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Old 04-29-2003, 11:03   #1 (permalink)
mercurybiz
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Electrical Demon Attacks Interior Light

Hey Folks,

Looks like the electrical demons have attacked my 2000 Grand Marquis. When I park the car and lock the doors at night, or anytime during the day, after a lengthy amount of time the interior lights come on as if a door was opened.

I checked all door settings to make sure they are closed. This has been occurring for several days now, but not necessarily consistently. The length of time from when I close/lock the doors till the light comes on has varied from what I have observed. Most of the time it's at least a 30-minute wait till the light comes to life.

Any advise or solution you may have is greatly appreciated. Do I need to find someone to perform a exorcism on my car or is this something I can chase after myself.

Thanks
Biz
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Old 01-16-2006, 15:11   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Electrical Demon Attacks Interior Light

This is the same problem I am having with my 92 grand Marquis. I have read that it may be the LCM (light control module) that needs replacing. Alternately, I hear that it may be the keyless entry control pad.

Before I tear in- or buy an expensive LCM I'd like to hear from anyone that has a better line on this.

Anyone...anyone?

Thanks,

Ed
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Old 01-16-2006, 20:27   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Electrical Demon Attacks Interior Light

From what I have read this is always caused by the drivers keypad. Replace that and your prob should go away. What happens is water gets into it from the window being openend. Eventually it starts to short out.
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Old 01-16-2006, 20:31   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Electrical Demon Attacks Interior Light

see this thread
2k gm headlights randomly come on
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Old 01-19-2006, 12:20   #5 (permalink)
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Problem solved... It is the pad, keyless , entry

Start with removing the bezel ring from arount the remote control stick for the mirror- use a pair of needle nose pliers if you don't have a spanner for this. Pry up the driver door/window console. I removed the door panel from My 92 GM. It lifts off in one section. Balance it on your knee and unplug all the connectors. Pry gently so you don't snap the retainers off. Push the driver door/window console through tke door panel. Put the seat panel out of the way till you can get the part back in. I make a drawing of the panel and push the screws through it for correct replacement later.

Peel back the left side of the waterproofing plastic at an angle from the top left of the door to about the bottom middle. Tuck connector wires into any nearby holes so they stay out of the way of a closing door.

The pad (keyless) should be blinking- if you have any juice left. Don't remove too many parts to get to it- all you need is a long-handled pair of channel locks or long nose pliers. There is a retainer on the back of the keyless entry pad. To get to it you need to roll the window all the way up. It helps to clean the dirt off of the bottom of the window inside the door to see the keyless pad and retainer. Lay on you back accross the seat with a small flashlight. Look into the area in the door above the exterior door handle and see the keypad. The l-shaped flat steele retainer slides into grooves in the keypad. Slide it forward- toward front of car) by wiggling it side-to-side and forcing it forward- I used a wide flat screwdriver blade to get it started- placing itbetween the keypad front end and the retainer and giving it a turn.

What you will end up with is a keypad with a pigtail and connector on about 3 feet of cable- multiple strands taped together- one of the ones you unplugged during door panel removal. There are 4 push-pin retainers taped along the assebmbly's harness- they match up with other harnesses in the the door wiring that control other systems. Free up the retainers as needed with needle noste pliers- push them back out. The final thing tha holds the keypad harness from being removed is a tape around retainer. It is located about 6 inches from the keypad's backside. The cable is taped to a wire near the keylock up high- its hard to get loose; but if to alternately pull on the keypad from the outside and the wire harness inside it wil pop off.

I called for the part locally. # Ford dealers in my city did not stock it; but could find the now discontinued (obsolete) part in a dealer parts search. I was quoted $124-130 in town. Found one online for $89; but a call to confirm got me the same story- "no got 'em... I can get it in in 3 days for $99. though".

Call around.

reinstall is the reverse.

Tips:

reseal the door plastic with some spray on gasket tack.
tape or wire the harness back in the same way it came out to avoid power window interferance. Grease the flat retainer and the rails of the new keyless pad to get the reatainer to go on smoothly-also the metal the retainer will need to slide on- less friction.
Tape connectors together if you broke the retainers off
give the door panel a good cleaning before you replace it- its easier to do a great job on a horizontal surface

Hope it helps
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Old 09-08-2006, 23:07   #6 (permalink)
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Hi EdPDX...just a note of thanks for taking the time to respond to this problem...don't have this issue with my '94 but sure appreciate your time and effort...
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Old 03-20-2007, 06:05   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Electrical Demon Attacks Interior Light

EdPDX,
I am going to change my keyless entry also. What do I have to reset with this task, and how? I'm hoping that it's pretty easy.

Thanks in advance,
Mech07
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Old 03-26-2007, 18:23   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Electrical Demon Attacks Interior Light

mech07. Just got back from Vegas today, sorry for the delay in responding. If you have not got this replacement in yet, the directions I gave are pretty complete I think. The computer seems to remember the code, so no need to reset. I had one lamp in the pad that did not ligt; but still worked... and you only missed it at night anyway.

Post and let us know how you make out.

PS remember to route the wire harness clear of the window so that it does not get pulled by the window going down after the wiring has a chance to shift and settle.

Good Luck
EdPDX
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