Please tell me more about this adjustable S5 solenoid for EA-ED's. I have never heard of it (probabarly because i'm not that good with trannies!).
See the thing is I want my tranny to be rough and tough shifting, but a lot of places dont even know about this stuff because everyone wants smooth gear shifting....
So are you saying that you dont need a new chip for this solenoid?......
PLEASE TELL ME MORE!!!
P.S. to Lukey........ I rang up a few diff places to get some info and quotes, I might end up getting a 3.90:1 (around 2600rpm at 100kph) which brings the theoretical top speed down to 192kph (still above the speed limitator) down from a theoretical top speed of 277kph.
heheheheheeh, well i've got a 4 speed, it h8 the way it changed its has harsh as all shit, but i think the main prob wif it is that its about f*&d. i'm in the go of gettin anoter engine MPFI and 5 speed for the wagen.. and then i will have ot get rite of the auto and engine.... but i woudl rather a smooth shifin gearbox, its way nicer, if i drive it hard i always i know i have cos my neck is caining me.
Hmmm - probably best to get BOOSTs input also - mine was only a stocky rebuild with OEM bits and updates and a stocky rebuilt convertor (not kevlar bands etc , actually, I'm not sure if there are "HD" bits for these boxes..) as in my opinion it lasted almost quarter of a million k's (209K) behinfd a 5L (one of the first windsors off the production line !!!!) so theres nothing inherently wrong. The updates are minor valve body things and a bigger clutch drum (C4 drum i think ??) etc If your in Sydney try giving Advanced Automatic Transmissions a call 02 9831 8253, although there will be others, Vince has always done the right thing by me, and although he is a Ford man (and drives a Ford), he also does good GM work (also did my Camaro trans with corvette servo, shift kit etc!)
One thing i didnt do when i needed an auto rebuild was ring around, but i think you may be able to get a "cheaper" job if you chased up a taxi repairer ! I preferred to get everything done that needing doing, not just one band and a clutch pack or two and maybe a bearing or thrust washer. I only want to pay ONCE !! (You get what you pay for, generally speaking...)
Oh yeah - apparantely a common thing is the auto cooler in the radiator breaking up and letting bits of crap go into the trans. Anyone else heard this ?? Mine was bypassed (radiator bit) and only goes thru the standard XR8 auto trans cooler (same as 6 pack towing pack auto cooler)
Also - you WILL get sick and tired of chirping everywhere if its a daily driver ! I had mine turned up too hard for a while, and had it backed off so it WOULDNT chirp. The missus doesnt like it (neither does the diff or uni joints !) and its deadly in the wet !!
Trust me - just changing/adjusting S5 can change a smooooth shifter into a nice firm one. Its ALMOST progressive in that its firmer at every throttle opening, ie very low throttle like in peak hour stop start traffic will be a little "bumpier", especially if its set to "brutal". My suggestion is to just firm up the shifts so the box runs cooler and lasts longer (less overlap or "slipping" between shifts = less heat and less wear, BUT "firmer" shifts) Remeber, Ford originally had to compromise. We dont ALL want to drive Fairymont Ghias ! The valve is apparently very hard to adjust (something like a quarter turn is the difference between Smooooth and BRUTAL ??) Best of luck !
it was BOOST that had "all that transmission work" done. Mine was "just" a standard V8 reco box, (but i mean FULL reco) and reco torque convertor. $1500 drive in - drive out (I couldnt be bothered getting dirty... and 40K/2yrs warranty))
Universal joints (Uni joints) are the cross shaped things at each end of thre tailshaft. My point is if you want your fillings shaken out and want to wear a kidney belt, turn that S5 up !! Its like having a manual and being brutal on the clutch ALL the time - eventually the driveline will let you know its had enough (Metal fatigues, an unfortunate ireversable fact...)
Drive in/drive out on the S5 solenoid was $190, but if you want it adjusted softer/harder later, It depends on how much the dude wants to charge you for dropping the pan, giving it a tweak, and refilling the trans. Just remember its not an EXACT science for the S5 adjustment, theres not much adjustment between nice and firm, and FIRM and VERY firm, and SLAM/BANG/CHIRP !
Sounds like things are in the production line for you.This S5 solenoid is the devise used to increase the line pressure I was talking about.I think on earlier BTR boxes you don't need one of these as the solenoids have the screws on them anyway.I'l just double check this with one of my mates who builds Ford boxes day in and out.With regards to your diff gears the rev range might be a pain in the ass at highway speeds,but if its top speed across the line then thats what it might take.Have you talked to anyone who drag races,yet it might be a good idea to get it from the horses mouth.Another thing to think about a mate of mine has a very worked ET Pulsar I think its the 3rd fastest street running a 13.8 with 165kw at the wheels "Ballzey",then there are a couple of others that run 14.3 but the catch is the 13.8 pulsar has a slower 60 foot time then the 14.3.He raced a GSR Lancer it ran a 13 flat I think,But the flip side is that on the highway with rolling starts,60km/h,80km/h,100km/h,120km/h the little pulsar that ran the 13.8 blew its doors off everytime.So in the real world its a better street car but on the strip its not as good.The point is that it might be quicker but the pulsar has a better top end which helps on the street.These are points you should think about with regards to overall power range,torque convertor stall and drive ability.
My 4 speed transmission is really slow when shifting between 2nd and 3rd. What I mean is that the clutches are disengaged for quite a long time before it engages to third gear. Sometimes the engine even revs out a bit because its so slow.
Every other gear is really good, you can't even feel it changing. Can this problem be fixed by the S5 solenoid or is it one of the other solenoids causing this ( S2,S3)?
Once it is engaged into 3rd there is no slipping of the clutches so I know that the clutches are good.
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