I LOVE my SN95 (96 GT, Procharger P1SC), but I'm considering a switch to something a bit more comfortable, but with the potential to be a nice sleeper. I've spent a few hours on research, and I have a few questions:
If I understand correctly, 2005 is when the Crown Vics started coming with 31 spline axles/diffs. Is that the same across all models?
I'm very familiar with PI when it comes to Mustangs. Non-pi for 96-98, PI starts in 99, goes to 04. I would assume Panthers would follow the same course, but I was surprised to find the 2007 Vic only has 224 HP. What are the differences?
I'm likely going to be selling my Mustang, but likely won't be selling the 15" wheels and DRs I have. Is the bolt pattern on the Panther the same as the Mustang?
I know a 4000 lb sedan is not meant for road courses, but aside from the typical sway bars/shocks/struts/springs, etc., is there anything to be done to quicken the steering?
I'm planning on going with the ADTR Vortech blower, unless someone has a better option. Thoughts on the 3-5 most important gauges? I just have boost and fuel pressure for my Mustang, not sure how necessary the latter is. And on the same topic, what are my options for gauge mounting that doesn't look terrible? I'd love to do a single din stereo with a 3 pod below it, but am open to options.
I own Mustangs and a 2005 CV Sport. It will be hard to get a 4000+lb CV to run like a Mustang, but sleepers are more fun anyway. Start with a Sport. You'll like the seats and center console, but you'll love the 17" wheels and HPP package with 3:23 gears. Look for one with a sunroof. I like mine with the charcoal exterior and interior, but they also came in black, silver and maroon. The Mercury LSE is the same, but with smaller tires and wheels, and is a hard car to find.
Now you are off to a start.
Now, think torque motor! Low end and mid-range grunt! Build a 5.4 with trick flow heads and 75 mm throttle body. Use spacers to retain the stock 4.6 intake manifold. Modify the 4R70 trans separator plate for more fluid flow, remove the second spring on the 1-2 accumulator and use a lighter (blue I think, but check!) spring in the 2-3 accumulator. Loose the rear resonators and use high-flow cats. I fly through emissions tests, it runs clean and the smog test guy never notices that the car is anything but stock.
You will now have a reliable low to mid 14 second, 320 rear-wheel HP car that will get 24 MPG hwy. It will make BMW/Mercedes drivers cry, and leave Charger's wondering what happened to their doors. I still leave Mustang GT's alone.
Don't forget to turn off your traction control when you launch, and you might consider a limited slip diff.
BTW, your 15" wheels will not fit an '05 C/V. They are too small and will not clear the brake calipers. It appears that you want the car to handle well, why put such small wheels on it anyway? Use at least 16's with the proper backspacing, or better yet, 17's off a Sport.
Sway bars will not quicken the steering, they just make the car corner flatter and can be used to balance the car's slip angle front to rear. Later models have rack and pinion steering and it works just fine.
Check the gauges on a Merc Marauder. The pod fits a C/V Sport.
Thanks for your response! The goal is not so much to build a "Mustang killer", at least not right away. Long term, perhaps (and again, I recognize the level of power that will be required...but more than possible given the 4.6 with the introduction of forged bits and forced induction). As such, and since the 4.6 can go for 300-400k, I don't particularly feel like ditching that block right away.
I wasn't planning to use the 15" wheels for improved handling. I have a special set of 15" wheels (2) with drag radials that I swap out when I take the Mustang to the track.
I'm not sure a C/V could ever be built to be a Mustang killer and remain a practical and streetable daily driver (open to definition) without spending a bundle. (A built 5.4 will run around $5-6K alone, and a stock 5.4 will not produce a power increase worth the effort).
I've been around and owned many of these cars since '92 and I haven't seen any normally aspirated I4.6'sI in a street driven daily driver C/V that could even remotely be considered quick. A few, running deep gears, have run high 13's (admittedly, quick for a street car), but they are drag strip queens, not really daily drivers, and not quite a "sleeper" (the mods would be obvious). If that's what you are looking for then obviously it can be done, and would be a lot of fun, but the engine will need a lot of internal mods. "Speed cost money, how fast do you want to go"?
The 15's wont's fit at all. If you can even bolt them on, they will rub the brake calipers. You will need 16's or larger.
All late model C/V's are PI's. The trick flow heads flow better than stock PI's on a 5.4. I have seen them on 4.6 Mustangs, but I don't know how well they work on the 281.
Let me know what you come up with. I'd like to see a 4.6 that runs well without breaking the bank.
I agree with you regarding comfort. C/V's are more comfortable, reliable, good grocery getters, and easy to get in and out of (I'm 65, 6-0 195 lbs, and it's getting a little harder to bend into the Mustangs, but I am looking for an '08-'09 Bullitt anyway)
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