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		<title>Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks and Cars - Ford Escort | Ford Laser | Ford TX3  | Ford Sierra | Mercury Capri</title>
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			<title>2000 ZX2 Occassional Stalling</title>
			<link>http://www.fordforums.com/f63/2000-zx2-occassional-stalling-168626/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 17:05:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm having an issue similar to what's going on in this post: 
http://www.fordforums.com/f63/2000-zx2-won-t-stay-running-168375/

My ZX2 has apx 155,000 miles on it. About 2-3 years ago I was having a problem with the car stalling (engine would just cut off) pretty much every time I came to a stop or close to a stop. Turned out there was a hole in one of the vacuum hoses. This  current stalling issue is very similar to what was happening back then. 

Car starts up fine, when I slow down/down shift to turn or if I stop at a light/stop sign the engine just cuts off. There's no shutter, no roughness, no indication that anything is about to happen. In the case of slowing down to go into a turn, the only way I know it's stalled is the power steering is gone and the dash gauge lights come on. I turn the key and it starts right back up again. Nothing unusual while driving. 

The stalling seems completely random. It first happened a little over a month ago, coming home from running errands I slowed down to pull into the driveway and the car just shut off. Then again the next morning about 5 minutes into my drive to work, slowed down to turn onto another road and the engine cut off. My husband checked the vacuum hoses (or hose) and said there was a little bit of dry rot, cut the dry rotted end off the hose and reattached. This seemed to fix the problem until this morning. The engine cut off 3 times this morning, all when slowing to turn or stopped at an intersection, all within the first 15 minutes of commute. 

Around the time the engine cutting off thing started a little over a month ago, I noticed that the RPM's were quite low while idling. Like when I'm stopped at a light or stop sign, the RPM's will drop to about the .5 mark (used to idle around 1). It doesn't stall out when it drops to .5 though, just drops down for a couple seconds then will slowly creep back up to 1. 

Shortly before the stalling/low idle RPM's started, my air conditioning went out. I can't imagine these issues could be related but I figured I'd through that one out there just in case. I had a broken tie rod and something-or-other joint, then after that was fixed the air conditioning didn't work (literally one day it was producing super chilly air, the next day the cold vent air isn't even cold and the air conditioning is warmer than the cold vent). 

To summarize (since this is way too long and probably has unnecessary details):

- Apx 155,000 miles/Manual Transmission
- Engine randomly cuts off while slowing to turn, or stopping
- Idle RPM's around .5 instead of normal 1 (has never stalled late enough in a stop for me to notice RPM's - stall at stop or slow is usually within seconds of downshifting and breaking)
- No "Check Engine Light", no code

And not sure if these things are symptoms of this issue:
- A/C doesn't work
- Lights inside dash and on the vent/fan control panel are dim or not working at all.

Any guesses? (sorry about the question overload!)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm having an issue similar to what's going on in this post: <br />
<a href="http://www.fordforums.com/f63/2000-zx2-won-t-stay-running-168375/" target="_blank">http://www.fordforums.com/f63/2000-z...unning-168375/</a><br />
<br />
My ZX2 has apx 155,000 miles on it. About 2-3 years ago I was having a problem with the car stalling (engine would just cut off) pretty much every time I came to a stop or close to a stop. Turned out there was a hole in one of the vacuum hoses. This  current stalling issue is very similar to what was happening back then. <br />
<br />
Car starts up fine, when I slow down/down shift to turn or if I stop at a light/stop sign the engine just cuts off. There's no shutter, no roughness, no indication that anything is about to happen. In the case of slowing down to go into a turn, the only way I know it's stalled is the power steering is gone and the dash gauge lights come on. I turn the key and it starts right back up again. Nothing unusual while driving. <br />
<br />
The stalling seems completely random. It first happened a little over a month ago, coming home from running errands I slowed down to pull into the driveway and the car just shut off. Then again the next morning about 5 minutes into my drive to work, slowed down to turn onto another road and the engine cut off. My husband checked the vacuum hoses (or hose) and said there was a little bit of dry rot, cut the dry rotted end off the hose and reattached. This seemed to fix the problem until this morning. The engine cut off 3 times this morning, all when slowing to turn or stopped at an intersection, all within the first 15 minutes of commute. <br />
<br />
Around the time the engine cutting off thing started a little over a month ago, I noticed that the RPM's were quite low while idling. Like when I'm stopped at a light or stop sign, the RPM's will drop to about the .5 mark (used to idle around 1). It doesn't stall out when it drops to .5 though, just drops down for a couple seconds then will slowly creep back up to 1. <br />
<br />
Shortly before the stalling/low idle RPM's started, my air conditioning went out. I can't imagine these issues could be related but I figured I'd through that one out there just in case. I had a broken tie rod and something-or-other joint, then after that was fixed the air conditioning didn't work (literally one day it was producing super chilly air, the next day the cold vent air isn't even cold and the air conditioning is warmer than the cold vent). <br />
<br />
To summarize (since this is way too long and probably has unnecessary details):<br />
<br />
- Apx 155,000 miles/Manual Transmission<br />
- Engine randomly cuts off while slowing to turn, or stopping<br />
- Idle RPM's around .5 instead of normal 1 (has never stalled late enough in a stop for me to notice RPM's - stall at stop or slow is usually within seconds of downshifting and breaking)<br />
- No &quot;Check Engine Light&quot;, no code<br />
<br />
And not sure if these things are symptoms of this issue:<br />
- A/C doesn't work<br />
- Lights inside dash and on the vent/fan control panel are dim or not working at all.<br />
<br />
Any guesses? (sorry about the question overload!)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.fordforums.com/f63/">Ford Escort | Ford Laser | Ford TX3  | Ford Sierra | Mercury Capri</category>
			<dc:creator>KCNC06</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA['89 Escort GT: Oil Light and Flickering Headlights?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fordforums.com/f63/89-escort-gt-oil-light-flickering-headlights-168623/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 08:05:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello,
 
First time poster to this lovely forum.  Just bought an '89 Escort GT that had been sitting for about 4 years (but started weekly and run up and down the drive).
 
About half an hour ago after dropping off a buddy, I gave it a bit of a boot up one of our residential streets, getting it up to around 50 MPH and not doing more than about 4000-4500 RPM.  Immediately after, the oil pressure light came on, and stayed on except for flicking out a couple of times.  Then as I pulled into my street the headlights starting flickering on and off, and continued to do so after I shut the engine off.
 
I'm not really a mechanic but I wanted to propose a theory.  Maybe as I ran the engine up to speed, the oil pump had to work faster and then sucked power from the alternator?  Does this sound plausible or am I out to lunch?  I'm hoping it doesn't need anything drastic but please do offer any help or suggestions.  I'm heading to bed so the car is going to sit overnight now anyways.  Thanks in advance!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
 <br />
First time poster to this lovely forum.  Just bought an '89 Escort GT that had been sitting for about 4 years (but started weekly and run up and down the drive).<br />
 <br />
About half an hour ago after dropping off a buddy, I gave it a bit of a boot up one of our residential streets, getting it up to around 50 MPH and not doing more than about 4000-4500 RPM.  Immediately after, the oil pressure light came on, and stayed on except for flicking out a couple of times.  Then as I pulled into my street the headlights starting flickering on and off, and continued to do so after I shut the engine off.<br />
 <br />
I'm not really a mechanic but I wanted to propose a theory.  Maybe as I ran the engine up to speed, the oil pump had to work faster and then sucked power from the alternator?  Does this sound plausible or am I out to lunch?  I'm hoping it doesn't need anything drastic but please do offer any help or suggestions.  I'm heading to bed so the car is going to sit overnight now anyways.  Thanks in advance!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.fordforums.com/f63/">Ford Escort | Ford Laser | Ford TX3  | Ford Sierra | Mercury Capri</category>
			<dc:creator>Tuneman1984</dc:creator>
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			<title>1994 escort 1.9L TIMING BELT ROUTING</title>
			<link>http://www.fordforums.com/f63/1994-escort-1-9l-timing-belt-routing-168514/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 23:45:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello,
  This is my first post. I have a technical question. My niece has a 1994 Escort 1.9L engine with automatic transmission. Recently she broke a timing belt while I was out of town. I have 2 questions.
 
1. Is this 1.9L engine considered an INTERFERENCE or NON-INTERFERENCE engine?
 
2. Does anyone have  a diagram showing the correct routing of the belt around so many components? This belt broke off, and when I opened the cover it fell out. I think this is the original timing belt.
 
Any help anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
 
gserep1</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
  This is my first post. I have a technical question. My niece has a 1994 Escort 1.9L engine with automatic transmission. Recently she broke a timing belt while I was out of town. I have 2 questions.<br />
 <br />
1. Is this 1.9L engine considered an INTERFERENCE or NON-INTERFERENCE engine?<br />
 <br />
2. Does anyone have  a diagram showing the correct routing of the belt around so many components? This belt broke off, and when I opened the cover it fell out. I think this is the original timing belt.<br />
 <br />
Any help anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated.<br />
Thanks,<br />
 <br />
gserep1</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.fordforums.com/f63/">Ford Escort | Ford Laser | Ford TX3  | Ford Sierra | Mercury Capri</category>
			<dc:creator>GSEREP1</dc:creator>
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			<title>Escort electrical, COIL!!</title>
			<link>http://www.fordforums.com/f63/escort-electrical-coil-168460/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 02:06:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi

 I have an Escort that has been burning coils all Summer.. changed the usual suspects.. wires, plugs(twice), even the PCM.. looked for continuity to ground in the two ground legs in the coil harness.. seemed ok. I DO have stray voltage in my room fuse circuit.  I remove the fuse and it goes away. The PCM is on the circut as well.. disconnecting the PCM does not remove it..(thought it might draw a bit till it went into sleep mode).. checked cig lighter.. dome light.. what else is on that circut? My wiring diagram shows the room fuse hot at all times, but does not show what in on the circut.. other than the PCM. Could this ground out cause the coil to burn out? I found one article that said this was posible.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi<br />
<br />
 I have an Escort that has been burning coils all Summer.. changed the usual suspects.. wires, plugs(twice), even the PCM.. looked for continuity to ground in the two ground legs in the coil harness.. seemed ok. I DO have stray voltage in my room fuse circuit.  I remove the fuse and it goes away. The PCM is on the circut as well.. disconnecting the PCM does not remove it..(thought it might draw a bit till it went into sleep mode).. checked cig lighter.. dome light.. what else is on that circut? My wiring diagram shows the room fuse hot at all times, but does not show what in on the circut.. other than the PCM. Could this ground out cause the coil to burn out? I found one article that said this was posible.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.fordforums.com/f63/">Ford Escort | Ford Laser | Ford TX3  | Ford Sierra | Mercury Capri</category>
			<dc:creator>alaska13</dc:creator>
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			<title>Coolant Leak</title>
			<link>http://www.fordforums.com/f63/coolant-leak-168384/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 01:27:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>HI!!
 
I have a 1999 Ford Escort SE. With a 2.0L engine. I have a small leak coming from the Lower Radiator Hose.
 
I was wondering if anyone can help me??  How hard would it be if I would try to repair it myself??  And what would it take to do the Job??
 
I am pretty handy with tools, and I have changed my own oil.
 
So with most thanks ... Keri</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><i><font color="magenta">HI!!</font></i><br />
 <br />
<i><font color="#ff00ff">I have a 1999 Ford Escort SE. With a 2.0L engine. I have a small leak coming from the Lower Radiator Hose.</font></i><br />
 <br />
<i><font color="#ff00ff">I was wondering if anyone can help me??  How hard would it be if I would try to repair it myself??  And what would it take to do the Job??</font></i><br />
 <br />
<i><font color="#ff00ff">I am pretty handy with tools, and I have changed my own oil.</font></i><br />
 <br />
<i><font color="#ff00ff">So with most thanks ... Keri</font></i></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.fordforums.com/f63/">Ford Escort | Ford Laser | Ford TX3  | Ford Sierra | Mercury Capri</category>
			<dc:creator>Sxy_Lady_34DD</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[2000 ZX2 won't stay running]]></title>
			<link>http://www.fordforums.com/f63/2000-zx2-won-t-stay-running-168375/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 06:08:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 2000 ZX2 that is showing no codes at all but here is the issue.  I can start it up and leave it or drive it and it will be fine.  However, once it is warmed up if I come to a stop or park it the RPM drop rapidly and almost instantly it will shut off.  But if I am driving it you'd never know anything was wrong.  I am used to working on older engines so when I lift the hood on this I am a little lost.  Are there any ideas?

Thanks for anything!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 2000 ZX2 that is showing no codes at all but here is the issue.  I can start it up and leave it or drive it and it will be fine.  However, once it is warmed up if I come to a stop or park it the RPM drop rapidly and almost instantly it will shut off.  But if I am driving it you'd never know anything was wrong.  I am used to working on older engines so when I lift the hood on this I am a little lost.  Are there any ideas?<br />
<br />
Thanks for anything!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.fordforums.com/f63/">Ford Escort | Ford Laser | Ford TX3  | Ford Sierra | Mercury Capri</category>
			<dc:creator>TRGBassGuy</dc:creator>
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			<title>2001 Escort Timing Belt Broke?</title>
			<link>http://www.fordforums.com/f63/2001-escort-timing-belt-broke-168246/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 24 Oct 2009 14:21:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My friends Escort lost power while driving. She had it towed to a garage where they told her the timing belt broke, and had engine damage, and was going to cost $2500 to fix. She is a college student and can't afford the repair. The engine will start and will run very roughly and makes a noise. It wont idle. Is it possible the engine would start with a broken timing belt? Just wondering if the problem could be something else; other than the timing belt.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My friends Escort lost power while driving. She had it towed to a garage where they told her the timing belt broke, and had engine damage, and was going to cost $2500 to fix. She is a college student and can't afford the repair. The engine will start and will run very roughly and makes a noise. It wont idle. Is it possible the engine would start with a broken timing belt? Just wondering if the problem could be something else; other than the timing belt.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.fordforums.com/f63/">Ford Escort | Ford Laser | Ford TX3  | Ford Sierra | Mercury Capri</category>
			<dc:creator>Sylvester57</dc:creator>
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			<title>99 ZX2 idle issues</title>
			<link>http://www.fordforums.com/f63/99-zx2-idle-issues-168213/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:55:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I need some help with verification on my 99 ZX2 idle problem. It revs clear up to 2800 rrpm when it first starts and is slow to come back down. It does the same thing when I put it in gear. When driving around 50 mph / 2000 rpm the rpms will drop by 500 rpm by moving the pedal slightly (I mean VERY slightly) and then return.

I unplugged the IAC and the idle retuned to normal, just a little lower. The CEL came on (I haven't taken it down for a code read yet). The high rpm at the start went away, as did the rpm drop while driving. This is how I want it to run, but it will only do it when the IAC is unplugged.  I put an ohm meter on the IAC and got 11.5 ohms.  Does this mean the IAC is faulty, or is it something else? I removed the IAC and cleaned it. I blew into the chambers, and neither sealed completely. Is this normal or is it leaking? I don't want to buy an expensive part like this unless I know its the problem. The MAF was recently replaced and I've cleaned the throttle body. Neither of these changed the symptoms.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I need some help with verification on my 99 ZX2 idle problem. It revs clear up to 2800 rrpm when it first starts and is slow to come back down. It does the same thing when I put it in gear. When driving around 50 mph / 2000 rpm the rpms will drop by 500 rpm by moving the pedal slightly (I mean VERY slightly) and then return.<br />
<br />
I unplugged the IAC and the idle retuned to normal, just a little lower. The CEL came on (I haven't taken it down for a code read yet). The high rpm at the start went away, as did the rpm drop while driving. This is how I want it to run, but it will only do it when the IAC is unplugged.  I put an ohm meter on the IAC and got 11.5 ohms.  Does this mean the IAC is faulty, or is it something else? I removed the IAC and cleaned it. I blew into the chambers, and neither sealed completely. Is this normal or is it leaking? I don't want to buy an expensive part like this unless I know its the problem. The MAF was recently replaced and I've cleaned the throttle body. Neither of these changed the symptoms.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
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			<dc:creator>wzdoug</dc:creator>
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