I am disabled (on the job shooting) and retired, and on a fixed income.
a little handy under the hood
I Ran my car through a flood 2 days ago, 30 feet length of water,
then the check engine light flashed for a few seconds, then off.
2 days later i went to start it,
click click from the underhood relay, thats it.
I am going to venture underneath to beat on the starter motor
maybe i can get it started to bring to a shop
it is stuck in my garage
I hope i diddnt get a sensor wet
would a wet sensor cause no start, no turn, no sounds????
You say that the flood was 30 feet long, but how deep was it? Did it cover the car, or just uo to the wheel wells? This might be important information. I ran a car through a ditch a couple of times, water about 30 to 40 feet across and about 2 feet deep, no problems what-so-ever. The depth of the water is more important than the length.
It was less than 2 feet deep
enough to put the starter under water.
NOW i put the key in and turn it, the check engine light comes on
and the battery light is lit (gave it a full charge)
I hope i diddnt drown the sensors
I would hate to put in a new starter and it still doesnt start!!!
Is there any way to check a starter on the car??
also, this is a newer ford design, on my old explorer, i used to jump the wire next to the battery, bolted to the side, with a wrench, to jump something, solenoid i think it was called.
I do not see that on the newer car.
The first thing I would do is disconnect the battery ground then pull the power and ground (big) wires off your starter and clean them. Reinstall starter wires. Clean and reinstall Batt ground. Wouldn't hurt to clean the power cable as well. You are getting power to your solenoid if you here it clicking. That means all the wiring in the control circuit are probably OK.
Your starter could have gone bad. But I have seen many vehicles with your symptoms that ended up being a bad ground at the starter. Good luck.
And no, the " old screwdriver trick" will not work in your application. The screw driver closes the circuit that the relay is supposed to close. Your relay is most likely already working. The power has not place to go due to a bad ground wire. A relay can click and still have a bad contact inside and not work but lets just keep it simple for now and check those starter wires.
Always disconnect your batt ground before doing any electrical work.
If the vehicle is equiped with an anti-theft system then you should refer to your owners manual or talk to your dealer before disconnecting your battery.
I cleaned the wires and contacts on the starter, had someone turn the key, gave it a few taps, and WHOOOOOSHHHHH that big ole engine fired up!!!
Took it for a long drive to maube dry it out.
came home, shut her down she restarted 4 times, but with a whizzing sound for 2-3 seconds after startup.
I am going to remove it after i find my damn sockets the 3 year old took.
Darn 10mm is missing, and thats the one it seems is needed to remove 3 bolts from engine. I thought American car, American sockets, but none fit.
Thanks for all the help.
Sounds as if the contacts have been needing a good cleaning for a while. Going through the water probably got enough moisture between the metal components on an already bad connection, and it was the final straw.
This thread actually has me thinking now....a year ago I replaced my starter. Once in a blue moon the old starter, while starting, would begin to turn the engine, then quickly disengage & re-engage again (like as if it momentarily had no voltage going to it). I know the solenoid was good, but I ended up replacing the starter because one day I went to the store, and when I came out - nothing. Not even a click. I didn't think of checking the connections - I just replaced the starter after verifying the solenoid was fine, and all was well. Maybe I just had a bad connection, but I'll never know now. I should have known better. Ah well...
As for the fasteners - sorry, you can't go by the old addage that it's an American car & it uses imperial fasteners. Most of the north american cars now use almost all metric fittings (I say almost all, because you will still encounter the odd nut & bolt that uses the old imperial stuff). Some old American cars such the Fiero almost exclusively used metric nuts & bolts - but such cars were not too common in their day.
Mr. Super duper mechanico spent over 3 hours trying to get starter out, he was stuck on the last bolt, bolt #3.
I seen the three bolts when i was under it, and decided it was a job for a pro!!!
He still doesn't have it out, i have to go back tomorrow.
As far as not replacing it, even though it is working now, i do not want to be with 2 restless toddler boys, snowing out, cold, far from home, and hear click-click-goes-the-starter because i was too cheap last October to fix it!!
That's actually probably not a bad idea (to have the starter replaced). You can't be faulted for it. Like you, I heavily depend on my car. I don't care how old it is (mine is 21 years old), it has to start, has to be reliable, and it has to be safe. Everyone thinks I'm crazy to have put so much money into such an old car that isn't worth anything. But I can't afford car payments, and this still beats having car payments. I'm happy, and have peace of mind knowing many major parts are new, and the likelihood that I'll be left stranded somewhere is minimal.
Too bad for your mechanic - these older Vics only have two bolts to drop the starter, and one more bolt to remove the battery cable. Starter is changed in a manner of minutes since it is so easy to access. It sounds as if with the newer designs, not all bolts are easily accessible... Hope he's not charging you every time he curses. ;-)
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.