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'95 Vic Replacement Intake & Beef Up

2K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  Bajarider 
#1 ·
Okay, so I'm soon to inherit a 1995 Crown Victoria! One major problem is that with only 50,000 miles, the intake has cracked and been replaced TWICE! I think I read somewhere, I can use a mustang intake? The other thing is i want to beef up this car! I'm thinkin bore the block, and new suspension. Any suggestions?
 
#4 ·
Could you give me some information on the swap? I've also read stories of Fords motor mounts being so similar that with adjustments you can put a triton V10 in a vic!! I understand that thats total overkill! How much Hp do you think the 5.4 would put out with and with out a turbo?
P.S. here is the link to that story:
1999 Ford Crown Victoria - Featured Vehicles - Hot Rod Magazine
 
#5 ·
Hello Grease:

The 5.4 can be built to perform better than a V-10 in a CV. Unless you just want the visual impact of a V-10 under the hood, stick with the 5.4, especially if you haven't built any cars or done a couple of engine swaps before. The V-10 is a heavier engine, so you need higher rate springs and the V-10 requires a 4R100 trans and a lot of fabrication to stuff it into a Panther (do you have a welder and well equipped machine shop?) The 5.4 will bolt to your stock trans and motor mounts, but the trans should be in very good condition and the separator plate should be drilled for more fluid flow and the accumulator springs should be replaced with softer springs for firmer shifts.

As to building the 5.4, you need to decide what you are going to use the car for. Panthers are heavy and if you are building something just for the strip, think Mustang. But, if you want a good performing street sleeper that will give German sedans fits and provide decent mileage with 3.27 gears, the 5.4 is just the engine you are looking for.

Forget about top end horsepower, YOU WANT TORQUE, for good street performance, the kind of power that instantly nails you back in your seat at low to mid RPM. The 5.4 can be built to put out around 340-350 lb. ft. (easily 120 lb.ft. more than the 4.6) of torque at the rear wheels (dynos vary) and around 300 HP at the rear wheels. I am guessing, but that's probably around 350 HP at the crankshaft.

5.4's are plentiful in the boneyard. Look for an F-150. You have to decide if you want a good engine or one that needs rebuilt, but I prefer to start with a good bare block and build my own.

The biggest problem with installing a 5.4 into a CV is the intake manifold height. I personally think that it looks out of character and stupid to have a big hood bulge or pro-stock scoop on a sedan, and it kind of gives away the sleeper part, anyway. So, you need to adapt a PI intake manifold from a CV or GM to the engine. The rest is almost bolt in.

I first did this swap ten years ago and very little speed equipment was available for the 5.4 at that time. I had to machine adapter plates for the stock 4.6 intake. Now, there are good heads and cams for this engine, low profile intake manifolds or adapter plates. This is a factory looking swap and really fixes the horsepower shortage these cars suffer from. If you are still interested, I will go into more detail on the next post.
 
#7 ·
Thank you so much for all this great info!!! Seeing as I only have minimal tolling and minimal budget, I think I will go with the 5.4! If you could give some directions as to the process that would be great! I think I gonna go with the whole "Sleeper" idea, and get the low profile intake. Anything else I need to know?
 
#8 ·
Hello Grease:

First off, does the car have the HPP? Check tire size and look for dual exhaust. You will need handling to go with the new found power for a safe and balanced car, so make sure that the rest of the car is up to the engine's output.

Have you built any engines before? Do you have the tools needed to rebuild an engine? You will need, in addition to the usual hand tools, a complete set of accurate micrometers to check your machine shop's work, depth gauges and "straight" bars (many good brands, but think Lufkin or Starrett) and a recently calibrated torque wrench.

As for the engine, start by deciding what you are looking for. Do you want just a good block as a starting point for a complete rebuild, or a complete "good" running engine? Keep in mind that you need to change pistons, heads and cams, to get any power out of a 5.4. (The "bottom end" of a low mileage good 5.4 is more that stout enough for what you are going to build).

About this time, you also need to find a trusted machine shop in your area. Check with the guys and gals at the local drag strip or cruise night for a machine shop(s) they use and trust, and even then, check their work with the tools mentioned while you assemble the engine.

What I have said may seem complicated, but it is basic, and this is an easy swap, a real learning experience, and you will have fun and be very happy with the end result, so do not become discouraged! I was petrified when I fired up the first FORD flathead that I built, but I have gained much from that first engine in the years that have followed.

More to come, but get a copy of the latest Summit or JEG's catalog for reference, and get to know the people at the local speed shops!
 
#9 ·
Grease:
I forgot to mention that now would also be a good time to start rounding up an engine hoist and stand. You can rent or borrow hoists, but they are not expensive. You will need a hoist many times in the following years, so buy it now, save big bucks and keep your friends by using them to help pull the engine and not to borrow tools from. An engine stand is also mandatory.You can't build an engine on the garage floor.
Check Harbor Tool and freight or E-bay
 
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