94 Crown Vic, no dash lights or running lighs. - Ford Forums

Kaervak · 11-19-2009, 21:40

1994 Crown Victoria LX, no dash light or running lights. Headlights, turn signals and brake lights work fine though. Fuses check out fine. From a bit of research that I've done it seems to be the lighting control module. I'm not a Ford guy, so can anyone verify that and where is the LCM on the CV? I'm guessing something like that is going to be buried in the dash somewhere right? Thanks guys.

**rtg143** · 11-20-2009, 07:44

94 didn't have a lighting control module. Have you checked the headlight switch?

Kaervak · 11-20-2009, 11:48

Ah, I just assumed the CV had the LCM since a lot of other people have been having the same issue on different model years. Haven't yet checked out the headlight switch but I'll do that next. Does removing the switch require the dash to be torn apart at all?

**rtg143** · 11-20-2009, 12:00

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. Remove RH and LH mouldings from instrument panel by pulling up and snapping out of retainers.

3. Remove screws retaining instrument panel finish panel to instrument panel. (See Cluster panel below.)

4. Remove light switch knob from shaft and remove instrument panel finish panel.

5. Remove two headlamp bracket retaining screws and pull light switch knob and headlamp switch from instrument panel.

6. Remove nut retaining headlamp switch to light switch knob, disconnect electrical connector and remove headlamp switch.

7. To install, reverse Removal procedure.

Cluster Finish Panel Removal and Installation
1. Remove RH and LH instrument panel moulding from instrument panel by pulling away from instrument panel and snapping out of retainers.

2. Remove headlamp switch knob and shafts .

3. Remove instrument panel finish panel, radio chassis, air conditioner control and disconnect cigar lighter knob and element wiring.

4. Remove nine screws retaining instrument panel finish panel to instrument panel.

5. Pull instrument panel finish panel away from instrument panel while unsnapping RH and LH upper corner retainers and disconnect wiring. Remove instrument panel finish panel from vehicle.

6. To install, reverse Removal procedure.

7. Verify that air bag warning indicator operates, if equipped.

Kaervak · 11-20-2009, 12:03

Ah that's nothing. Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. :)

Kaervak · 11-20-2009, 14:11

Got the headlight switch pulled, rather easy actually, and I think it's ok. However, the electrical connector, not so much.

http://home.roadrunner.com/~kaervak/img_2186.jpg
http://home.roadrunner.com/~kaervak/img_2187.jpg

There's some small oxidation/stuff on the headlight switch connector where the blown lead in the electrical connector is.

http://home.roadrunner.com/~kaervak/img_2188.jpg

Wiggling the switch around before I fully disconnected it did turn the running lights on, so I think the switch is ok. The electrical connector in the dash will have to be replaced along with the burned wire. Anything else I should look out for?

Edit: Did some testing with my multimeter and the switch is good. Looks like all I'll need is to replace that electrical connector and the running lights should work again.

**rtg143** · 11-20-2009, 16:50

Looks like you've got it covered. I'd probably replace the switch too. Sometimes the heat from a poor connection cooks the contacts inside and they quit too. They'll run hot and burn the plug again. But that's up to you. Glad you'll be able to drive at night again.

Kaervak · 11-26-2009, 00:13

Update: Got to the junkyard and pulled a replacement connector and electrical lead. Running lights and dash lights are working again. Now I just have to replace the blower motor resistor, burned electrical connector, dehaze the headlights and the minor issues will be taken care of. The horrifyingly noisy front suspension is going to be fun to fix.

**rtg143** · 11-26-2009, 07:55

Thanks for the update. Glad yo fixed it. Let us know what you find with the noise, now you found it, and when when it was making the noise.

Happy Thanksgiving.