I am just wondering... on average how much power is lost during the transfer from the fly wheel to the rear wheels? and what are some ways of reducing this loss if any
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'92 NC Ghia, 302w 123.9kw at the wheels, dead stock. Peacock Green. Lots of woodgrain and velour
Tint, Mags (17x8 ROH RT's 235/45), Sunroof, Alarm/Immobliser, GM-X624 Amp, DEH-P8250 H/U, Alpine 2x6 1/4" rear, 6"splits in doors, 1" tweeters in dash.
"You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you."
I am just wondering... on average how much power is lost during the transfer from the fly wheel to the rear wheels? and what are some ways of reducing this loss if any
Depending on transmission (auto or manual) anywhere from 25% to 35% is acceptable loss.
There's to many variables, auto's do loose more than manual's but just how much is the anwser, everybody has there own ideas but I'm with Casper on this one.
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AU II XR8
Herrod mod's,mmmn.
XW Wagon 221-2V,
Laser a maser.
are there anyways to reduce this loss? manual ofcourse.... what about different engine parts which offer less friction etc and does the diff ratio have anything to do with the loss?
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'92 NC Ghia, 302w 123.9kw at the wheels, dead stock. Peacock Green. Lots of woodgrain and velour
Tint, Mags (17x8 ROH RT's 235/45), Sunroof, Alarm/Immobliser, GM-X624 Amp, DEH-P8250 H/U, Alpine 2x6 1/4" rear, 6"splits in doors, 1" tweeters in dash.
"You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you."
yes and no.. unless you want to pull the engine out and put it on an engine dynometer to get the flywheel output, then try different clutches, oils, tailshafts etc but it is really like a dog chasing its tail.. RWHP is the figure that matters,
you could in theory dyno a car with a T5 and 'x' oil then a Supra 5sp etc.. bottom line is just get more output from the engine to compensate
The general standard accepted drivetrain loss in rear wheel drive cars is 18% for manuals and 20 - 22% for automatics. At 35%.. the drivetrain components would be on fire.
The general standard accepted drivetrain loss in rear wheel drive cars is 18% for manuals and 20 - 22% for automatics. At 35%.. the drivetrain components would be on fire.
I wont even dignify that crap with an answer Steffo. Go to a dyno shop, ask the question. Once agian, your book learning fails miserably compared to reality.
I wont even dignify that crap with an answer Steffo. Go to a dyno shop, ask the question. Once agian, your book learning fails miserably compared to reality.
Yes, and the 18% and 20-22% I read was from a engineer in the UK. There should not be any difference no matter where in the world you are. Of course, we do tend to use DynoDynamics here with that idiotic software that "adjusts" the power output to be "accurate". This however, is one of the most innacurate ways possible to measure power output. Not that dyno output should be used to determine anything other then engine tuning. I'd not use a dyno sheet to brag about anything, it's about accurate as putting a blindfold on someone, spinning them around several times, and expecting them to throw a dart into the centre of a dart board they can't see.
When I go home, I'll get the links to all my information on this topic.
LOL @ casper. Relax a little bit, stop jumpin down the kids throat :/
I will when he stops talking crap and expecting people to buy it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steffo
Yes, and the 18% and 20-22% I read was from a engineer in the UK. There should not be any difference no matter where in the world you are. Of course, we do tend to use DynoDynamics here with that idiotic software that "adjusts" the power output to be "accurate". This however, is one of the most innacurate ways possible to measure power output. Not that dyno output should be used to determine anything other then engine tuning. I'd not use a dyno sheet to brag about anything, it's about accurate as putting a blindfold on someone, spinning them around several times, and expecting them to throw a dart into the centre of a dart board they can't see.
When I go home, I'll get the links to all my information on this topic.
ok, so first you say that it is within a 4% tolerance (18% to 22%) and then you say its as accruate as spitting into the wind! Make up your mind. Fact is that 25% - 35% is considered acceptable loss by AUSTALIAN dyno shops using, in the most case, Dynodynamics. We are not in England or the US. As for it being the same world wide, thats crap anyhow. Its not the same from car to car or day to day. There are far too many factors in the real world. Things like exhaust, transmission, tyre pressure, temp, how tight the car is strapped down. There is just no way you can put up a set of numbers like 18% for manuals and 22% for autos. You mean to tell me an old XF 3 speed auto will have the same loss as a BA V8 4 speed auto? Get real. Forget the books Steffo, they are a guide only and usually full of personal bias etc. Go to a dyno shop, watch cars on the dyno, put yours on there and see what you can learn.
As for the drivetrain being on fire at 35%......I have no idea what you are talking about... thats just the most ignorant comment I've heard in ages.
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