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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-29-11, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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96 e250 egr valve

Any tips on pulling that out? I can't get anything to the bolt on the exhaust manifold. I need to clean it out. I think the carbon build up is making my engine studder and die when coasting to a stop.

It's the 5.8 v6

These are the codes I got:

o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1
pw sensor bank 2 sensor 2
EGR flow insufficient
DPFE monitor low voltage

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-01-11, 10:30 AM
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Re: 96 e250 egr valve

no thats your stall converter. pull the tranny and replace the torque converter. Very Very common thing for the E250's. I rebuilt the tranny on one last summer, and had the torque converter replaced and it fixed the problem, but I am thinking now that the rebuild may have not been necassary.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-02-11, 02:02 PM
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Re: 96 e250 egr valve

The 5.8L is a V8, and its EGR doesn't clog up. The pipe will crack & leak, but the valve is almost too big to clog. The PFE/DPFE sensor might be bad, or its hoses might be blocked/leaking/disconnected, but the most-likely cause of that code is a vacuum leak in the GN hard line, or a bad EVR.

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-03-11, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 96 e250 egr valve

Replaced the torque converter a little over a year ago. It's not the same studder.

What's the GN line? Help me understand my manual. The EVR valve is basiclly the electroninc part that conrols how much exhaust to let into the engine right? It gets it's reading from the dpfe?

I replaced the dpfe and saw that it's the ref line that is clogged. I cleaned out the little 3" rubber hose and sprayed some carb cleaner into the metal line to clean it out. The metal part is attached to the pipe that goes straight down from the egr valve to the exhaust manifold. I don't think the actual valve is clogged but at least the opening and pipe may have some carbon. Mainly I need to clean that ref line. It's telling the computer that hardly any exhaust is being used so it's adding more. That's leaning out my mixture which is causing the studder (detonation/pre-ignition). It's also causeing my engine to shut off everytime I coast to a stop. I can't get a wrench to that big bolt at the bottom of the pipe which is attached to the exhaust manifold.

If I tap that pipe and valve it seems to break loose some of the carbon and I can drive around for about a day without the enginge shutting off.
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