My 1989 Grand Marquis Wagon with 302 efi and 223000KM Is starting to stuble and steedy acc again last time I change the distributor with a rebuilt it was fine but 2 years later and again.at 70Km plus and on the highway on cruise at 110KM it stumbles if I give more gas it fine. and some times after and car in stoped and off you can smell raw gas. No gas leaks at all. I installed new plugs and a msd coil about 10000km ago 2 months old auto lite gap to 50. this weekend I installed ford racing wires 9mm and a Msd distributor and it till does it I going to install new pulgs again nsk slit fires and a msd box 6A. I hope this will fix it. I putting in 20W50 oil in for almost 1 years now?? with would hurt it right.
thank if you cand help the New guy here
Hard to follow some of your message. My Crown Vic isn't EFI, and the carb system is a lot different than the EFI, and causes for smelling fuel are completely different bewteen the two systems.
However, It's possible you could have a leaky injector, broken fuel vapour line, bad gas cap, etc. You'll have to take your time diagnosing different components. Best place to start is to pick yourself up a couple of manuals - one specifically for the Crown Vic, another based on EFI fuel systems in general. Both will give you troubleshooting ideas. Since it sounds as if you've swapped out the ignition components twice, I don't believe it is ignition related. Check the connections to the Duraspark module - it certainly won't hurt.
Oil - Answering that question isn't as straight-forward as some would believe. Car manufacturers usually lay out a diagram in their manuals, and show on a graph which grade of oil is best depending on the climate where you live. For instance, someone in the Northern U.S., or Canada (like myself) won't ever use 20W50 during late fall or winter. Some people often make a blanket statement to the effect of "the thicker the oil, the longer your engine will last." Well, this is true - to a point. If you're using too thick of an oil during colder periods, it will not flow quickly enough to vital engine parts. This means additional wear during cold-starts. You could also be placing an unnecessary burden on your starter, too. In order to best answer your question, it would be best to refer to an owner's manual for your car. I could be wrong, but for year round driving in most of north america, I'm making an educated guess that Ford will either recommend 10W40, or 10W30. Feel free to correct me if anyone has information to the contrary. This "educated guess" ONLY applies to the older Crown Vics such as yours. I'm willing to bet the newer Crown Vics have a completely different recommendation for oil specs.
Engineers perform the fine art/science of choosing an oil that is thick enough that it won't break down under heat & stress, but at the same time is thin enough to flow quickly.
I have a book. there in no duraspark box It is a TFI system with a TFI module that is new with the MSD distributor. I put 20W50 with 1L of Lucas and it keeps her quite. I live near you in southern Ontario. And I plug my car in block heater. I did tonight it snowed. In the winter I put in 1L Lucas with 2 liters 15w40 and 1.5 20W50. Under stumble during acceleration in say Ignition system or fuel or engine control systems. But there are no codes. And it pass emmistion test good in may. It only does it holding speed stedy like at 70 ect.
Mixing different vicousities of oil is not recommended. Now I've never seen the phenomena, but apparently two different grades of oil sometimes react with each other much like oil & water reacts - they don't mix. I am a little skeptical - because how are you to know what oil to use if, for instance, you're adding oil to a car that does not belong to you? I'm sure that different grades of oil are mixed all the time without ever knowing.
However, to purposely mix two different grades of oil together - what purpose is there in doing that? Pick an oil, and use it - don't complicate matters by mixing your own oil.
What does your manual state is the correct oil to use? Personally, I wouldn't deviate from that. In our climate, I wouldn't run anything thicker than 10W40 in your engine during the winter. Again, I stress following the manual's recommendations, and not my "best guess." I use 10W40 - only because I don't have a manual, and I know by experience that 20W50 is too thick for cold weather. As for harm - by using an incorrect oil on a car as old as yours, you're not going to do anything worse that time & everything else has already done to the engine.
Another reason for using the correct oil is also for fuel economy. The thicker the oil, the harder the engine has to work. How much fuel will you really save in the long run? Well, this is something that has been debated...
I will say this much - the climate in Southern Ontario over the last 20 years hasn't been cold enough to warrant the use of a block heater on a Crown Vic. If you need a block heater, you are using too thick of an oil (or you travel a lot in the northern part of the province). My '85 Crown Vic never came equipped with a block heater, nor has anyone added one. It has never failed to start during the coldest of winter days. The story might be quite different if I lived in a northern part of the province. Most cars in this part of the province don't need a block heater. Diesel-powered cars are a completely different story.
One more thing about the fuel - have you checked or replaced the fuel filter recently? Sometimes one that is just starting to get a bit plugged will react that way - fine until you reach a certain speed, and then it starts to misbehave. A fuel filter that is really bad might allow the car to run at slower speeds, but once you reach a certain speed it just won't go faster, and the engine just lacks power. However, this doesn't explain why you smell fuel. You can also check vacuum hoses & the PCV valve. Vacuum hoses are often overlooked. On a car as old as yours, many hoses will be cracked, hardened, or pourous. Hope some of this helps..
I change my fuel filter every year. I'am going to change it again only been six moths. my car calls for 5W30 she will make a lot of nosie with that at start and on long drives. I've gotten the best gas millage like this ever and this is my 2nd ford boat. I can get 600km plus per tank highway. And add this msd stuff I hope it get better. so 20W50 did not kill gas my gas mileage. My wife keep saying she thinks the engine is going to blow. I tell her the only thing thats going to blow is you. Ha ha. I'll see if the fuel filter will fix it ?? Thanks for the talk
Well, if you're changing your fuel filter once every year, I would be willing to bet my first born child that isn't the problem (it was just a suggestion). Unless someone has been dumping boatloads of fine sand into your gas tank, I highly doubt that changing your filter again this year will improve matters. Most people forget all about the fuel filter, and it only gets changed once the vehicle runs terribly. The fuel filter is so forgotten in many instances, that I'm sure many cars only ever see one or two fuel filter replacements during their entire service.
My point is this - you're "above the norm" to be replacing your fuel filter once every year. It's a good thing, and good preventative maintenance. Because you do this annually, I think it's safe to knock this off the list as being a potential fault, especially if you've replaced the filter recently as you say.
How about the EGR valve? Sometimes this little beastie can cause some interesting problems. The valve is very easy to check. While I'm not overly crazy about the Haynes manual, you can pick one up locally for about $20. It tells you how to check the EGR valve, and having it will help in other areas. The best shop manuals are the factory ones, but you can expect to pay considerably more for them.
Just tossing out some ideas at this point....the solution to the nagging problem is going to be a simple one. Good luck...
these cars are notorious for vaccum leaks which causes all sorts of running problems. inspect the entire vaccum system, use a gauge and check manifold vaccum, try disconnecting various hoses and blocking them to see if vaccum increases.
you say there are no codes but have you checked for codes? the check engine light is not a good indication as it is not connected to the self diagnostic system on these cars.
Also keep in mind there are 3 types of trouble codes, Key On Engine Off, Key On Engine Running and keep alive or continuous codes.
something else I forgot... check the fuel pressure. it should be 38-42 psi with the vaccum hose removed from the regulator.
also, have you check the base ignition timing? it should be 10-12 degrees with the spout connector removed.
I'd also like to make a correction - I did a bit of research, and 20W50 is actually one of several grades of oil that is acceptable to use. Not too sure how well it would perform with Ontario winters, and not sure if it'd cause hard starting on extremely cold days. I do know that my Crown Vic starts with ease with 10W40 on the coldest days of the year.
So, to re-answer an earlier question if 20W50 would harm your engine - if it's a recommended oil, and doesn't cause hard starting on cold winter days, you should be fine...
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.