Re: 94 GM Driver Door Pops
Thanks for the info and all the pictures. I finally got back to work on this project.
The bad hinge was the lower one with the door holding roller. I decided to see if I could get a new hinge instead of salvaging one from a junkyard. I was afraid that I would get one worse than the one on the car. After all the GM only has 41,000 miles. The hinge was available as a special order but it came the next day. It was Ford part number 6W1Z5422810A and cost $60. It was chrome plated so I primed it and painted it with a $7 can of spray touch-up paint.
The nuts for the hinge bolts are part of the bodywork so you don’t need to take the door apart. The stud on the body side has the only nut and it is accessible through the kick panel on the driver’s side. You have to remove the panel and disconnect three electrical connectors for access. Put some sticky tape on your socket so you don’t drop the nut into God-knows-where.
You’ll need a ½ inch u-joint socket to get out the bolt between the door and the fender. That’s one with the knuckle as part of the socket. There isn’t room for a u-joint and a socket. Be sure to put some tape on the door and fender to protect the paint as you remove that bolt.
You have to unbolt the top door hinge from the door and pull the door away to be able to remove the lower hinge and put the new one in. Mark the top hinge before unbolting it and be sure to carefully line it up again when you put it back together. It’s a lot easier to align the door if one hinge is where it should be set. You will need help holding the door to get it aligned. I supported the door with a couple of wood blocks and a blanket to protect the paint. It took multiple tries with the bottom hinge to get the door aligned but it finally ended up just about perfect
The whole project took about four hours and would have taken a lot less if I had known what I described here.