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Old 12-06-2005, 07:01   #4 (permalink)
walt peifer
 
Posts: n/a
Re: my 85 mustang "gremlin"


"trainfan1" <lmsearing@usdatanet.net> wrote in message
news:1sOdnYs5MPRxuwjeRVn-vA@usadatanet.net...
> stang85_5 wrote:
>> I have a 1985 mustang gt H.O. 4bbl and every time it starts getting warm
>> it
>> starts to cut out really bad and wants to die especially when I press on
>> the gas. I've replaced the fuel pump, plugs and wires, fuel filter, and
>> cleaned the carb but nothing works. A mechanic at my work said it might
>> be
>> the ignition module so i replaced that and it got better for about a week
>> and then started again. It seems to get worse each time I drive it. Do
>> you
>> think the problem is in the wiring to my ignition or is it something
>> else.
>> PLEASE HELP!!

>
> You've mentioned several carb issues - but not once addressed enrichment.
> How is the accel. pump & power valve?
>
> Rob


If the car starts and run fine when cool (had to tell from post) but starts
to perform poorly when warm to hot, there are several things to check:
1)thermal breakdown of original ford coil
2)excessive heat from from of motor boiling fuel in metal line at front of
motor.
3)thermostat not opening properly
4) EGR malfunction (bad gaskets or erosion of plate on back of motor)

the 85 4 bbl cars no the early CFI cars have no computer or brain box. just
simple duraspark coil and ignition module. Some of these vehicles have a hot
idle compensator ( small module on a vacuum line going to carb) that will
stick and make and engine run rich (black or gray smoke that makes eyes
water)

power valve and accelerator pump (small rubber diaphragm in front of carb)
will cause a stumble when accelerating, but car will run smooth at idle.

one last thing to check as some states/regions change fuel mixtures as
cool/cold weather approaches the small viton seal on the float bowl needle
and seat have been known to break down and either stick and starve the
engine or disappear and not seal thereby causing a rich condition.


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