I Have an 03 Taurus SE 3.0 215,000 KMS on it.
Car works great! Until I turn on the Air Cond. After a while, the car wil start to sputter and eventually stall.. When I try to start again, like it's out of gas, then after a few seconds, will start. The next day, I didn't have to use the Air Cond, and the car worked perfect all day! and has been working great for a week, until I turned the air back on :( and started sputtering and stalling again. I was told POS fuel pump. Check Engine Light comes on just before the stall, but when started back up, goes off. A fuel pump here costs around $400.00 CDN funds + installation, so I would like to find out if anyone else had this problem before I do this expensive repair for nothing. I do notice with the air on the fuel pump does make unusual noises and seems louder.
Do any parts stores check for codes there? Some pull codes for free. You may have a code even without the light. That might give an indication. When it stalls, it would be nice to have a fuel pressure gauge on it to see if the pressure drops when it stalls.
Are you sure the compressor is not seized stopping or slowing down the belt, slowing down the alt. and not giving the fuel pump full voltage. Anything below 10 volts and the
fuel pump will quit. i dought very much you have a fuel pump problem. Works fine until you turn on the AC doesn't it. That is where i'd be looking. Yes a $3000.00 code reader
that dealers have will pull that code. Even if it doesn't stay on. It doesn't cost $400.00
to have the codes pulled.
I have a code reader....No codes showing. Compressor not seized. I drive for close to 8 hrs daily with air on. Only towards the end of the 8 hr drive the car will start acting up.
I had the obvious checked (compressor, fuel filter, ect) I was told if the compressor was seized, the air will not work. My air works perfect. Having the air on does cause the fuel pump to work harder, which is why you lose fuel milage with air on.My guess is either it's on it's way out, or an incorrect fuel pump was installed by the previous owner. The gas tank and pump were new when I bought the car.
What is the RPM of the fuel pump and electrical draw ? What does it draw when the AC
is on ? What does it draw without the AC ? What is the electrical curve of the scope
pattern ? It doesn't take 8 hours to have a pump act up. It will do it within 1/2 hour. Now you are saying the AC works perfect.Having the air on has nothing to do with the fuel pump working harder. If the gas tank and pump were new when you bought the car why are you blaming the pump ? You have a $200.00 code reader and i'm giving you the benefit of the dought. That " toy " no offence, will NOT give you the codes that you need. It will NOT sense a temparary code and it will not give you the information you need. The code readers that cost thousands will actually tell you when there was a problem, what RPM, what time of day, what MPH, what throttle pressure, what brake pressure, Temp, AC on or off, when the ac quit, when it started, and everything you need to know. It goes on and on. Does a code reader you buy at a parts store do that ?
NOT. What you buy is a code " puller ". there is about a $3000.00 difference. you don't
have a pump problem. Mind you i have been wrong before.
You need to re read my thread chip.
I said nothing about the air not working properly. And I'm not blaming the pump! That is the reason for this thread? to find the problem, not argue with people who don't know what they're talking about.This post is about a stalling isue.
The code reader I have is top notch I assure you. If you can find me one like mine for 200.00 please send me 10. (asap) Yes, The gas tank and pump are recent. You never bought a part for your car that was faulty or damaged? Please give me the name of your local parts store. Since you do not have a logical answer and would prefere to tell me what I have and do not have, no need to keep this going.
If you can you get it to stall, put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see what the pressure does when it happesns. How about the filter? They can plug up fast if a batch of poor gas gets in the tank. We've had aftermarket pumps fail in less than a year at times. OEM have pretty good results. Do a volume test also, about 1 qt in 30 sec. You don't have to let it run 30 sec. but you can tell if it will end up that amount.
I passed your info on to my mechanic, who did just what you said. Luckily, the car was acting up when he tested. Turns out fuel pump was faulty. He explained to me pretty much what you stated, and replaced the fuel pump with an OEM yesterday. I have not had a problem with the car as of yet and I am running the air constantly.
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