90/93 Bronco - Ford Forums

AmericanMuscle · 03-22-2004, 23:26

Hey guys, I'm new here and looking for a little help. I'm looking for a used Ford Bronco and I've narrowed it down to a few choices. I've done quite a bit of reading but I'm looking for some "live" feed back. Is there enough of a difference between a 1990 and a 1993 Bronco to warrant spending the extra money to get a 93? And if so, how much more would you spend to get it? Thanks.

'92BigBronco · 03-23-2004, 09:35

There are quite a few differences but nothing major. If I were going to purchase another one, I would definitely go with the 93 if I could afford it, provided it was well maintained. I would recommend spending the $80-100 to have them both checked out by an ASE certified mechanic. Most shops offer some sort of buyer inspection deal and it's well worth the price.

AmericanMuscle · 03-23-2004, 18:07

Thanks for the quick reply, would you spend $1000 (american) more to get the 93?

89F150 · 03-23-2004, 23:15

I guess it depends on the actual vehicle whether you spend an extra $1000. Being a 90 or 93, there both going to be used vehicles, so both are going to have different histories. If you looked at a 90 model bronco and it was ill treated and then went and saw a 93 and it was in better condition, of course you will pay the extra amount. It all depends on the actual vehicle. Shop around and see what you can find for the best value for your dollar.

miesk5 · 03-26-2004, 15:52

Some changes:
1992: realized the last major body restyling in the Bronco's lifespan. This change offered much more swept front sheetmetal that curved in at the fenders. Power window/lock controls moved up the doorpanel towards the top to make them more accessible. Power mirrors are now offered for the first time. Rear passengers are restrained via integral shoulder/seat belts. Colored stripe in the tailgate bezel is changed from red to black. Leather seating is now an option on XLT and Eddie Bauer trim levels. Ford also offered the NITE option package, for only this year. The package was all black, including the top. Special graphics were applied.

1993: brought the end of the 300 CID I-6. 4-wheel anitlock brakes were now standard. Transfer case was now a New Process model 200 with low range of 2.69.
source is http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/faq.html#1993

OK, so if you want to take the top off for cruising, the 92+ rear seat integral shoulder/seat belts would need to be removed as well as the 3rd brake light...some police have a big problem with this..esp in NJ (state pol. barracks 2 miles from my home, sooo), but you may be ok.
........
Here is what I can advise, based on personal experiences with our 96 that we bought new and have "over" maintained:
Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - ours formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/POR 15 or Restore (NAPA, etc.)
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - ours leaked @ 50k miles
- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96, so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids should have been changed every 30k miles; and less if used for towing
- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area.
- auto hub operation (get it in sand, snow or mud and try the 4x4 system; or mark the driveshaft w/chalk or tape and see if it moves when in 4x4 for a short drive; ours blew @ only 30 k miles despite freq. maint.)
- rust in inner rear fender lips and bottom of tailgate (fender lips was rusting due to beach sand wearing the paint)
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I spray em w/pure silicone, from day 1)
- ball joints
- PSOM, make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds..costly to replace
- cracked exhaust manifold/y etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve on MTA system

See if you can get it to a mechanic for a compression check, code checks and other inspections if you don't diy; neglected vehicles are costly to repair, esp. 4x4's as you seem to know...

good luck!
Al
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/miesk5/