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Fuel pumps shutting off, losing fuel pressure on highway

5K views 34 replies 6 participants last post by  CatSkinner 
#1 ·
Well, I just started a new thread. This is what i have replaced so far.

Fuel pressure regulator
cleaned IAC valve
Replaced tank selector switch
battery
Cap
Rotor
plugs, wires
Ignition switch
starter
alternator
Cleaned intake manifold, replaced gaskets
Relays replaced

These are my problems.

My truck has two fuel pumps, the symptoms happen on both tanks. My truck will run fine all day, run for hours. it seems like it only happens when my truck is warm. I will be driving on the highway and ill feel my truck jerk, the CEL will emit, but i still have power steering and braking, i floor it, and the light goes off, and jumps back into gear, this happened twice on the highway yesterday.

The truck will be running at a stoplight, and be fine, no bogging, and out of nowhere just shut off. The truck will not start up again. I have learned to not try and crank the engine at all, and let it sit with the key in the "on position" and if its quiet enough, after about 10 or 15 minutes the fuel pumps turn on, and it starts fine.

And here is my other problem, i can drive it all day, or up the street for 10 minutes, and when i shut off my truck and come back out to start it the engine cranks but no fire, and i let it sit again with the key "on" and the relays click over and it can start.

Yesterday the highway problems happened after my truck shut off at a stop 20 minutes prior. I washed my truck through an automatic wash and the engine light came on, and has been on for a day, sounded like water in the exhaust, but when my truck shut off the CEL was on, and after waiting for the 15 minutes for the relays to come on, the truck started and the engine light was off and has not come back on, I don't know if its a coincidence, or my computer resets after the truck fails, as stated before, this isnt my first thread on the same problem, but here is the list of what i have replaced and tried, Thanks Ford Forums, you guys are awsome.
 
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#9 ·
Your barking up the wrong tree. Unless you fired the wash wand up your exhaust pipe
there is no water in the exhaust. At least you described the problem properly. good for you. Most Some people just yell HELP. Don't have time for that. The check engine light will normally come on after an engine stall or at first start up. Normal. Quit spending money on stuff that will not help you. You are describing a sparatic complete power failure. Battery and alternator. Main power supply. As it cools it reconnects and away it goes. " only happens when the truck gets warm " . That is when things get hot. as in
wiring and connectors. Your computer turns on your fuel pumps and keeps them running. You might want to check that curcuit first. Don't put in a new engine just because someone forgot to put gas in the tank.
 
#10 ·
I run at least half a tank. And the problem is never expected. Now it happens hot or cold. The car wash was an automatic car wash ad only happens when I go into an automatic at wash. I think the pitch of the exhaust is wrong because I hear the water inside the pipe. When te truck runs I move every harness to every major device ad nothing happens. I cannot re-create the problem. I am wondering if my stat is sticking, or my temp sensor is wrong. The sensor in the block only activates the guage.
So my questions are as follows:
Is there an electronic temp sensor besides the one that screws into the block by the distributor?

Is it possible the thermostat gets stuck open or closed? In my other post I stated I pulled my radiator plug, and nothing came out. My coolant is orange. And I'm wondering if I should flush the system out and replace the stat.

Lastly, there was a bypass for the throttle body put on te truck for a temp guage (aftermarket) this was on when the truck was purchased. Is there a sensor that has to be satisfied in the throttle body for coolant? Thanks for all the help. I'm getting closer


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#11 ·
Cant remember what your car details are . On most cars there is a engine coolant temp sensor that lets the ECU know how much fuel to supply .But all depends on your car , year etc .If the thermostat jammed shut you would boil over in no time . If jammed open it will run cold .I've had auto car washes in different garages and NEVER had that problem with water in the exhaust .Any water that did get in would soon be blown out the back box or evaporate with the heat unless it is at a really crazy angle to let water in .
 
#12 ·
The whole thing about the exhaust was just saying there was a CEL on and it went off after the truck didn't start. And I'm going to try the TFI first. I turned off my truck to vacuum it out, went to start it and it didnt startagain. I waited. And it started. I drove 15 miles, dropped someone off at work and as soon as I stopped it shut off. And I tried to start it right away and it started right away. And there was no problem after.


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#13 ·
So today I bought a new TFI module, the thing that connects to the middle of the cap and rotor. And now my truck wont start, this morning the truck didnt start for a longer period of time. Got back to it hours later and started fine, and drove it to auto zone and then bought the TFI. got home, replaced that, and another fuse that was blown, a 10amp fuse, i think it was 8, or 7. but now it will not start, i turn the ignition all the way up, and jump the solenoid and i see the rotor spin. I am pretty sure i can hear my pumps. After class today im going to buy a can of starter fluid, and find out once and for all if its a fuel issue or spark. If its a spark issue what does everyone suggest i go to replace first? i did the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and now the TFI. Ill send a message back after trying the starter fluid.
 
#15 ·
Im afraid to ask what his soft parts are.. I have no other direction to run to. i havent replaced my fuel inertia switch, my cap and rotor are spinning, maybe my coolant sensor? i finially found there is another sensor that screws into the block, and has a clip that clips on, i have no idea where this is, but i looked into my radiator today, and it was nearly half full, my resivoir is green, but my coolant in my radiator is orange, i poured antifreeze into it and filled to the top, and i watched it gurgle the antifreeze down, im starting to think this is either a spark issue, or a temp issue. Does a coolant sensor have the power to shut off fuel or spark? im going to buy a new coolant sensor and spark plug, if my truck doesnt start, im going to try starter spray or the plug for spark
 
#17 ·
My radiator was half full, my overflow or whatever it's called was fine. The overflow is green like its supposed to be. By everything inside my radiator is nasty. Where are possible places my antifreeze could leak into my intake? My oil is perfectly clean. And never cloudy or doesn't smell weird.

What could I put into my radiator to flush it out?

Where are locations where antifreeze could leak into my intake?




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#18 ·
My radiator was half full, my overflow or whatever it's called was fine. The overflow is green like its supposed to be. By everything inside my radiator is nasty. Where are possible places my antifreeze could leak into my intake? My oil is perfectly clean. And never cloudy or doesn't smell weird.

What could I put into my radiator to flush it out?

Where are locations where antifreeze could leak into my intake?



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#19 ·
My radiator was half full, my overflow or whatever it's called was fine. The overflow is green like its supposed to be. By everything inside my radiator is nasty. Where are possible places my antifreeze could leak into my intake? My oil is perfectly clean. And never cloudy or doesn't smell weird.

What could I put into my radiator to flush it out?

Where are locations where antifreeze could leak into my intake?

When I try to start my truck and it doesn't start I've noticed my oil guage goes up to normal range then down then up, it moves pretty erratic, I don't know if that means anything, but I'm giving you guys everything I can


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#20 ·
Your rad may be partially blocked . Running with a half full rad certainly wont help matters . Pull a hose at bottom and stick in a water hose up top to flush out cooling system , or reverse flush . Then when clear , refill , run and top up coolant .If needed bleed system .
 
#21 ·
I will, today my truck broke down yet again, I sprayed starter fluid in the middle of the street, and the truck barely started but was knocking very hard and died. My dad and I pushed it to the parking lot, and we went I work. We came back 5 or 6 hrs later and it started fine and drove it home. I purchased a oil temp sensor and the coolant sensor, I unplugged the oil temp sensor to try and replace it and I have to remove the oil filter to get at it. I'll let you guys know what happens tonight after I replace the sensors.

Is it possible to read oil on the dipstick with being low on oil? Like a full oil reading with low oil? I changed my oil last month and it read full, but barely got 3 quarts out


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#22 ·
Was only able to remove my coolant temp sensor under my throttle body. Not the one that's by my distributor. Checked my antifreeze again and it was a little low again. I pulled off my filter and not a lot of oil came out. So after work I'm going to pick up 2 quarts of oil and pour them in and see what happens. But when I was unscrewing the sensor half of it snapped and broke as soon as I started unscrewing it.

Also, when my truck was running when I pulled it into my garage I unplugged the oil pressure sensor and the truck kept running fine. So I don't know what to do from here. Maybe my ignition control module? Maybe my neutral safety switch?


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#23 ·
Just bought a flush and antifreeze. I started my truck and was letting it idle in my driveway for an hour, this is the kind that's only water and the flush inside after you drain te old stuff. It ran for almost an hour and a half perfect, and I went outside to check it and its dead again. Won't start. Nothing as usual. So back to the drawing board


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#24 ·
Did you recheck coolant level after thermostat had opened and top up if needed ?Leaving it to idle for an hour and a half is a bit excessive especially if coolant had dropped .Did you open the heater control to hot setting to get the water to circulate and check if heat coming out ? When you say dead again , not turning over engine ? or no ignition / lights ?
 
#26 ·
I was digging around and found out there is a recall on the ICM. Ignition control modules. I don't know where mine is, but if it is grey then I guess it needs to be replaced, also there is a common problem with a harness inside of the distributor, it's a 6 pin harness for the PIP I think?

Yes I checked the coolant levels and filled the system after it ran and bled the air out. And yes the heat was on full blast to circulate. I pulled my MAF sensor and so far, knock on wood, it's been starting everytime, I drove it up te street to get gas and wash it.

My next purchase will be the wiring harness inside of the distributor, I think it's about 50$? I guess someone else was having my symptoms also, and they replaced this and the truck is fine now.


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