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Old 06-28-2009, 11:50   #1 (permalink)
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Getting the family '94 Grand Marquis.. a few questions

My mom bought a 2000 Grand Marquis and said she can give me the '94.. It's been a great car, we bought it when it was only a few years old and has had 250,000 problem free miles for the most part.

However.. now that it will be mine I want to address a couple things that haven't been serious enough for my mom to bother with. The first is that it pings and surges going up hill.. It's more than a pinging (although it does that too when lugging in OD up a steep hill when hot). It will buck kind of hard if you get on the throttle hard while in OD. Well a few years just after it first started, my dad took it to the local shop to ask if they knew what would cause it to do that and the mechanic said it sounded like a stuck solenoid. The mechanic came out and used a long screwdriver to tap on the solenoid, and that freed it. Oddly it was good for another couple years, but the problem did return. My dad can't remember where the mechanic tapped.. do any of you guys have any ideas? It has the 4.6L DOHC.

I'm going to have to do do at least a basic tune up on it, as nothing has been done for years. I'm planning on taking it on some less than ideal gravel roads in BC, and the last thing I'd want is a breakdown.

The last few years it's had a bit of an oil burning problem too. It will go through a quart of 10w30 every 300 to 500 miles. What oil would you guys recommend for it? I was thinking possibly 15w40 Rotella.

I should be able to pick up which cylinder(s) are burning oil by the looks of the plugs right? (they do have 50,000 miles on them afterall!) When I find out which cylinders are burning it, would it be best to do a leakdown test on them? I know if the compression remains poor during the leakdown with oil added to the cylinders it's the valves, and if the compression stays longer then the rings are shot. I'm just wondering how this would work on a V engine.. it seems like the oil would flow to the low part of the cylinder leaving 90% of the ring unsealed with oil. Is there any chance it could be the headgasket leaking oil into the cylinders?

These are the items I'm planning on replacing before I do a 2000 mile trip with it in a few weeks:

$87 - park plugs wires
$20 - spark plugs
$9 - fuel filter
$8 - air filter
oil/filter change
clean fuel injectors
seafoam
differential drain and refill
tranny flush
$3 - pcv valve
serpentine belt

Would any of you recommend Restore or Rislone? I know the dangers with them, when they dislodge chunks of carbon or oil build up and plug drain holes or the oil pump screen. I'd hope that these could free up the rings though. I'll probably also SeaFoam the car through the brake booster.

I hope that made sense, I pieced it together from other posts on a ford truck forum.

Any info helps, thanks.
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Old 06-28-2009, 12:19   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Getting the family '94 Grand Marquis.. a few questions

The <94 engines had valve seals that would leak and cause the oil burning. I'd bet that's what's doing the oil consumption problem. If the oil has been changed often, it should be clean and there's no need for Rislone and such.

As for the pinging, it probably has the EGR port plugged below the throttle housing. Try putting vacuum to the EGR when it's runnung and see if it runs rough or dies. If not, repair part of the system.

See how that does and post back.
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Old 06-28-2009, 18:20   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Getting the family '94 Grand Marquis.. a few questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtg143 View Post
The <94 engines had valve seals that would leak and cause the oil burning. I'd bet that's what's doing the oil consumption problem. If the oil has been changed often, it should be clean and there's no need for Rislone and such.

As for the pinging, it probably has the EGR port plugged below the throttle housing. Try putting vacuum to the EGR when it's runnung and see if it runs rough or dies. If not, repair part of the system.

See how that does and post back.
So my options for the valves would be to get new heads or to have them machined right? Which would be best and what's a rough estimate of the cost?

I'm not entirely sure what I need to do to test the EGR.. I was planning on getting a new EGR valve, but you think the passageway is clogged too?
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Old 06-28-2009, 20:11   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Getting the family '94 Grand Marquis.. a few questions

To change the valve seals, the heads don't have to come off. It does take a special tool to remove the rockers, and you need air pressure to hold the valves closed. I've done them in about 5 hours. Here's a link that shows how to do it. UBB Error - Crownvic.net

You have to be a member to read it but it's free.

The EGR passage does plug up on the older ones, especially when they use oil. That's not a big job either.
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Old 06-28-2009, 21:57   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Getting the family '94 Grand Marquis.. a few questions

Thanks, I'm looking forward to reading up on how to do it. I'm having problems logging into that website though. I've created the account and then checked my email for the activation code and clicked it. It now says "This account has not approved yet." Maybe an Admin has to approve it now?

With the EGR passage, do I just pull any chunks out and then use something abrasive on the walls? Any danger in knocking anything down the hole?
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Old 06-28-2009, 22:16   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Getting the family '94 Grand Marquis.. a few questions

The EGR has a groove in the intake below the throttle housing. (The piece that curves down into the intake.) You can reuse the gasket if you're careful with it. You just have to scrape the grooves with a screwdriver and use a vacuum to clean it out of the intake. Stick some rags in the hole to keep most of it out.
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:11   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Getting the family '94 Grand Marquis.. a few questions

+1 on the valve seals. I just did them in the '92 MGM I sold, but my hands stayed too oily to work the camera. Get the special tool to compress the springs & plug the head drains in case you drop a valve keeper.

+1 on the EGR passages. Don't grind or scrape the aluminum - just soak & wipe it after digging out the carbon. A new gasket is a few bucks from NAPA: MS14158.

Don't use heavy engine oil - even 10W30 is pushing it. I suggest going back to a good 5W30, like MotorCraft, Havoline, Castrol, or Valvoline. If you choose to switch to synthetic, monitor the oil level FREQUENTLY during the first few changes. It will leak until the seals re-condition to it.

The harsh shifting sounds like transmission problems. I had to have mine rebuilt, and then I swapped to the 4R70W, so I have a good AODE for sale if you need it.
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