On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 16:26:06 -0700, "66 6F HCS"
<69ta_mustang@comcast.net> wrote:
>I appreciate the help guys. I do have a monte carlo bar and export brace
>installed, though I didn't drive the car hardly at all before I installed
>them. I'm not sure what they did or how much they helped. I bought the good
>Scott Drake export brace and not the cheaper thinner version without the
>deep "waves" in it. The monte carlo bar is the one with the curve in it to
>go around the dizzy. I already have KYB gas-a-justs for the front, I
>honestly can't afford the Edelbrock IAS's though I WISH I could.
>
>I wasn't thinking of going with the 620 springs in front. I was thinking the
>bigger 750's or whatever it is. But I know that someone makes spec'd springs
>for the mustang based on what would have come from the factory. Is it
>correct that Ford had different springs for every car with every engine
>variant. That's gotta be hundreds of different springs. Maybe prings for a
>'69 convertible with AT and a 428? I'm assuming those would be the stiffest
>from the factory. Would this hold true at all 4 corners? What about the 5
>leaf rears from Mustangs Plus and their like.
PST (Performance Suspension Parts) for springs, etc. The main thing
is that new springs are not compressed with age, so you will have
original ride height back again if you go stock.
>
>Cash is a big issue for me and a neg wedge kit is out of the question. Is
>the 1" Shelby drop really THAT big an improvement? I need to replace my
>upper control arm ball joints anyway, so they have to be yanked for rebuild,
>so it would be a good time to do the drop when I have them off. How would
>you suggest the alignment be setup with or without the drop. I've heard
>that -1 camber will help cornering but is a bigger PITA in slow turns.
The template for the Cobra Drop is a free (IIRC) download of the
template from Tony Branda. The template will show you where the new
holes will go. The main thing is to use a solid plate to run the bolts
through in order to strengthen the mount location and avoid stress
cracks. Negative wedge kits didn't exist back when Shelby was doing
them.
>
>This car is going to be 99.9% street and .1% race. It'll see the quarter a
>few times in the summer, but rarely, and the circle drag races sound cool
>since it's a heads up single lap around a 3/4 mile oval track. Only 2 turns.
>I've thought of trying it just to see what it's like. My motor builder
>REALLY wants me to try it just to see what it'll do, and cause he built a
>good number of the race winning engines racing on that same track in the
>different NASCAR series. From the "Legends" to the NASCAR West late model
>series. He's got a reputation to uphold in the area as one of the best
>builders and a few wins in this completely amateur race series would put him
>in good for even more money next season. I'm sure you know how it works.
>Plus it sounds like a lot of fun and more fun than a straight quarter mile.
>I just don't want to throw this beast into a wall after all I've dumped into
>it.
>
>This car is a PITA on the street. sometimes when I'm trying to turn through
>an intersection, I've almost ended up on the sidewalk a couple times since
>it pushes so badly, and the "Swedish Flick" is frowned upon on public roads;
>at least around here anyways. Heh :)
I put in a Flaming River 16:1 steering box. No complaints. It's
strictly manual, which takes some effort, and it's an adjustment of
slowing down until I get to the point where I can install rack &
pinion or a power steering system.
>
>I currently have two sets of wheels I could use with this car. I have a set
>of Minilite copies from Western Wheel. A pair of 15x7 and a pair of 15x8. I
>also have a set of Centerline Convo Pro's. All are 15x7. The fake minilites
>looks WAYYYYY better than the Convo Pro's, but I can't afford another set of
>matching wheels. I'd like tires that'll grip well, but won't completely kill
>my low speed issues since I don't have PS. Since this will be mostly street,
>should I stay with the skinnier tires (225 to 235)? At least on front. I
>know the more rubber to the ground in front the less understeer will be a
>problem. But the wider I go the harder the wheel will be to turn and the car
>will "track" on the highways in the ruts.
I use and like the 225s I have on mine.
>
>I have a complete PS system for a '69 from the pump to the "rack" or
>whatever it was called back then, including drum brake spindles. I also have
>the drop bracket for exhaust clearance. Should I go ahead and install this
>system? Would there be issues using the non PS steering box with the PS
>setup? I've heard there was no difference between the PS and non-PS steering
>boxes in '69. True???
--
Spike
1965 Ford Mustang Fastback 2+2, Vintage Burgundy
w/Black Std Interior, A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok;
Vintage 40 16" rims w/225/50ZR16 KDWS BF Goodrich
gForce Radial T/As, Cobra drop; surround sound
audio-video...
See my ride at....
Feb 2004-
http://207.36.208.198/albums/86810/003_May_21_3004.jpg
Feb 2004-
http://207.36.208.198/albums/86810/005_May_21_2004.jpg
Jul 2005-
http://207.36.208.198/albums/86810/d..._11_05_002.jpg
Jul 2005-
http://207.36.208.198/albums/86810/E...ebuild_006.jpg
