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Alternator/battery Problem!

4K views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  tbird100636 
#1 ·
Hi All, came across your web site today really need some help! now just to warn you i am a girl and not a petrol head girl so bare with me! any replies i get here will go by my dad and brother so go ahead with the techno stuff if needed!

So the problem...........V6 2.5 Ltr 1998 Cougar.......thought it was first the battery that was the issue but replaced that in the last week, and its still happening. The car has also had a new alternator on about 3 weeks ago as we thought that was the issue too. Now the light DOESNT come on the dash board when the car is started up? Every 3 to 4 days the car wont start, so a jump start and all is well for a few days and it dies again......i know you will need more information but just not too sure what without writing war and peace!! if i leave it at that and will come back and check, your best to ask me stuff and i will try and answer.... think that would be best

Also every now and then get odd black bits coming through the fan heater?

Few things by Dad thinks....

1) Engine Management System
2) Fan belt
3) the main thing really just Alternator could be dodgy or not fitted properly?

Thanks so much for your help.....i would like to maybe know a little before walking into Ford as £££££ i know it will be! Also be interesting if my local garage could do anything that i would have to take it to ford

Thank you peeps and i will pop back soon to see if any clever peeps have replied :)
 
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#3 ·
Hi.
Unfortunately the battery is probably bad if the alternator is charging the car. The voltage should read 14 to 14.5 volts. The shunt modification at the alternator should have been done at the time of alternator removal ( it is an extra wire run from the large red lead to the small red lead of the plug to the alternator). The battery has an intermittent connection between the plates inside the battery.
 
#4 ·
If the battery keeps going dead, and your charging voltage at the battery when running is 13.5 - 14.6 volts, then the next thing to check is Ignition Off Draw. Something is staying on somehow and drawing on the battery. Using the Amps or A setting on your multimeter, start by having the windows wide open, so you can slip into the car without opening the doors, since this will turn the dome lights on and increase the amp reading. Now, loosen the negative battery cable clamp, clip the positive lead of the multimeter to the negative cable clamp. Now, while sliding the negative cable clamp off of the negative battery post, clamp the negative lead of the multimeter to the negative battery post. Fully remove the negative cable clamp from the negative post.

Let the car sit for 10-15 minutes, then check the multimeter amp reading. You should have no more than 0.035 A. Any more indicates something is staying on. There can be OBDII monitors for the engine management that stay on for a bit, then shut off when complete. So after a half hour to 45 minutes, recheck the reading. If it's still high, start by checking that no interior lights are staying on. Next, have a wiring diagram for the car handy, and start gradually removing fuses until the draw is gone. Find the fuse that eliminates the draw, then using the wiring diagram find out what it feeds (provides power for). Then you would re-install the fuse, and disconnect each component until the draw eliminates.

Questions???
 
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