OK, I have been asking around on my usual hideout (the forums for
www.overclockers.com.au) about the dual fuel setup on my 95 EF Futura.
Here is the semi full conversation.
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ME:
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Originally posted by NforSa
the amos ring setup are really really really bad way to do gas, almost every car ive seen it on gets ^%^#$ power but decent economy, because of where its located (top of carb) it gets uneven air flows, etc. its the easiest gas setup to install but definetly the most limited.
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So the amos ring is the gas donut as I call it? I have the gas donut in my car (EF Falcon dual fuel) and I think that it would really restrict airflow into the engine. Is there any way to get a larger diameter ring (higher flow).
Toranaguy, you mention running 2 independent spark maps? Would I need a new computer in the car to do this, as I would like to tune this car a little better than it currently is running on both LPG and petrol, changing the timing as necessary, and this sounds to be the only way to do this!
And: Anyone know how to reset the computer in an EF Falcon? Is running like a dog on petrol while coasting at around 60Km/Hr. Very rough running, pulsing and surging all the time. Not running ideal at an idle either, especially after a long trip (3+ Hrs).
Any help much appreciated.
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Obbit:
The donut you are refering to is known as the 'MIXER'.. Because your car is EF the LPG system would of been fitted with an electronic power valve...The large barrell looking thing on the gas line from the convertor to the mixer... Thety suck.. take it out and replace it with a manual p/valve.. You can get them @ most gas shops for under $5 .. A manual p/valve just uses a large srew to restrict the MAX LPG that can flow thru the hose. OPen it all the way and hold the car at your max RPM and screw it in until it starts to miss.. The factory vialle convertors ford use are not adjustable so for $5 the manual valve gives you some room for improvement
The roughness on petrol sounds like the stepper motor -Base Idle Control Solenoid <-- i think thats the proper name is sticking.. 2 *10 mm bolts to remove it (its ontop of the inlet manifold) and a can of degreaser will free the spring up.. They gum up with carbon so take it off and hit it with some degreaser and warm water..
When u put it back on hold the revs @ 2000 for 30 secs and bingo..
The EF's need LPG spark plugs and LPG leads to help it run OK on both ULP and LPG
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ME:
It's already got gas plugs and leads I am pretty sure.
Will a manual valve give worse fuel econemy? More power?
I will try the stepper motor after lunch.
Thanks for the quick reply.
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Obbit:
The beauty of the manual valve is you can vary the flow thru the line yourself..seeming how you can't adjust the convertor itself
The further you set the 'screw' into the line the less gas can flow ..that will give you a increase in economy.. but a tip is to not go too far as the engine works more @ road speeds
Screw it out alittle to get more gas into the inlets and more power... not too much that it "LPG Backfires" under full load
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the unspent LPG will usually cause a bang as it releases.. on E model fords usually the airbox lid or Map sensor hose..same as starting it on LPG with ya foot on the accelerator
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Basically, I am just looking for a second opinion about the manual valve idea.
I will try the cleaning of the solenoid tomorrow (hopefully) but aren't sure exactley what I have to clean? Just make sure it can move ok?
Also, how would I tell if I have gas leads and plugs? I changed them all over only 10kKm ago, for the 300k service.
Regards, Anthony Hunt
