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Hydraulic roller cam? experiences?

3K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  azza 
#1 ·
I've been speaking with Phil from surecam about a hyd roller to suit the 3V's that I will be using in the future.

We are looking at a camshaft range of 3 to 6000rpm, with limiter at 6850rpm.

Aiming to make about 1150FWHP with 15 to 20psi from a significantly bigger turbo than the 45R I have now, either a PT94 or an S95.

Now I know the hyd roller prob won't ring out as hard as the solid flat tappet I have now, but I wanted something that would be able to do heaps of cruising without even having to think about maintennace.

Anyone have any experience with hyd rollers? did you use oem ford lifters or aftermarket?

I was hoping to have 150 on the seat and 350 on the nose, not sure if the oem lifters will handle this???
 
#2 ·
LTD351V2 said:
I've been speaking with Phil from surecam about a hyd roller to suit the 3V's that I will be using in the future.

We are looking at a camshaft range of 3 to 6000rpm, with limiter at 6850rpm.

Aiming to make about 1150FWHP with 15 to 20psi from a significantly bigger turbo than the 45R I have now, either a PT94 or an S95.

Now I know the hyd roller prob won't ring out as hard as the solid flat tappet I have now, but I wanted something that would be able to do heaps of cruising without even having to think about maintennace.

Anyone have any experience with hyd rollers? did you use oem ford lifters or aftermarket?

I was hoping to have 150 on the seat and 350 on the nose, not sure if the oem lifters will handle this???

Are you planning on using the standard clevo block?
 
#7 ·
LTD351V2 said:
Aiming to make about 1150FWHP ................

Anyone have any experience with hyd rollers? did you use oem ford lifters or aftermarket?
you will have to use the link bar style aftermarket lifters.... they are a lot more expensive than oem spider type!!

if your aiming for that sort of fwhp, then don't skimp on parts!!
 
#8 ·
For that kind of HP id go solid roller, either way roller cams add a lot of cost.
Hyd cams are for mildish type motors, solid offers far better valve control and much better grind selection.
 
#9 ·
xrgt said:
you will have to use the link bar style aftermarket lifters.... they are a lot more expensive than oem spider type!!

if your aiming for that sort of fwhp, then don't skimp on parts!!
The world block I have will accept std ford lifters, did you mention the link bars because of my HP target? or do you think that the ford parts won't hold up?
 
#10 ·
4Vman said:
For that kind of HP id go solid roller, either way roller cams add a lot of cost.
Hyd cams are for mildish type motors, solid offers far better valve control and much better grind selection.
Yeah but with a turbo you don't need to use high rpm or large duration cams, just run a bit more spring and a lil extra pressure on the exhaust seat.

A 302 with an F303 std lifters and an 88mm can make over 1100RW under 6000rpm. I just wan't something like that, less power but no maintennance and low rpm.

Just got prices on the F303 and all the parts I would need to convert, 783$ delivered.
 
#11 ·
LTD351V2 said:
Yeah but with a turbo you don't need to use high rpm or large duration cams, just run a bit more spring and a lil extra pressure on the exhaust seat.

A 302 with an F303 std lifters and an 88mm can make over 1100RW under 6000rpm. I just wan't something like that, less power but no maintennance and low rpm.

Just got prices on the F303 and all the parts I would need to convert, 783$ delivered.
True, but with that much hp its going to chew bearings, rings and valve springs at an alarming rate, the difference in cost between hyd and solid wouldnt be much in the scheme of things as its going to need a rebuild every 2000km's anyway!!!
 
#12 ·
4Vman said:
True, but with that much hp its going to chew bearings, rings and valve springs at an alarming rate, the difference in cost between hyd and solid wouldnt be much in the scheme of things as its going to need a rebuild every 2000km's anyway!!!
Yeah I guess, but with the super thumper (maybe 91mm) I plan on using once I fit the new CHI 3V top end, the motor won't see boost very often, I agree that when it is making power the rings/bearings will be taking a hammering, but the valves shouldn't, RPM will be below 6500 hopefully.

I think the hyd roller camshaft will be more reliable over my flat tappet solid I'm just a bit worried that the std ford roller lifters won't like the 140-150 seat pressure that I will need on the exhaust side. I think the intakes will be OK at 140 seat but the exhaust will need more, 140-350intake but maybe 145/150-350 exhaust.

I guess I just have to decide what spring pressure I want, so John can build the heads to suit.
 
#13 ·
LTD351V2 said:
The world block I have will accept std ford lifters, did you mention the link bars because of my HP target? or do you think that the ford parts won't hold up?
are you going to use a retro fit kit?

don't know if they'll hold up or not, anything is possible.....

Have you checked out anderson motorsport for camshaft and matching springs? they'll have exactly what your looking for....

good luck
 
#14 ·
xrgt said:
are you going to use a retro fit kit?

don't know if they'll hold up or not, anything is possible.....

Have you checked out anderson motorsport for camshaft and matching springs? they'll have exactly what your looking for....

good luck
nah haven't checked anderson motorsport, I've been speaking with Phil at surecam and John at chi, For now all I need to decide is what spring pressures to use.

I don't think I need the retrofit kit as my block has the facilities for the valley tray hold down.
 
#16 ·
azza said:
Go solid roller to get everything opening and closing quicker.
AZZA
RPM isn't that important, I'm after a decent mileage setup nice manners and no maintennance, I know a properly set up solid roller may only need minor adjustments but they just don't do the miles.

A 302 with an 88mm and a plain old F303 can make 1100+RWHP through a glide under 6000rpm, I see no need for solid roller, I'm after less power than that.
 
#17 ·
Personaly, i wouldnt want to risk a lifter failure which could hold a valve open and kiss the piston just for the sake of running hydraulic. Solids are not that heavy on maintenance and if more boost will be applied later a spring with more pressure will be needed anyway. If it were my engine id go the solid no question. It realy comes back to how comfortable you are with settn tappets. I enjoy it, good time to feel how the engines turning aswell, make sure its not gettn tight. Either way it will be killer!!!

Just my thoughts

Cheers

Brett
 
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