2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars
Ford Forum Ford Forum

» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
ยป Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars > Ford Cars and PAG Vehicles > Ford Taurus | Mercury Sable | Ford Taurus SHO | 1986-2007
Register Home Forum Active Topics Photo Gallery Auto Loans Garage Mark Forums Read Auto Escrow

Ford Taurus | Mercury Sable | Ford Taurus SHO | 1986-2007 Forum for discussion of the Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable and Ford Taurus SHO. Covers vehicle years: 1986-2007

FordForums.com is the premier Ford Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-19-2014, 23:36   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 7
2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank

this post is long, but it is detailed as i'm having some real issues here.

I'm having some real issues here, I'll start by giving a bit of background.

Hate on me if you must, but wal-mart gave me a different spec of battery than my old one. Considering this was night-time and in the middle of a snow-storm, and I was trying to get to work I thought little of changing out the battery. I put the new one in and turns out it was backwards. It was only in for a few seconds.

Fast forward a week or two.
I ended up replacing the alternator because a load test alerted me to a "bad voltage regulator". I still ended up having to troubleshoot charging issues, and my park lights, horn, radio, and door locks, didn't work. The ABS light was on as well.

After changing the alternator and all the blown fuses I was still having issues with I ended up with the following problems:

Charging light on, still testing a bad voltage regulator
Park lights setting/autolamp setting blowing fuse 27 (autolamp circuit)
No radio
Intermittent inside door locks not functioning (keypad still worked)

I did a drop test and checked all the wires in the charging system and found the master fuse (175A megafuse) to be the issue. I replaced it and one other fuse that had blown in the battery junction box and I was left with the following symptoms:

Autolamp/Park lamp setting blowing fuse 27
No radio
Intermittent inside door locks function (this would change based on disconnecting and reconnecting the battery at times).
3-5 second delay in the engine starting from when I turned the ignition to the "start" position.

Over the next couple weeks I studied the wiring diagrams and decided to do some electrical troubleshooting. I traced the autolamp circuitry problem to the switch and have ordered a new one to replace it that will be here soon. By jumping the two pins (pin 31 and 34) on connector 270b I was able to get my park lamps to function without blowing the fuse. Essentially I bypassed the switch (which I'm not so certain was the smartest thing to do at the moment). I hooked a 15A toggle up to give me intermittent function of lights and left it set to the OFF position and tried to start the car. At this point the car would not crank and I had the following issues:

The High/Lo indicator was blinking on and off as if it was getting varied amounts of voltage.
None of the Cluster Indicator lights turned on except the "flashing" High/Lo indicator and the anti-left. The PATs light was functioning as it should.

I disconnected my battery and let it sit over night. The next morning I drove it home (I was at a friend's garage) and I had the following symptoms:

No break lights/turn signals/park lights
No cluster lights
No gauge functions except the fuel gauge

When I went to start the car about an hour after getting home to go to school it would not crank. I traced the voltage back and found the starter to be working by jumping the solenoid and that the solenoid wasn't getting voltage. Now here are the symptoms I'm left with after checking for blown fuses:

Car will not crank
I am able to turn the ignition into the "start" position in any gear. I have tried to crank the car in multiple gears and it has not made any difference. The radio does turn off when I try the ignition to the "start" position.
None of the lights work except the headlights (High/Lo and normal)
Fuse 27 still blows with the autolamp circuit but I expect the new switch to correct this issue.
No indicator lights on the cluster when I turn the key to the "run" position

I'm not sure if this is a TRS issue or an ignition switch issue. I do hear the relay kick over when I try to start the ignition. One thing I do know is I have a lot of issues going on here but if I can divide and conquor I can start tackling some of these problems, hopefully someone on here can give some guidance. I can provide wiring diagrams if necessary.
magic_ninja is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-20-2014, 18:06   #2 (permalink)
Dazed and Confused
 
CatSkinner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,571
Re: 2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank

If you have power at fuse F237, your problem is in the range selector.

__________________
'Scuse me, while I scrape this Honda outta my treads.
CatSkinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2014, 04:36   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 7
Re: 2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank

And to clarify this is regarding the No-Crank issue?

And by range selector you mean the NSS?
magic_ninja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2014, 13:26   #4 (permalink)
Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,067
Re: 2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank

If that battery as you say was put in with the wrong polarity i'd suggest you call your
insurance company and write the car off. You will have nothing but trouble. the car is
14 years old. Your ECM is already fried. Sorry.
chipset is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2014, 13:37   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 7
Re: 2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank

Well, the ECM wasn't fried as I was able to drive this car until recently. I wish the insurance company would cover it, but I don't think they would. The bottom line is as far as I know my electronic modules are still functioning (lucky me).

The first issue I'm working on is my no-crank issue. The voltage going into the DTR is good (11.45V) which is the battery voltage and is normal given the circumstances (the car sitting and me probing electrical stuff and repeatedly trying to start it). There is no voltage coming out of the DTR so I'm guessing the DTR is bad and needs replaced. I'll be doing this shortly and keep you guys updated, let me know if anyone else has any suggestions.

I also double-checked the fuses and the starter relay. The relay is good, but won't kick due to a lack of voltage at the DTR. Could this also cause the issue with my cluster panel not getting power for lights/gauges?
magic_ninja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2014, 14:53   #6 (permalink)
Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,067
Re: 2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank

it could take months for the ECM damage to show up. but it will. No offense.
Boosting a correctly hooked up battery has been known to damage an ECM when the
surge of the disconnect or connect of the booster cables happen. It took almost one year for the damage to show up on the last ECM i tested. It was boosted. You had reverse polarity. That is an electrical explosion. Cut your losses. Get rid of it. Don't spend anymore money. Just my opinion. Again no offense.
chipset is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2014, 17:57   #7 (permalink)
Dazed and Confused
 
CatSkinner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,571
Re: 2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank

Digital Transmission Range Sensor, B234 in the diagram.
__________________
'Scuse me, while I scrape this Honda outta my treads.
CatSkinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 04:18   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 7
Re: 2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank

No offense taken btw, thanks for the tips on the damage taking a while to show up. Electricity in general can be quite finicky, you are right.

And you called it right on. I tested the voltages today, there is voltage going into the neutral safety switch but no voltage coming out.

If the damage doesn't show up for a year that is fine with me, as of right now its my only option for a vehicle.
magic_ninja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 15:57   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 7
Re: 2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank

So I replaced my range selector, I'm still having the same issue.
magic_ninja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 18:14   #10 (permalink)
Dazed and Confused
 
CatSkinner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,571
Re: 2000 Mercury Sable No-Crank

If you have power going in, it might be an adjustment. Not entirely sure if it's adjustable, I primarily work on dinosaurs.
__________________
'Scuse me, while I scrape this Honda outta my treads.
CatSkinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars > Ford Cars and PAG Vehicles > Ford Taurus | Mercury Sable | Ford Taurus SHO | 1986-2007



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:47.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.