Cephalus

We are trying to replace the front brake pads on a '96 taurus. On the left side, the Caliper piston seems to be stuck - on the right side we pushed the piston down by opening up the brake line thing on the caliper, and as we pushed it down some brake fluid came out, but on the left side we cannot get the piston to go down at all.

Any ideas?

SHOZ123

I assume you are using a C clamp? If so then it may be jammed and probably time for a replacement.

angelfast

Well have you tried using a Use a 6 point socket? or the best way to remove it is to take your needle nose plier and open it up.Depending how wide
your pliers open up, you might not need to open it up all the way. Then just stick the needle nose pliers into the rear piston where the two grooves are, and push down while turning with as much force as you can push. My pistons seemed very tough to turn at first, but once you get going, it gets smoother as you begin to turn. The best way to do this, is to get the tips of the needle nose pliers to the far edge of the circumference of the piston as possible without going out too far (otherwise you'll slip out), therefore you get the most torque out of it. And essentially, the tips of the pliers fit into the two grooves and to turn the pliers clockwise. This is what I did when I have the same problem with my Honda brake caliper.--And One thing,Please!!, don't ever buy the brake piston CUBE tool thingy, it'll be no different than flushing money down the toilet, not to mention the aggravation! Hope it works...Good luck...

tbird100636

OK......did you even read the post or were you half asleep whe you typed a response??? He said the front calipers, not the rear.

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Master ASE Certified L1 Chrysler Technician- still a Ford fan at heart.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- Chantily Beige- 390 FE 4V V8-Uncle's Car
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- Red- 390 FE 4V V8- Uncle's other car- waiting for paint and body work!!!
1967 Mustang Convertible- Blue- 289 V8- helping a friend re-assemble this classic

dac122

So we're talking the front, right? If so, when I did my '97 at about 55K miles I don't recall having to open the bleeder screws was necessary. A good C-clamp should press them back no problem. If they won't budge you're probably looking at bound up pistons, in which case you need to rebuild/replace the calipers.

On the rear calipers, yes, I opened the bleeder screws to press the pistons back. But my pistons bound up around 130K miles and I had to replace the rear calipers.

jwko

I think what the author must have done is removed both calipers instead of doing one at a time and when the piston on one was compressed it forced the other one out causing it to jam. - Been there done that ONCE... - Yes a good C clamp is the way to do that, no need to open the system on front's.

angelfast

oh i see...I must have overlooked that..sorry budd...I've browsed too much on this, must have strained my eyes already... ok then, ya I agree the C clamp would be much better to use...