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1980 Grand Marquis overheat / rough idle / lurches

2K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  mrbob909 
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#1 ·
anonymous@usenetserver.com wrote:

>All who might know whats going on with my 1980 Grand Marquis...
>
>It has 81,000 orig. miles. It sat for a while, not sure how long.
>Then it was run for a while (not by me) and it over heated.
>It was limped back to it's owners home where it sat a couple
>of years.
>
>I have removed and flushed the radiator and block (forgot the
>dammed heater core!) When I say flushed, I gently banged on
>the radiator while running a garden hose through it. I ran the
>garden hose from the top of the block and it appeared to flow
>un obstructed out the lower radiator hose. Didn't see an extra
>ordinary amount of junk come out of either the radiator or block.
>I replaced the thermostat. I did run the car for an hour or so with
>out the thermostat and observed water flow in the radiator. I tried
>the thermostat in both directions until I discovered the correct
>direction. I wasn't sure if the previous owner may have replaced it at
>some point in time, and perhaps it wasn't installed correctly. The
>Chilton's manual merely says "be sure to note the direction the
>thermostat was in and replace it in the same manner" (er something
>like that). It didn't offer very much help. I removed the fan and
>cleaned the bi-metal clutch assy. just incase the fan may not be
>moving fast enough. I thought about replacing the water pump in case
>it wasn't moving enough water through the block (damaged impeller??)
>I also contemplated getting the radiator boiled out, but I'm not sure
>how well that actually works. I've flushed and changed the oil using
>5-30 Castrol. I am at my wits end as to what could be causing this
>overheat problem. Any help, recommendations, or insights would be
>greatly appreciated. Oh, >I forgot to mention that this car has a 302 V8 with a variable
venturie carbeurator. Don't know if that makes any difference.
>Tks in advance
>
>Wes
 
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#2 ·
boiling out the rad is a very good way to clean one with ricking damage to the tubes. one way to tell if the rad needs rodding out is to warm the car to operating temp, and put your hand on the fins to see if they are hot or not. areas where you can touch the rad and feel little or no heat is where tubes are blocked.
 
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#3 ·
Dear rbohm, when you say "over heating" are you verifing temperature,or is it a visual thing or what?
Is it losing coolant? The factory indicator light is not an accurate way of being sure it is too hot,if that is what is alerting you. Please tell me more specifics.As for the idle problem I had the same problem with my 84 cv 5.8 police. The VVcarb will need to be rebuilt or replaced with new.They are not cheap either.Iwould think about swapping intakes and go to older style Motorcraft 2 bbl.I'd be happy to help you figure out whats wrong if you'll get back to me. Take Care,Mr.Vic
 
#4 ·
There's no need in replacing the intake when swapping for the standard 2bbl. Ford dealership's sell a kit which supply's everything needed including the EGR valve and plate, vaccum schematic's, gasket's, etc.
Have you thought to check if the timing chain has stretched?
This can create the problem's that you are having.
 
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#5 ·
It could be your exhaust

i have an 84' ford ltd country squire, and it got hot, and very quickly, we couldnt figure out why. then we took a look at the exhaust and it turns out the cats were clogged pushing hot air into the engine bay. you might wanna check that out. just my .02 cents.
 
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