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2 VK's vs EA Round 2

5K views 26 replies 18 participants last post by  bertson265 
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#1 · (Edited)
Last night me and two mates who both own VK commodores went racing again. One of the Vk's is a manual with extractors and exhaust, the other has extractors is a Auto and 350 Holley Carby on it. My car has 2.5 zorst, XR6 Cam and pod filter.

Well they are both STILL beating my ass off to 60-70km. In the first few seconds of take off I'm standing there looking stupid, while they are about 15 meters down the road. Then the ford power kicks in at around the 70km mark and by about 100km, I've overtaken both of them.

Now this absolutely annoys me that they get so much of a lead at the start. I got a Auto, is there anything other then a manual conversionthat will fix this lag at the start? Cheers
 
#2 ·
donuts2003 said:
Last night me and two mates who both own VK commodores went racing again. One of the Vk's is a manual with extractors and exhaust, the other has extractors is a manual and 350 Holley Carby on it. My car has 2.5 zorst, XR6 Cam and pod filter.

Well they are both STILL beating my ass off to 60-70km. In the first few seconds of take off I'm standing there looking stupid, while they are about 15 meters down the road. Then the ford power kicks in at around the 70km mark and by about 100km, I've overtaken both of them.

Now this absolutely annoys me that they get so much of a lead at the start. I got a Auto, is there anything other then a manual conversionthat will fix this lag at the start? Cheers
i take it u got a 3 speed auto?..maybe a change in diff ratio..i dunno..or 4 speed auto
 
#3 ·
Of course, this was on private property....

A manual conversion would be a big help, as well as a diff change.

Also, did you 'stage' at the start ie: Foot hard on the brake, foot on the throttle, keep accelerating until the car starts to wheelspin or creep forward, then back off slightly. This makes a huge difference
 
#6 ·
EDXR8 said:
I wouldn't have thought the VK's had any chance at any stage of the race.
I would think the same, but my brother's first car was a VK. It had extractors and exhaust and used to hammer - even for an auto. I think the fuel injected ones go a lot harder.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
It's a 4 speed Auto, round one was with a 3 speed Auto without any mods(they were about 20+ meters ahead then with my car only catching up really late with the 3speed). Oh yeah I forgot to mention I don't have any extractors, but I don't think will help me too much.

I don't think my car is a bad performer for an EA, as i've driven 2 other EA's(one manual with sick motor) and my car seems faster then them however the manual was defiantely better in the 0-40km.

Also there is no point stalling the tranny up as it wants to start moving around the 1000RPM mark and I don't want to put too much strain on the tranny.

Can I assume the EA's don't have much torque/kw down low in the RPM range? Maybe as qwik said I need a higher stall convertor. My diff is a 3.23 but is clunky, so I might look into replacing that as well.

I want to make sure I kick their asses by round 3, I'm sick of losing in the lower speeds.. they think Fords suck and I gotta stick it up them.

Oh yeah, oops I wrote that both were manual... one of the VK's was a Auto, the one with the extractors and holley.
 
#9 ·
without going the manual route, the diff is really what needs doing.
also extractors will help a little.
 
#10 ·
extractors will definately help, seeingst you have the xr6 cam. and are you applying the brakes when stalling the transmission up? you shouldnt have the car trying to move until 1500rpm or so... stalling it up will definately help you get off the line quicker.

can i ask how you went from 3spd to 4spd? was the car originally 3 or 4spd?

diff ratio is also a big player.

Jase
 
#11 ·
my eb cfi is the same mate. its really slow at take off and my mates think its piss poor but i know if i keep going it can win, but its a bit annoying being left behind alot. it may sound dumb if i ask what stalling the transmission is? mwhaha i dont know what it is... what a spastic. my eb is having some trouble in the fan belt area...its really ****in noisy when turning corners and when starting it up its really loud and screamy. ive chucked two of them now. they both snapped. whats going on??!! also i cant keep taking it to the dealer i got it from everytime its gonna happen so can someone tell me how to do it so i can do it myself
 
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#12 ·
can i ask how you went from 3spd to 4spd? was the car originally 3 or 4spd?
The car was a factory 4 speed, but the last owner must have had the box shit itself, so he replaced it with the cheaper 3 speed. I had the car for about a year with the 3 speed in it, before deciding to get a 4 speed auto for it. Anyone know a guesstimate price for a 3.45 ratio rebuild of my diff, or a XR6 Diff?

my eb is having some trouble in the fan belt area...its really ****in noisy when turning corners and when starting it up its really loud and screamy. ive chucked two of them now. they both snapped.
Sounds like you are doing your fan belt up way too tight, but your power steering belt is loose.
 
#13 ·
Stalling the auto, is simply that in an auto you have a stall converter, the idea being that it free wheels at what is set at, most stock auto's this about 1500rpm at about 1500rpm it locks up and delivers all engine power without slipping.
So by planting your foot on the brake, and the other on the accelator till you get to 1500rpm you are ready for all possible power to be feed to the rear wheels as fast as possible.

Hence you launch quicker, faster, and if done right without wheelspin, and you are closer to winning the race sooner :0)

Dellboy999
 
#15 ·
yeah sorry i didnt mean to say that it was literally chucking the belts it was snapping them i was just saying chucking for an expression or some shite. Its the belt that must control the alternator and the water pump or something like that coz when it snapped both times the battery light has come on and it has overheated. Its getting looked at overnight tonight under warranty because its getting pretty annoying and im getting the heater looked at and the fan because the fan makes really bad noises and the heater never really heats. i put a new head unit in and got a mate to wire it up and damn it sounds great. its a sansui 4 by 45 watts with kenwood 6by 9's in the back and it really pumps its great! now i need some mags! (and more power!)
 
#17 · (Edited)
Donuts, if i were you id ge a higher converter, 8-1000rpm higher than standard. That wont place too much strain on the other bits.
Also i better diff like 3.7 or 4.11, bit expensive but.
I think ones out of a pintara might fit(???)

And do the electric shift kit mod. wont help take off but will change alot faster. go to mechanicalforums.com(.au??). If that isnt the right address, look at '9psi's signature as it it/was there.



Jase
 
#18 ·
i gave the transmission stall a go it seems to work ok but i dont have a rev meter so i have no idea when it gets to 1500..is there another way to tell when all the power is at the rear wheels or just when it starts to spin? roughly how long does it take to get to 1500 from the accelator to the floor and the brake on? should i be driving much if i need a new timing chain?
 
#19 ·
I had the same problem raced a 97 manual dihatsu it was 1.3l vs my Eas 4sp. It raped me of the mark but the guy was reving the guts out of it while I was just idling. I competley forgot to rev up the engine. At about 70km i flew past him but until then i was left in the distance. I havent tried reving to 1500rpm if i rev to about 1000 wheels start to smoke up but gonna give it a try soon :)
 
#23 ·
i agree with qwikcorty and EF jase - get a higher stall speed stall converter, that will get your launches happening.

also get some better tyres if it starts to smoke up at 1000rpm!!!

just before you launch mash your left foot on the brake really hard, this should stop the tyres spinning up (combined with 225s of some description) and full throttle.

this is called 'stalling it up' it gives you the best launch, but also creates heaps of heat in the auto so never do it for more than 4 or so seconds at a time, and get a really big auto cooler as well (i reccomend a big-ass auto cooler to anyone with an auto)

when you want to leave the line just let the brake off.

try maybe a 2000rpm stallie or something...
 
#25 ·
Mate Mate Mate, you must be going something wrong...
I got a VK eater... 1988 EA fairmont Ghia Extractors and 2.5inch zorts (3 speed auto) and i eat VK's... I have taken on a 5 speed VK with extractors and 2.5 zorst and beat him by about three car lenghts over the 1/4 mile. also a 3 speed auto which i flogged..both times when i dropped it up in to 2 the vks have been left for dead..
 
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#26 ·
Mate Mate Mate, you must be going something wrong...
I got a VK eater... 1988 EA fairmont Ghia Extractors and 2.5inch zorts (3 speed auto) and i eat VK's... I have taken on a 5 speed VK with extractors and 2.5 zorst and beat him by about three car lenghts over the 1/4 mile. also a 3 speed auto which i flogged..both times when i dropped it up in to 2 the vks have been left for dead..
Yeah I would say I could quite easily beat them over the 1/4 mile, but it's the start where I get left behind thats embarrassing. How do you go between 0-60km/h compared to the VK?

I am sick of being left behind and then having to catch up later on. I wanna be able to AT LEAST keep up to them in the early stages, and then blast them
 
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