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ed with starting probs

2K views 11 replies 3 participants last post by  EL Ghia 
#1 ·
hi ppl

my ed fairmont auto isnt starting on cold mornings its like its in gear u can hear the relays clickin but the starter motor isnt doing anything, has this happen to any body b4 or does any one know what it could be.

and on the way home from melbourne today my temp and volt meter were moving up and down it was goin from 14.5 volt to 12 than back up to 15 it was a diff volt each time it did it and my temp was goin from N to M and back and couple times.

any help whould be great

Thanks Nick
 
#2 ·
i think there might be a loose earth somewhere - make sure both terminals on the battery are tight and have good contact, also check the earth on the chassis and the engine, its on the exhaust side.
 
#3 ·
ok thanks rollin i have a look tomorrow and see hopefully it happens so i can have a good look.
 
#4 ·
ok i had a look and i dont have power going to the starter motor i took the small cable off it a check it with a mutimeter but nothing
but when i give the steering wheel a good hit it starts.

wat could it be??
 
#5 ·
sounds like a poltergoost :)

it prolly means that the bad connection u have is either in the steering column ie:ignition switch/harness or nearby ie: immobiliser
 
#6 ·
is there a way to bypass the immobiliser?
 
#7 ·
yep. there should be two points that the immobiliser will cut into, but they can be in three places. when i fit them i cut into two of the following three: ignition(red wire with green trace), starter motor(red with blue trace) or fuel pump(black/yellow trace). it sounds like the one you are looking for is the red/blue. if fitted correctly u will see they have cut the red/blue wire in the harness leading away from the ignition switch - but it should be in the vehicle side of the harness connector. does that make sense? if not i can explain it a different way.

into the red/blue wire you will find that they have cut it and attached either four black wires(two pairs) or single black wires(all immobiliser wires are black) basically just splitting it. if you can find both ends of the red/blue wire where it's been cut and join it back together it will bypass that side of the immobiliser. when the rac here bypass a fooked immobiliser they use a scotch-lock to get it to the "nearest service centre".

just out of interest, 7/10 rac breakdowns for flat batteries or starting problems like u describe are dirty or broken battery terminals.

if the above doesnt make sense, lemme know and i'll describe it a different way.
 
#8 ·
btw, that is if it has an after-market immobiliser and not using the smartlock. if it's smartlock then there is no feasible way of bypassing it without alot of mucking around :(
 
#9 ·
yer it is the smartlock i was think of, but i dont think its giving me trouble coz the smartlock lite isnt flashing or staying on when i key the key.

i mite change the battery and see how i go.
 
#10 ·
where is the starter relay on these cars i mite change it to see what happens.
 
#11 ·
next to the battery there are two banks of relays. one bank of 6, and one bank of 4. the starter relay is in the bank of 4 and is the one on the end closest to the coolant header tank. in that bank of 4 at the other end is the horn relay. if u swap them over u can press the steering wheel to test the operation of the starter relay, or failing that use the horn relay to test the starter.
 
#12 ·
ok thanks i try it later.
 
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