lock spring using screwdriver you can
>rotate the starwheel .
>
>to lessen spring pressure effect of starwheel you will screw the
>starwheel in clockwise , but only about 1/2 turn at a time and noting
>smoke from exhaust [under load] after adjustment .
>
>to lessen spring effect you undo the starwheel .
>
>this starwheel alters the spring pressure against the diaphragm and
>alters where the turbo boost is allowed to move the diaphragm downwards
>to increase fuel flow .
>
>basically only minor adjustment of starwheel should need to be made ,
>if any adjustment .
>
>there is a white nylon spacer on the metering shaft and dont forget to
>make sure it is still fitted when refitting metering shaft/diaphragm
>and spring assembly , as it stops length of travel of metering shaft .
>
>the main adjustment that makes most difference is the full load
>adjustment on rear of pump , if unscrewed too far youll note lack of
>pull when in top gear at low [25mph ] speed when on flat road .
>
>hope that is easy enough to understand.
>
>ive been adjusting my pump for maximum economy , so all my adjustments
>have been in reverse .
> previous owner screwed everything IN , yes it went like stink but i
>only got 23mpg locally and lees on motorway driving .
>
>cheers , ian .
>
>
>
>
>
>.
