Hello Everyone.
I have a 2004 Crown Vic Lx.
It has sat all winter. When i went to start her , she went into the PATS mode. The theft light is blinking in a fast mode
I replaced the battery. I check the transceiver for loose or broken wires.
I don't know what happened. I could sure use some advice instead of going to the dealer.:driver:
not sure with the usa fords but our cars here in oz sometimes lost pats what we could do sometimes to fix it was turn the key to ignition on postion for 30 minutes and this seem to work.
Thank you all that is trying to help me. I am at my wit's end with this problem.
I also am receiving a message when i try to scan the pcm ....LINK ERROR.
What is this ?
I have the same problem. Pats light and check engine light flash. I also cannot get a Ford NGS scanner to connect. I swaped the pcm and I know that the pats light would flash since I don't have a key for that PCM but why would the check enigine light flash also. It is obvious it is not a PCM problem with mine.
If there is a link error, all feeds and earths to the PCM must be checked.
Sometimes sitting all winter makes fuses/connections oxidise and lose their continuity. Even battery connections can create a high resistance.
I usually pull/check all fuses first and clean the battery terminals.
keep it simple first.
I cleaned and check all the fuses. I replaced the negitive Batt cable to engine. Cleaned all I could clean, I even installed a new battery, and a new transceiver....
Is there any other grounds to check etc....
if your problem is the same as mine the wire I e-mailed you about is the 12v for the pats system and communication from the PCM. I could not get communication/connection to my ford NGS scanner also.
This is in regards to my post about my 2004 Crown Victoria LX Sport that would not start after sitting all winter. The PATS light was blinking fast, I had some to no communication with the DATA link. The starter would turn the engine over and then it would not. I replaced the PATS transceiver under the dash, replaced the car battery. Tested all the sensors. I even purchased two different PCM'S ..With no progress I was ready to give up ......But because of a person I never meet in my life helped me to solve my problem . HERE IS THE FIX
After reading the above you now know what i went thru.
The wiring harness on this car was made in MEXICO.
They must of had a problem with making a cut or slit in the PCM WIRE.
The wire corroded making the PCM and the DATA LINK loose contact.
Pull the front bumper cover off the car. Pull the wiring harness plastic tubing holder out after unbolting two 10mm bolts. Open up the wiring harness taking the tape off. Watch out for the gallon of WATER that will fall out. These harnesses are not water proof. Inspect the YELLOW/BLACK STRIPE WIRE FACTORY SPLICE by the drivers front fender. Check it for corrosion . I cut mine out and re made a better splice...Ok...After this I still was not getting no contact. I followed the YELLOW/BLACK STRIPE WIRE because there was no conntinunity.
I removed the car Battery, removed the battery holding box, I also turned the junction fuse box by the battery upside down took the cover off to check the YELLOW/BLACK STRIPED wire. Use jumper wire to batt to battery terminals...I had juice under the junction box on the YELLOW/BLACK STRIPED WIRE.....So I kept going down the wiring harness by the battery area and there is was....I pulled on that YELLOW /BLACK STRIPE WIRE and it BROKE in two...full of GREEN CORROSION...So I used a WATER SEAL BUTT CONNECTOR HEAT SHRINK...(Harbor Freight Tools)...First I put heat shrink tubing down the wire. Used the butt connectors, slid the heat shrink tubing in place and use a lighter to heat it up (BE CAREFUL NOT TO HEAT OTHER WIRES)....Then I used liquid tape to seal the ends of the heat shrink tubing..then I wrapped it all with electrical tape....Now it's all WATER TIGHT.....The car started right up after putting the battery back in place....Please email me if you have any questions..I had to share this info for others having the same trouble...
Thanks to.......GLENN-HO for helping me on this fourm
And to all the other people who also gave there input and shared there knowledge.:driver:
Short answer NO...I took the front bumper cover off.I found the Y/BK wire..12V from underhood fuse box to pcm..I found the factory splice.The splice is good. I opened the splice anyway and respliced it.I inspected and pulled the wire.I couldn't find any corrosion..Used my VOM..Voltage and continuity all along the wire..I still can't get the car to start..
My question to redwil and glenn-ho.."did you have voltage and continuity on that wire before you fixed it??
I have a feeling that this is going to cost me a fortune if I bring it to the dealer...I'm going to send it to a reputable mechanic's shop and hope for the best..I really was hoping that I would find corrosion or a break on the pcm power wire..:frown2:
I have found with phantom electrical gremlins the dealer can be your best friend. After trying everything within reason that comes to mind, that $80.00 or so the dealer will charge to diagnosis an issue can be money well spent. For me, anytime my car is down it's money lost. I'd gladly pay a Ford mechanic to give me a quick and PROPER solution to an issue. 9 times out of 10, the average guy will easily spend that $100 trying various possibilities anyway. Why not just get it over with and quickly? As for local mechanics they are fine, but the Ford dealer has assets at Ford directly. Should the dealership mech not able get to the root of the problem they can call Ford Corp. and pick the minds of the tech reps in Detroit. All shops charge nearly the same hourly rate anyway so why not spend it on mechanics who specialize in the product you own? Just my thoughts.
I had the same problem, but there really was no problem. The problem was me the driver. It seems the glove box key and ignition key are cut the same. They are the same except for the PATS programing chip. I accidentally was using the glove box key to start the engine. It would crank and crank the red light flashing like crazy, but no start. After I realized my key mistake and started using the correct key, It starts and runs normally. Needless to say, after that I threw the glove box key in the trash.
I would be more than happy to pay $100 to the Ford dealer for a diagnosis....I'll check with my local dealer...I didn't think they did anything for $100...I have to have the car towed there..No problem..I have AAA....After the diagnosis,depending on the result,I guess I would have to have it towed home or to a repair shop....Great idea IF ford will diagnose for $100...
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