Re: Sway bar removal
Just went through this trying to locate the rear-end clunk on my car. I don't recommend removing the sway-bar long term. The handling of the car is much less predictable, at least with my car without the sway-bar.
Replacing the end-links is a piece of cake, and you should replace them in pairs (though it sounds like you don't have a choice).
1. get the rear end of the car in the air and on stands, with the rear wheels removed (be sure both rear wheels are off the ground, otherwise the sway-bar will be under tension and could cause injury when you do the next step).
2. use a deep well socket to unbolt the lower end-link nut(don't remember what size) the sway-bar may spring down a bit when you undo the first one.
3. Use a open-ended wrench on the top end-link nut and a pair of pliers to hold the end-link while you unbolt it.
4. the end-link should be out now, so repeat steps 2&3 on the other side.
5. with the Raybestos brand end-links that i used, instead of having a nut on both ends, it is one long bolt. the order of assembly of these is: washer, bushing then put it through the hole in the frame, then bushing, washer, metal spacer sleeve, washer, bushing, sway-bar, bushing, washer, and finally the nut.
I got the parts at RockAuto for $20 a pair, so it's not an expensive fix.
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS ~89,000mi, Willow Green inside and out. It's very green.
1998 Chevrolet Malibu Base V6 187,000mi (sold)