Ford Crown Victoria | Mercury Marauder | Grand Marquis | P71Forum for discussion of the Ford Crown Victoria, Mercury Marauder, Mercury Grand Marquis and P71.
The springs I have are in need of replacing, not desperate, but needs to be done. I also want to make the ride a bit stiffer(especially the rear). For me handling is more important than ride comfort. I did the shocks about a month ago(gabriels, I was broke) and it helped quite a bit.
I can get almost any brand of anything, so finding parts isn't an issue. Any reccomendations on springs? I'm looking for higher rates over stock, and durability, then price. I'll save up if I have to.
A few people told me to throw some spring rubbers/spring boosters in until I can do the springs. A co worker of mine has a 90 GM, put the boosters in. I got to drive the car before and after and I do notice a bit of an improvement, especially on launch.
Most auto parts sell them in the towing section, and they are about 5.50 - 7.50 after tax. Any one use theese things before? I think my pop may have in our old CV, but that was a long time ago. I wouldn't expect huge improvements from $.30 worth of hard rubber, but every bit helps.
I took a peek at the thread. Very useful info. Starting to think I should go with the wagon springs. Unless I can find something higher, for the rears. Most of my driving is realativly low speed(35-50 mph) with a lot of twisting and turning. I've also have a tendency to load the trunk up with a lot of stuff, usually when my friends and I hit the woods for a weekend.
No problem, sir! I'd actually suggest joining up on that forum as well...lots more tech for the "box" body cars than here, and more traffic in general. My name there is the same as my name here; tell 'em I sent ya!
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1989 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
2bbl Carbureted 351W V8, ported and polished E7TE heads, Edelbrock cam
AOD Transmission with B&M Shift Kit
3.55:1 Positraction Rear Axle Visit My Car Domain Account Here Updated 1/27/07!
Engine blew up on me on my last delivery of the night. Stalled out right in front of the office, popped the hood and a thick cloud of blue smoke and steam came belching out.
What really sucks is that I had just topped it of with oil about a hour prior, and water two hours before that. But this florida heat, the way I drive at work and the cars age just killed it. Took a look at it last night, and it's pain full to look at. What's obvious: Blown head gaskets and the front main bearing is shot. Needless to say I'm not a happy camper.
I got a good run out of it, considering I was the first owner since '96 to do any kind of maintenence on it. When I got it, the air fiter hadn't been changed in four years, plugs and wires where going on five years, the oil had just been allowed to leak out before being refilled(this whent on for about four years also.) Hell, about two months ago was the first true oil change it had seen since the new millenium.
All told however, it's not all bad. The tranny was rebuilt about a year ago, the body is still in ok shape, and the suspension, while not exactly to my liking, is still fine.
The real bitch is that nobody for 150 miles sells spare parts from cars older than '95 any more. They just crush them. That and the only 5.0 engines I can find are already souped up to 3-400 HP and cost more than I make in a year.
Ok. Never mind the last post. I missed the editting window.
Turns out I should never let my brother diagnose an engine problem. The only problem I have is a hideously leaky cooling system. It's not holding coolant at all. Luckily it looks like it stalled before any major damage was done(I hope). It's not blowing any smoke or steam, there's no coolant in the oil. The only problem is that it leaks so bad that it's dry in only a few minutes.
I'm having to McGuyver a lot of things to patch up some of the leaks.
Good deal, man. Spend the $40 and replace all the coolant hoses. It'll be worth it. I can't tell you how many times I was halfway between college and home (five hour trip) when things broke on me with my old Vic wagon. The hard one to replace if you have A/C set-up is the bypass hose behind the A/C bracket.
Good luck, let us know if you have any more questions.
I'm in the process of bypassing the coolant rail that runs over the top of the intake. The only place I've found one is a dealership, and they're all telling me the same thing: $400 and three weeks wait for them to get it.
Screw that. Some hose, the propper Tee fitting and some clamps and I'm GTG. I've seen the same thing on 5.0 stangs and trucks.
There's still going to be a small leak, behind the water pump, but thats a really slow leak. Used to be the only leak in the system, and it would hold water for about a week and a half of hard driving, in florida heat.
All thats left is easy stuff. I still won't have heat, I don't have the patience to do the heater core. Some of the work for the heater core is done though, I already pulled the dash pad(was going to cover it in cloth)
Don't mind me I'm just ranting, everything seems to be going to hell all at once.
This is true. I mean, the tranny is still good for now, and the suspension is ok, and an engine swap is easy to do, I just need a frikken engine to drop in.
Imma talk to this guy across the street from where I work. He's got an old ford truck on his lot, hasn't run in some time, but if the block is still solid I just may have a project. If I'm going to do a total rebuild though, I'm going carbed. No more of fuel injected crap.
If I get lucky and that motor turn out to be a cleveland I'll sell the mf'er. Clev's are nice but I'd rather have the thicker walls of the windsor. I might sell it if it's a 302.
No matter what I get, I'm gonna over build the SOB. It'll be a daily driver built like a race engine. Everything forged and lightened. I figure if it's built to hadle the worst, it should make a pretty solid DD. Plus, should I decide to mod it out, Some of the work is already done.
Forgive me, I've got a bed head cold and I'm on some serious NyQuil right now, so I may rant a bit...
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