ram3500v8

I have a '86 Bronco II, 2.9l v6, it won't start.

The Fuel pumps are new and pump fuel. Pretty much everything to do with the sparks are new; distributer/cap/electronic ignition module, ignition coil, solenoid, battery.

I had it running good after a lot of new parts: starter, power steering pump, muffler, some shocks, power booster. The transmission was acting up so it sat for a few months. A friend of my dad's did some work and fixed some gears and gaskets, and the transmission. Now it won't start!

The fuel relay is broken but i used a wire to bypass it for testing, the fuel pumps kick on and i am getting ~40 psi. When i unplugged the inertia switch the pumps won't turn on when I go through the same procedure. So I am thinking that the inertia switch is working. So basically the fuel injectors are not letting gas into the engine.

I don't think that all these injectors would break at the same time. I was reading somewhere that the Power-train Control Module could be causing this. So I was wondering if this might be the issue, and where is the module?(someone has both my manuals). I want to get the module tested.

Also if you know anything else that could be causing this issue it would be much appreciated.

Thanks in Advance.

847alexc

Well, before we get to wild with testing computers and such, lets try some of the cheap basics. It sounds like you have a lot of new parts, and it could simply be the sitting around that has prevented this thing from starting.

First, spend 3 bucks on a can of starting fluid (with upper cylinder lubricant). What can happen over time when a car sits is the oils that would normally seal the rings to the cylinder will run down into the crank case, leaving the cylinder dry. This is then made worse when fresh gas is shot during an engine fuel flood event (washed cylinders as its called). While some people will go so far as to put oil in the cylinder with a drip can, a little starting fluid should help us diagnose some issues.

If the car starts (or at least trys to start) when you spray some starting fluid, then we might rule out any fuel delivery problems, especially with a good pressure test. Then its a matter of checking the air and spark.

It sounds lame, but make sure that mice didn't build a nest in your intake while the car was sitting. Cheap to check.

Finally is spark. Did the wires go to the correct places after the tune up? did a spark plug accidentally get the tip messed upon instalation? how about the timing.

While it could be an of these, I am willing to bet that simply sitting for a period of time will give you some serious troubles at first. try the starting fluid and get back to us, I am just curious to see what the outcome was.

ram3500v8

When we were working on it we sprayed starting fluid in the air intake, it started and we ran it for a couple seconds from the starter fluid. The truck was running the same day that my dad's friend did the work. He changed a valve cover gasket, maybe when he did that he caused a wire to short out (some of the wire insulation is really frail). I might end up having to get a new wiring harness.

Also the power train control module is not really testable, i would have to take it to a diagnostics garage(~$100) or have the bronco towed to a ford dealership(+$100). I am thinking that it might have some codes that need to be cleared, if that is possible or a wire somewhere is bad(grounding on some metal).

Bert

Here's how you can test for codes with a test light. Read the lower part of the page. Ford Ranger/Bronco II EEC-IV Testing

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Bert

ram3500v8

There is either no codes or I wasn't checking the codes right. My voltmeter just stayed in one spot. I have fuel but it basically wont go through the injectors. Anything that might cause this?

Bert

Try it again because there would habe to be pulses to show all is okay between continuos and memory codes.

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Bert

ram3500v8

Here is a video of my testing procedures, can you tell me what i am doing wrong?

Bert

You have to turn the key on. Here's another site that may help explain it better. FORD 1983-1995 OBD1 Decoder

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Bert

ram3500v8

I re-ran the test with the key on, and the voltmeter just read 3.3v instead of 12 when the key is off. Both of those pages with the testing instructions say to warm up the engine, I can not do this because the it wont start. I don't know if i fried something, but now I can't get the fuel pumps to kick on. Right now I'm taking shots in the dark.

Bert

Are all the fuses good? There should have been pulses. Maybe the ECU is bad. Maybe not. If you did rhe test as per instructions, you've done about all I'm able to recommend. Is there a good shop around there that you can trust?

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Bert