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Woofers in doors.!!!!!!!! Vibration

4K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  XRated 
#1 ·
Hi everyone

Yesterday i picked up 2 sets of 6.5" splits. I put the woofers in each door, back and front. Now the front are ok, no vibration but the back suck hard. I am gona open the back door up again and put some padding on the back of the trim. If anyone has got any ideas on how to limit the vibration on the E series doors then please let me know. I also mouted the tweeters in each corner of the roof. IT SOUNDS AWSOME. it was hard but well worth it.

If anyone else has splits in there car, and would like to post some tips for me and others please post away. I will have a full report on problems and positives to post once it is all done.
 
#2 ·
I would look at sound deadening your doors, both back and front.

What you'll need to do is get some "Flashtac" from your local hardware store. It is a tar based adhesive product that you stick to the INSIDE of your door panels to reduce vibrations created by the speakers. You could get a "car audio" equivelant product that is exactly the same from a car audio shop but you'll save heaps by going to your local hardware shop and get "flashtac"..

You'll then need some "carpet underlay" style product that you can get from car audio shops and you'll need to stick this to the inside of the door TRIM. This will eliminate outside noises such as tyre noise, road noise etc..

Then you'll need to go to clark rubber or a similar style store and get some thin, flexible rubber and rap it around all the moving parts in your door (door lock etc..). This will stop all the moving parts vibrating..

You might also want to get some thin rubber and use it as a gasket between the speaker and the door pod.. This may also help.

Dave
 
#3 ·
thanks mate, ill go get some flastic on friday. Yeh i was thinking about putting some thin rubber between the speakers and pods. Ill try everything out within the next week and see how i go. Thanks
 
#4 ·
Sounds like you have some good experience in this area, antigravity. I have wanted to sound deaden my doors for ages but never got around to it.

I went to Bunnings to get some "sound-deadening material" but they had nothing of the sort. What is this "flashtac" stuff (what's its actual purpose?)?

I've also been wanting to make some sort of gasket, hopefully I will get around to it tomorrow :)
 
#5 ·
If you've got the dosh, IMHO the dedicated car audio sound deadeners eg serinity max, dynomat, brown bread etc is well worth the extra dollars as it's easier to apply, considerably denser and will not only stop your panles from vibrating, but will improve your midbass considerably and help cut out road noise all in one, but if your on a budget, then flashtak is the way to go I guess. Just make sure that both the inner and outer door skins are covered...

Just to critisize on your setup a bit, generally the idea is to get the two sound sources as close together as possible when installing splits (ie: keeping the tweeter as close to the woofer as possible) Were have you mounted your woofers? If there in the stock locations then the best place for them would be at the bottom corner of each A pillar, with each tweet firing at the opposite headrest. Alternatively if you've installed the woofers in the bottom of your doors, tweets (IMO and most people's opinions) sound best either in the kickpanels, grafted to the doorpod itself or up in the stock speaker locations....

But each to there own, if your happy with the way they sound ATM then don't change them, but IMO they could sound heaps better.......
 
#6 ·
Rmyers - I would like to get my hands on some "Dynamat Extreme" but can't seem to find it. I noticed you're in Melbourne too and was wondering if you might know of a good place where I can go to get some (not online). I'm also curious to where you got some of your audio gear, Rockford Fosgate, Focal etc.

Cheers mate.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Dynomat Extreme is the absolute best sound deadener you can get your hands on, but will cost you near $100 per square meter...well worth it though. One layer of this stuff has the same effect as two layers of brown bread (the stuff i'm using) I know that auto barn stock brown bread, but i'm not too sure on dynomat :/

To get your hands Dynomat extreme and some of the higher end gear (and anything else related to car audio), you need to find a dedicated car audio store such as freeway car audio, clayton car audio, moorabin car sound, err can't think of any others off the top of my head, that's just the better ones around my area. They sell some more higher end brands and can order in just about any product you desire.

I personally got all my gear from Freeway car audio in dandenong, there's another one somewere but the place has totally slipped my mind. I personally recommend Freeway as they don't seem to "push" products on to you like some other stores, I've stayed in there for upto half an hour at a time simply discussing my plans and what's the best way to execute them, and they can give an indepth but easy to understand explanation of WHY one product is better than another, not just "this product is better coz it's more expensive"...

Just have a look in the yellow pages for car audio specialists or incar entertainment specialist or something of that nature.

Glad to see someone looking into there car audio a little further...
 
#8 ·
Thanks for your reply Rmyers. How much would one square metre cover? Would it do just one door or more? Depending how much it will allow me to cover, I might just get brown bread and use a couple of layers.

I went to Freeway Audio in Dandenong the other week with a friend to check out some gear. They didn't have much RF equipment on display which was quite disappointing. The guy there did give us a really long demonstration of most of the equipment in the store! I've also heard of the one in Clayton but am yet to go.

How are your Focal splits? I'm still doing a lot of research before jumping in and buying some high-end gear (Focal, Infinity, Polk Audio).

Oh, and what the hell are you doing up so late/early?!?
 
#9 ·
does anyone actually have pics of their doors with this stuff applied.
do you put the old foam stuff back on with it too?
i assume it would push the door trim out more and be much harder to line up the screws etc.

i'm lookin at doing mine rather soon, but don't know just how effective it'll be once the trims are back on.
 
#10 ·
I got the tweeters in the top 4 corners of the car, and the woofers in the buttom of each doors. My splits have a setup where i can screw the tweeter into the middle of the woofer but i want the setup of a true split system. Mabe i should mount them on the dash. Any ideas?
 
#11 ·
XRated said:
Thanks for your reply Rmyers. How much would one square metre cover? Would it do just one door or more? Depending how much it will allow me to cover, I might just get brown bread and use a couple of layers.

I went to Freeway Audio in Dandenong the other week with a friend to check out some gear. They didn't have much RF equipment on display which was quite disappointing. The guy there did give us a really long demonstration of most of the equipment in the store! I've also heard of the one in Clayton but am yet to go.

How are your Focal splits? I'm still doing a lot of research before jumping in and buying some high-end gear (Focal, Infinity, Polk Audio).

Oh, and what the hell are you doing up so late/early?!?
They don't really display the products a hell of a lot, I know that moorabin car sound have quite an extensive display, clayton display focal gear but not much else, it's not really like JB were all the stuffs on display. Were are you located?

My splits are very very nice sounding. There tweeters are fairly "bright" which isn't to everyone's liking. A more softer sounding tweeter include the Dynaudio and Morel range of splits, which use a silk dome tweeter while focal use an inverted metal dome. I loved the sound of the tweeters when I first got them, but I've turned them down ever so slightly since so they are not as bright and overpowering. They sound bloody good now, I don't have the splits setup in the optimum position, so there are a lot of issues with the driver placement that I need to sought out, which means my car is probably not the best place to test the quality of the sound they produce.

You'd need 1 and a half square meters to cover each door, both inside and out, so three rolls should suffice....
 
#12 ·
EFFalcon said:
does anyone actually have pics of their doors with this stuff applied.
do you put the old foam stuff back on with it too?
i assume it would push the door trim out more and be much harder to line up the screws etc.

i'm lookin at doing mine rather soon, but don't know just how effective it'll be once the trims are back on.
Here you go, when sound deadening you should generally cover up the access holes with something like MDF but since I plan to put in electric windows, it would have been a pain in the arse...

 
#13 ·
Went down to a couple of Autobarns yesterday and they didn't stock any sound-deadening material - only that spray on crap. Apparently not many people buy it plus it is fairly expensive. The guy recommended "Stinger Roadkill" which he said was about $200 a square metre?! Maybe not...

I think I might try a few hardware stores for the Flashtac stuff.
 
#14 ·
I'm upgrading the standard BA standard audio speakers (5 x 7") in the front doors in my ute.

A guy has offered to install Infinity speakers which i've heard are one of the best, but also some fibreglass stuff for inside the doors to stop vibration.
My question is would 5 x 7's even vibrate enough to warrant putting in the sound deadener stuff?
 
#15 ·
put in the speakers first :)
then find out.
i know my 6.5" ones do
 
#16 ·
I'm led to believe Infinity make excellent speakers. They do have a range from average to high quality. I think their Perfect series are the top of the line ones.

I have two-way 6" speakers in the front which make the doors rattle. Sound deadening material's main purpose isn't for stopping this, but for cancelling out noise from road, engine etc and it will also aid sound output (absorption) somehow.

Your best bet is to find where the rattle occurs and stop it - fixing things down, wrapping rubber/foam around parts etc. I've noticed the plastic in my doors is what actually vibrates against the metal.
 
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