I'm about to install the AOD I just freshened up. It came from a (Captain's unit- easier miles) police cruiser and has roughly 30,000 miles since a rebuild. The gasket between the tailshaft and case was leaking pretty badly (a bolt was missing) and the torque convertor was blown. I also replaced the front and rear seals. I spent all day on it with a toothbrush and engine degreaser and finally assembled it after I felt satisfied with its progress. I'm going to paint it tomorrow (Friday) and install it between Saturday and Sunday (as long as the hurricane allows). I wish I had taken pictures before cleaning it, as the gunk was half an inch thick over most of the casing, but the camera batteries were dead. I'll be painting it black with a blue pan and dipstick tube. Hopefully, I'll have a B&M Megashifter and shift kit by the end of October, but we'll need to see how my paychecks hold up against my child support.
I'll post up more pics once I get it painted. If anyone has anything you'd like to say (recommended shifter, etc), feel free- I am always open to opinions.
Okay- this has been giving me trouble. I spent a lot of time removing it (alone) because everything was so disgusting from my oil leak that I was having trouble telling a bolt from a knuckle. However, I got it removed last Sunday and had to call it a day due to a failing shoulder.
Today I positioned the transmission for install, which was a job in itself. I had to carry it 20 yards across the driveway to the wagon, then slide it under the car while the jack (that was holding up the wagon, since my jackstands don't hold the car high enough to clear the transmission) was slowly losing its height (it's older than I). Then, I positioned the jack behind the transmission, lifted the transmission while laying under the car, and pushed the jack under it with my leg. If any of you have picked up an AOD, you know how hard that can be.
Then, I attempted to install the torque convertor, but my EGR piping from my true dual exhaust was too close to the transmission to fit the TC onto the shafts. I took care of that by placing a block under the tailshaft of the transmission, angling the front downward, which gave JUST enough space to slide the TC into place (if any of you swap a TC, be sure to wiggle/spin it until it clicks four times- and be sure to spin each input shaft to be sure they're seated all the way before installing the TC).
I had to call it a day after all that (even though it didn't take entirely too long) due to my back feeling as though I ripped it into two pieces from lifting and carrying the AOD so much (and I blew the fuse on the outlet that was powering my work light).
I have pictures of it after paint, but don't feel like posting them right now- I'll get them done tomorrow.
Oh man, doing a tranny job on the ground sucks!!! :( I hate to say this, but, this is the best time to take it to a shop. Its not worth the pain, you might get a better price having the old one out aswell. Plus if some thing goes wrong (i.e. you don't set the kick down right and burn the tranny in 50 miles) then the shop is liable. Find a tranny shop, use the jeep to tow the car to the shop, make sure to take all the parts :) With a hoist a tranny install is about 1-1/2 to 2 hours, then if it goes bad real soon, the shop fixes it most the time.
I've swapped transmissions before, so I know what I'm doing... just never done it alone. No local shops will warranty work if they don't provide the tranny and as I'm assuming most people know, replacement AODs cost $1800.
It's a pain and very time-consuming, yes, but it's worth it to do it myself. I will have this thing freshened up (new front/rear seals, tailshaft housing to case gasket, filter/pan gasket, and new fluid) and installed for $120. Taking it to a shop would require at least 3 hours of labor at $60/hour, putting the cost at nearly triple what I'm paying.
Besides- I get to say I installed an AOD alone, which is a cool factor in my opinion. Those who know what these weigh will think it's cool. Yes- I am a goober.
I have it on the jack under the car. After work tonight, I just need to lift it up and mount it to the block, then hook up everything. Shouldn't be TOO bad from here... but I tell you- the way they ran the true dual exhaust definitely makes it interesting squeezing this tranny between 2.5" pipes, catalytic convertors, and EGR tubing!
The transmission pan will be painted Ford Blue- hadn't done that, yet, once I took these.
Looks a lot better than it did, considering there was 1/2" of sludge covering the entire case. Just wait until I get pictures of the old transmission pan- CHUNKS of my overdrive band and pieces of the sprags all over it!!
Find a tranny shop, use the jeep to tow the car to the shop
I guess I forgot to mention that my Jeep is not functional at the moment? I'm getting what sounds like an intermittent rod knock (but rod knocking is rarely intermittent, leaving me room to hope I'm not entirely screwed on it)- haven't had the chance to get in there and diagnose it. It's a unibody, anyway- no chance it'd be capable of towing two tons!
None of those- they're easily accessible. Like I said, this isn't the first time I've done this, so I know the linkages, connectors, etc like the back of my hand- just never done it alone.
I finally got it into place, but the torque converter had come unseated, so it wouldn't mate to the block properly. I re-seated the torque converter, but I'm almost positive it's not going to mate up properly, again. Trying to figure out what I can do if this happens, again. I have a friend coming over to babysit for me Saturday morning so I can work on it some more and a guy is coming to help. I hope we can get it done. Once we get it mated up, it'll only take a max of 20 minutes to get the lines, crossmember, and linkages hooked up. Then, just install the pan gasket and fill 'er up!
Oh- to add to the lines, linkages, tailshaft, and crossmember (and top two bolts, of course), I have true dual exhaust with an H-pipe and it's completely legal. What does that mean? It means the transmission barely squeezes between the catalytic converters and EGR pipes and the EGR pipe goes from the driver side cat across the front of the transmission within 1mm of the bellhousing and the crossover in the H-pipe is RIGHT behind the tailshaft. So... it needs to be placed JUST right or it won't go up at all.
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