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Re: Engine ID
John wrote:
> "Maximillian Rennquist" <WDSPoontang@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1133752597.463250.73070@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> >
> > John wrote:
> >> $20K
> >
> > Back in the 70' there was a comapny named Speidel that used to make a
> > watch band called the Twist-o-Flex. This what we used to call the pre
> > 71 Mustangs. At 400 horsepower, you will begin to crack and separate
> > several areas in the chassis. This is where you begin.
>
> Sage advice. I seem to recall similar advice from a friend a couple years
> ago. Thanks. Something like sub-frame connectors, a G-load brace, and a
> strut tower brace should help.
>
> I'm not 100% sure what I'll do yet. I want to keep looking into what parts
> went into what I got first. Hey, didn't Ford start stamping the VIN number
> on the back of the block on the drivers side just below where the heads bolt
> on in 1968?
I don't recall. You can look for that but I still think the date code
near the oil filter adapter is much easier. I have no idea what a
G-load brace is for the old cars. Maybe that's what they call an export
brace these days. Is this a stick? What gears?
>
> --
> John
> '69 Mach 1 390 Toploader Acapulco Blue
> ThunderSnake #59
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