I drove it to work Thursday - when I came out to go home, it wouldn't start - just crank.
I checked and there as no spark
I'd had the exact same issue before and resolved it by replacing the dist. I know the distrib on this model has a weak design so I replaced it, but still no luck.
The rotor turns, I checked the fuses and the relay - all ok.
I was checking voltage on the yellow/blue-stripe wire at the dist and I noticed, when my daughter turned on the key this time, a fan or motor started somewhere that I hadn't heard before.
For grins I had her turn it over and magically it started! I drove it home, shut it off, it restarted fine. I drove to the gas station -restarted fine, walmart - fine, drove to church, and when I came out to go home, it wouldn't start. I went back that night (rode with my wife) and just for grins jumped in and gave it a try and it started! I drove it home, tried to restart it, and it hasn't restarted since.
I checked the inertia switch - assuming that is a square box mounted to the fender wall on the drivers side trunk near the tail light, with a rubber button that might have once been red - it seemed to be already depressed.
With the key in the on position, the fuel cutout light is on but I don't know if that is normal when the engine isnt running, or if that would prevent spark.
On this car, coil, ignition module, everything (practially) is built into the distrib, so I've already changed most of the things you would normally go for.
So I'm not sure where to go from here. When it runs, it runs fine
If there's no spark, I wouldn't worry about the inertia switch. That only shuts the fuel pump. There's either a poor connection in the circuit or the distributor is going bad again. Is there a warranty on it? Make sure to check the grounds too.
Do you have a Haynes or Chiltons manual? They can help in more than this. The Chiltons usually has netter wiring diagrams. Your library might have one. Wiring is tough even on some mechanics. Just follow the harness and see if you see any wires rubbed through or a groung to the engine or body that might be corroded. Have you tried a coil?
I do have a Haynes, but before I start tearing the harness apart, does anyone have any additional thoughts - especially on the fuel cutout? I had heard or read on one of the other forums that it can kill the spark, but I don't know - if that is correct at all - if that applies to my specific model.
And did I correctly identify the cutout switch? Is it mounted to the inside fender of the drivers-side trunk area between the tail light and wheel well (closer to the taillight) with a rough description of a black box about 3x2x4 with a slightly smaller than dime-size rubber button (ish) protrusion on top. You have to pull the carpet back and kind of pull the plastic side-wall out a little to get to it?
I'd hate to spend hours out in the freezing cold and snow just to find out that the switch was intermittent.
The cutoff switch only guts the fuel pump. It's in the line to the pump and when it pops, the shuts power ONLY to the fuel pump. It has another circuit to a light in the dash. The ignition is not affected. That is the switch location that you mentioned.
OK I've started trying to troubleshoot this at the wire level.
Unfortunately my haynes schematics dont seem to match my configuration.
The vehicle is 4cly 93 2L Auto Tran:
The coil and ignition module are both in the dist.
The dist has 2 connectors a 3-pin and a 6 pin
According to the Haynes Mazda626 & MX-6 / Ford Probe 1993-2001 manual (61042), the auto tran of the above description has separate coil, etc from dist,: The Manual tran has the integral:
This would be fine if I could just ignore the titles and use the other schematics, but the color codes also don’t match
On the 3-pin, with the clip-notch up, and assuming left is pin 1, the colors are:
Yellow/Blu (Blu stripe)
With the connector unplugged, there is voltage on the Black/Yellow and no other – assumably then, this is the line to the ignition switch.
With the connector plugged in, there is voltage on all 3 connectors.
On the 6-pin connector, with clip-notch up, and assuming left pin is 1, the colors are:
Black/Red (Red Stripe)
(All colors are subject to lighting, eyes, dirt, etc.)
With the connector in or out only Red/Black has voltage (detectable by test light)
Does anyone have the skinny on correct schematics, or have any ideas on the problem?
OK, So looking at the diagram, it looks like I shoud be able to safely ground pins A and E on the 6-Pin, directly at the distributor to eliminate the possibility of bad grounds along either of these paths. Is this correct?
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