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'92 GM Transmission problem

3K views 11 replies 3 participants last post by  george3405 
#1 ·
I have a '92 GM with 72,000 original miles on it. My one sister bought it from the Mercury Dealer with about 68,000 miles on it. She passed away and I inherited it with about 70,000 miles on it. I had it a couple of years and it always ran and looked like new. I sold it to my other sister and she put only 2,000 miles at most on it when she said the transmission started slipping. She parked it for about 7 years. She recently gave me the car and after putting a new fuel pump and filter in it with new gas, it started up. Unfortunately, it does slip in forward gear, but will pull well in reverse, except it feels like something is holding a bit. Also, it takes a lot of cranking before it starts, but the engine runs well. Do you all have any suggestions? Thanks George3405
 
#3 ·
Bert,
I checked the fluid today. The fluid looks more brown than red, but not dark brown. The fluid is transparent like pretty clean, but when the engine was running and was cold, the fluid level was about 1/2 inch above the cross hatched area. I know once it heats up it will read higher. The fluid does not really smell burnt. When I move the car, the engine revs free in drive and then goes into gear, but drops out again and does this repeatedly. In reverse it does fine. I haven't had a chance to try reading codes yet. Any further thoughts are appreciated. (Any sensors that would have these same symptoms if they were going or were bad?) Hoping for an easy fix. Thanks, George3405
 
#4 ·
I used to work at transmission shops (For what that's worth) and my advice is to NOT NOT NOT attempt to put it into gear in this condition.
Auto transmisions can be quickly ruined anytime there is slippage as you describe.

From what I've read,I would say you need to change the filter. It could also be that the seals in the valve-body are hardened from age and from possibly drying out during the lay-up.Hard seals also cause engagement problems.
I'm not even familiar with that filter so someone else can clarify,but unless it is the screen type that can't really get clogged too easily, then your symptoms describe a transmission being starved of pressure due to a blocked filter. So try this first.
Then,if it still isn't right after a BRIEF test,you may have to swap in a valve-body or a rebuilt trans.
Brown fluid is a bad sign and cold fluid may not give off as much odor as when it is hot.
 
#5 ·
Yesterday, I changed the fluid and filter. The fluid came out red. The new fluid, Mercon V, is the funkiest smelling fluid I've smelt. The old fluid didn't smell bad. When I got everything finished I tried to start the car, but it wouldn't start. Fuel is up to the fuel rail so I guess there's no ignition. I put the computer reader on it, but the reader just sat there with one piercing sound and the light stayed steady. That was of course for the Key on, engine off test. I had this happen once before I replaced the fuel pump and got it running. I did have the negative cable off the battery while I was changing the transmission fluid & filter. Any further ideas? Thanks.
 
#6 ·
It could be the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor or the connection to them. Hard to say without some testing.

When you changed the trans fluid, did you drain the convertor? There's a plug in it that can be reached through the rubber plug after rotating the engine till it's in line there. The Mercon fluid is semi-synthetic. That's why it smells that way.
 
#7 ·
How do I test to find out if it is a crankshaft or camshaft sensor. Would that make the computer reader not be able to read the computer?
Yes, I did drain the converter. By the way, there was a film of black like sludge in the bottom of the pan, but the fluid was red and okay looking. Thanks, George
 
#9 ·
The no start problem is fuel related. Sprayed starting fluid and it started and as soon as starting fluid was used up it died. When I turn on the key I hear a noise like a small motor operating for some time up around the fuel rail and then it shuts off. I'm recharging the battery and then will retry. Again, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, George3405
 
#10 ·
The code reader reads 543 Fuel pump circuit open; Battery to pcm. The fuel pump runs continuously and sounds like fuel constantly running through the fuel rail. Sometimes after 5 minutes it stops and the engine will start. Then I took the car off jack stands and encountered same no start problem. Could it be the fuel pump relay working intermitently? I'm confused. Thanks, George3405
 
#12 ·
Okay, here's the finish to this thread. A loose wire at the fuel pump relay proved to be the intermittnet no start problem. The sad note is that the tranny is shot. After changing the fluid and filter (including cleaning the silt from the bottom of the pan) it pulls even less in drive. Talked to the trans. shop and he says that if the pressure solenoid went out that the tranny would have been burnt up in 25 miles. Without looking the repair bid is $1,200.-$2,000. My niece is possibly interested in the car and will have the tranny overhauled. Just wish I didn't have to wait 2 weeks for her to come get it, if she decides to. Many thanks to you for all of your help. George3405
 
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