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Old 04-03-2008, 21:25   #1 (permalink)
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slow power windows

01 gmarquis with 2 slow moving power windows. i sprayed dry silcone lube down window channels to no avail. any suggestons appreciated before i remove door panels. what should i inspect & look for...thanks
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Old 04-04-2008, 20:57   #2 (permalink)
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Re: slow power windows

if you figure out the problem let me know i have a 02 grand marquis lse all 4 windows run real slow going up been this way since new took to dealer 5 times while under warrenty all they did was put silicon on glides
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Old 04-14-2008, 21:33   #3 (permalink)
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Re: slow power windows

Note that power windows generally run two, if not all four on the same circuit depending on the current. You should only notice a slow retracting window when you operate more than one at the same time. If the window slows down too much I'd get the charging system (battery/alt/ground connections) tested just to make sure the problem won't get worse and possibly affect other systems.

If I use more than one power window at the same time on my Dodge Durango (yes I know not a CV), they slow down due to the increased load on that circuit. You shouldn't have to add silicone to the glides. Most glides are plastic anyway and shouldn't need maintenance.
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Old 04-16-2008, 19:31   #4 (permalink)
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Re: slow power windows

Simple... Clean the contacts !
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Old 04-16-2008, 20:39   #5 (permalink)
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Re: slow power windows

Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTSteve View Post
Simple... Clean the contacts !
Check the link below on how to clean them.

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Access denied! story of my life lol
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'00 Durango R/T 360ci 290hp (modded); 138,500m
'06 Pontiac G6 GT 3.5L 220hp; 44,000m
'12 Chrysler 200 Limited 3.6L 283hp; 13,000m
'99 Taurus 3.0L 2V Vulcan 145hp; 154,300m - Traded
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Old 04-16-2008, 21:27   #6 (permalink)
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Re: slow power windows

Thanks largely to Derek, who clued me into this potential cause of my slow windows (applies to 2003+ CV/GMQ/MM), I removed the switch assembly from the LF door, cleaned it and the contacts, then verified the repair - works GREAT.

Photos of this project can also be found here: Window Switch Repair

Step 1: Remove the switch trim cover. To do this, you pry upward at the FRONT edge of the switch trim panel, then working rear-ward carefully release the clips on the side of the switch trim panel assembly (there are two). Once the front retainer, and the two side clips are free, GENTLY pull the panel slightly forward to release the rear catch which fits under the armrest. Below is a photo of how NOT to lift it, that is REAR FIRST! I broke the retaining tab, but was able to resecure it with instant adhesive - WHEW!



Step 2: Unplug the door harness from the switch assembly, and free the switch from the trim panel.



Step 3: Seperate the rockers from the switch body. This allows you to access and remove the switch contacts that are held in place by the actuators.

To seperate the rockers from the switch body, simply insert a small screwdriver under one side, and pry upwards on the other side of the rocker as shown. The "pop" right off.




Step 4: To access the actuators it is necessary to first remove the top portion of the switch body cover. There are either two or three "tabs" on each side of the switch body that hold the top and bottom halves to the middle section. You want to remove the TOP cover as there is no need ot benefit to removing the lower cover.




Step 5: Remove the actuators from their mountings. Note: The actuators are designed to be installed only one way, do not force them back into the holder. Ensure the side with TWO NUBS goes to the outside edge of the holder. Also, the actuator for the driver's window is unique, do not confuse it's location. Also, while unlikely, it is possible for the pins that fit into the actuators to fall out of the actuator bore. There are small springs under them to help maintain even pressure on the switch contacts. Use caution so as not to loose any of the springs or pins or the switch will cease to function properly. They stay in place without any problem in most cases.



Step 6: With the actuator off, you can carefully remove one switch contact bar at a time for inspection. All I needed to do was to lift upward on one end, then pull the bar free as there are no clips ot tabs to hold it down. I then inslected each contact in turn, and cleaned any carbon deposits off by gently scraping the contacts with a small straight-blade screwdriver. You can see what burned contacts look like:




Cleaned contacts:



At this point, after all contacts have been removed and inspected, ONE AT A TIME, you are ready to re-install the top cover on the switch body. I throughly cleaned the switch cover, rockers, and trim before reassembly.



With the repaired switch assembly plugged into the driver's door harness and the key in the "ACC" position, I verified proper window and door lock functions before installing the switch assembly back into the door panel.

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Old 04-17-2008, 09:39   #7 (permalink)
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Re: slow power windows

That's a great step-by-step! Thanks for the post
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'06 Pontiac G6 GT 3.5L 220hp; 44,000m
'12 Chrysler 200 Limited 3.6L 283hp; 13,000m
'99 Taurus 3.0L 2V Vulcan 145hp; 154,300m - Traded
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Old 07-22-2008, 18:28   #8 (permalink)
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Re: slow power windows

There is also a TSB that discusses adjusting the channels (loosen them up) by adjusting the bottom of the forward track of each. There is a nut to loosen and then move the track slightly because it is binding. I do not remember the TSB number but I read it and the procedure fixed the problem on my 97.
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:07   #9 (permalink)
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Re: slow power windows

cool...new to the forum, but, i have found lots of good help from this site...this will help me because i have slow windows as well...in addition though they have an offal squeek too...the silicone lube may help???
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