This may save someone a headache..
My new to me 2006 Grand Marquis Ultimate would loose the ability to blow air from defrost, vent or floor after an hour of driving.
I went through the routine of doing the o rings in the eatc unit, checking for vacuum and fuses and it turned out to be the air conditioning compressor was running all the time and the condenser was freezing solid and blocking all airflow...
A simple relay should fix it up in no time..
I replaced the relay and now the compressor is cycling off and on like it should.. It seems like it's on a lot. Is there a downside to leaving the fuse pulled for the winter?
The A/C helps to remove humidity which helps to quickly defog your windshield and to keep it and the windows clear. Without it you'll find the side and rear windows will fog a lot easier and you'll need to keep your defroster on more frequently to keep your windshield clear. Its all about controlling the humidity inside your vehicle.
ok, even though it's cycling it still froze and blocked the airflow today, you mentioned the low pressure sensor Bert? I'm guessing I'll have to loose the charge to change that?
4 possibilities, low charge, blocked air flow, LP switch not opening, or bad expansion valve. I'm assuming that the airflow is sufficient, to check the charge, you'll need gauges. The expansion valve s a little tougher to check, we'll deal with that if the switch is functional. While the switch isn't cheap, it's much lower than an expansion valve. Since the switch still cycles the compressor, we'll assume that it still works, but possibly the spring is losing it's tensile strength. Under the connector, there's an adjustment screw on the switch, also, there's a pin in the female part of the switch which tells me that there is most likely a schrader core underneath so you shouldn't need to pull the charge if the switch can't be adjusted. Might want to invest in gauges, and\or a good thermometer. You want the switch to open above 40 degrees on the pipe or 45 from the vent. By turning the screw clockwise, it should tighten the internal spring which will require a higher refrigerant pressure to lift and close the switch. Good luck.
OK, I know it's been a while, but I finally got around to trouble shooting this and through the process of elimination it turned out to be the high pressure switch.. Thanx for the suggestions and help guys!
On to the dual exhaust conversion!
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