Ford Forum Ford Forum

ยป Wheel & Tire Center

» Sponsors
» Sponsors
Go Back   Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks and Cars
Register Home Forum Active Topics Photo Gallery Mark Forums Read

Please Visit our Site Sponsors

FordForums.com is the premier Ford Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
View Single Post
Old 06-29-2009, 19:49   #1 (permalink)
hurk
Registered User
 
hurk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 48
2002 XLS 2.0L I4 Maintenance Info

2002 Ford Escape XLS 2.0L I4 5-spd manual

Oil change:
Castrol Syntec 5W-20 (meets the Ford specification)
Mobile 1 Synthetic 5W-20
Mobile 1 Synthetic 5W-30 during Summer.
Motorcraft oil filter: FL-400S (listed in owner's manual)
Motorcraft oil filter: FL-2005
Oil drain plug: 13mm wrench or socket. 18-ft/lbs.
Access is from the front of vehicle - the bolt faces towards the rear of the car.
Fram oil filter wrench: F1102 (74-76mm) Use with a 3/8 ratchet or 1" wrench.
(note: fram oil filters are consistantly rated poor in comparison tests. However, I like their filter wrench. O-Reilly's sells a Pennzoil wrench that's similar)

Manual transmission fluid (gear oil):
Motorcraft 75W-90 GL-4.
Royal Purple 75W-90 GL-4 It is non-corrosive to the yellow/soft metal parts & meets the Ford specification. 2.7L or 2.85 qts.
Filler plug bolt: 23mm socket wrench. 20-ft/lbs
Drain plug bolt: 23mm socket wrench & short extension. 35-ft/lbs
Remove the driver's side lower plastic shroud for easier access. I did not remove one screw that's located in the driver's side wheel well. I was able to squirt the gear oil into the filler hole without using a funnel or anything. I bought a screw-on filler tube, but it gets kinked when being routed. I'll fix that next time, so that the gear oil can be added more easily.
Gear Oil Note: The gear oil needs to meet the GL-4 specification which is non-corrosive to the soft/yellow metal parts (brass bushings, etc). GL-4 gear oil is surprisingly hard to find in Houston. I was hoping to use Valvoline or Pennzoil, but the Royal Purple was the only thing available. I called Pennzoil & was lucky enough to talk to someone there at length, but to no avail. The Royal Purple seems kinda gimmicky, but I got tired of looking: the car was due for a fluid change & I didn't want to waste any more time sourcing a product.

Air filter:
Motorcraft FA-1683
Fram CA8997
Wix 42385 (not positive on fitment - just cross-referenced)
The old filter had been damaged by the previous installer. I had to straighten one of the housing clamps.

Cabin Air Filter:
MicroGard GA20070
Wix 42136 (not positive on fitment - just cross-referenced)
My Escape did not have the filter. A number of other models don't have it either.
Here's a how-to for installing or replacing one: Tribute/Escape Cabin Air Filter.

Fuel Filter:
Motorcraft FG-800-A
Fram G3892A
Wix 33007 (not positive on fitment - just cross-referenced)
The Chilton manual has a procedure for relieving the fuel pressure. simple.
Raising the car a few inches is necessary to access the clips - don't damage them.
To elevate my car, I drive up onto solid concrete blocks - flat pavers from the HomeDepot.
The clips are hard to access & have some tabs that need to be spread open so that they can be removed. There are two sizes - the smaller ones are available at the auto parts store in the miscellaneous car parts/hardware section.

Spark Plugs:
Motorcraft AZFS-32FE. Torque to 132-Inch/lbs (~11-ft/lbs) 0.050" gap (1.30mm).
Autolite APP5364 Double Platinum
Autolite XP5364 Iridium Fine Wire 0.6mm
If a spark plug is removed & reused, it MUST be reinstalled into the same cylinder.
(note: Champions may not be a good choice - the ceramic on them has a tendency to crack)

Cooling System Flush:
Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant (Green)
System capacity is 5.3 qts (50/50 mix of coolant & distilled water).
Radiator drain valve: 19mm socket or wrench
Radiator drain valve tubing: ~9mm ID or ~3/8" ID
Radiator upper nipple: ~37mm OD (this should be the same as the radiator hose ID).
Engine block coolant drain plug: T40 Torx wrench
Thermostat housing screws: T25 Torx wrench. 89-Inch/lbs
Temporarily remove the thermostat so that the sytem can be flushed.
Reinstall w a new seal (replace the thermostat if necessary).
I fabbed a water hose setup & connected it to the upper radiator nipple to flush the cooling system. I also rigged a swimming pool hose to the disconnected radiator/thermostat-housing hose so that the old coolant could be collected more effectively & so that the clean water could be directed to the lawn. I used two 2.5 gal jugs of distilled water as a final rinse.

Throttle body, air intake duct & MAF sensor service:
Removed the air intake duct to service these parts.
Used CRC MAF sensor cleaner & CRC throttle body cleaner (teflon/coating safe).
Do not use carb cleaner. Use care when cleaning these components. Do not touch the MAF sensor & only use the specific spray cleaner for it. The throttle body & throttle plate have a coating on them: only use a cleaner spray that's coating safe. If necessary, lightly & carefully brush the throttle body w a soft toothbrush.

Wiper blades:
If your wiper blades seem small, measure them w a tape measure & look at the amount of sweep on the windshield, then measure to see if longer blades can be installed.
I got longer blades for much better coverage: 20" (actual size is 19-3/4").

Center console:
Disassembled & cleaned the center console, shifter boot & parking brake boot.
Very easy. Also, lubricated the shifter at the base - it had an audible vibration.
Bare metal is under the console. It might be a good idea to add some sound insulation under there.

Odometer bulb:
Ford bulb F8RZ-13B765-BA (part number from another forum)
Apparently, it's common for the odo bulb to burn out. It's supposed to be an easy fix, but I haven't gotten around to doing it yet. Not sure if a bulb can be purchased at the auto parts store. The bulb might be a #37 or #74.

Repair Manual:
I've been using the Chilton Manual, but it seems to cover the 6-cylinder engine more thoroughly... in regards to the photos anyway. It might be a better idea to get the Ford Shop Manual. Also, I use the Ford Owner's Manual as a reference.

Valve Clearance Check:
See a mechanic or reference the manual.
A Ford valve spring compressor tool is needed to change the shims.
Ford service tool part number: 303-350 (from the Chilton manual).
Use of the tool is recommended. It bolts to the cylinder head.

Headlight Upgrade:
See links in post #2 - Lock up??

Other stuff: replace brake fluid, replace power steering fluid, clean IAC.
hurk is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.1.0

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 00:31.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.