Ford Taurus | Mercury Sable | Ford Taurus SHO | 1986-2007Forum for discussion of the Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable and Ford Taurus SHO. Covers vehicle years: 1986-2007
Last year I purchased new wheel bearings for my Taurus. Last week I had to change my rotors and pads to get rid of a bad shimmy when applying the brakes so I thought this would be a good time to also change the bearings.
Well, I didn't get very far! First I could not get the da$#% 3 holding bolts out of the old bearing/hub assembly so I just gave up. But I have a 99 Ford CD and was looking at it today, it appears that from what I could figure out, I need to remove the entire wheel knuckle in order to remove the bearing assembly.
Not sure when I will attempt this again but has anybody changed the front bearings and if so, what was the procedure. Note, I have a noisey wheel bearing, that is why I purchased these things last year. Now though, I find it might be the rear bearings rather than the front units. I still would like to know how to change the bearings though.
Last year I purchased new wheel bearings for my Taurus. Last week I had to change my rotors and pads to get rid of a bad shimmy when applying the brakes so I thought this would be a good time to also change the bearings.
Well, I didn't get very far! First I could not get the da$#% 3 holding bolts out of the old bearing/hub assembly so I just gave up. But I have a 99 Ford CD and was looking at it today, it appears that from what I could figure out, I need to remove the entire wheel knuckle in order to remove the bearing assembly.
Not sure when I will attempt this again but has anybody changed the front bearings and if so, what was the procedure. Note, I have a noisey wheel bearing, that is why I purchased these things last year. Now though, I find it might be the rear bearings rather than the front units. I still would like to know how to change the bearings though.
Foggy
Besides taking the axle nut off, you have to seperate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm. Should use a puller, as the lower control arm is only stamped steel piece. Whole spindle does not have to come off.
__________________
Master ASE Certified L1 Chrysler Technician- still a Ford fan at heart.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- Chantily Beige- 390 FE 4V V8-Uncle's Car
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- Red- 390 FE 4V V8- Uncle's other car- waiting for paint and body work!!!
1967 Mustang Convertible- Blue- 289 V8- helping a friend re-assemble this classic
Besides taking the axle nut off, you have to seperate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm. Should use a puller, as the lower control arm is only stamped steel piece. Whole spindle does not have to come off.
YES!!! That was stated in the instructions on the CD ALTHOUGH IT MAKES NO SENSE TO ME. Almost reads like one has to toot the horn, turn on the wipers and roll down the windows in order to change a flat!
My background is electrical engineering. In my past position as an engineering manager I frequently found contraption ideas presented to me by mechanical engineers. Most engineers are very good in the profession but others make me wonder. Why the #$@* does a ball joint need to be removed to change a wheel bearing??
Foggy
EDIT: There is an excellent discussion over at the TaurusClub on changing bearings. The pointer is below, if it doesn't violate board rules and is not removed.
YES!!! That was stated in the instructions on the CD ALTHOUGH IT MAKES NO SENSE TO ME. Almost reads like one has to toot the horn, turn on the wipers and roll down the windows in order to change a flat!
My background is electrical engineering. In my past position as an engineering manager I frequently found contraption ideas presented to me by mechanical engineers. Most engineers are very good in the profession but others make me wonder. Why the #$@* does a ball joint need to be removed to change a wheel bearing??
Foggy
EDIT: There is an excellent discussion over at the TaurusClub on changing bearings. The pointer is below, if it doesn't violate board rules and is not removed.
Well, after looking at the write-up on TCCA's forum, I can point out 2 flaws with the procedure. 1. the axle nut will be really hard to remove with such a small ratchet, you will need to loosen and remove it with the wheel still on with a big enough ratchet or an impact gun. 2. DO NOT USE THE 2 JAW TIE ROD PULLER TO PULL OFF THE BEARING. THIS WILL PUSH FORCE AGAINST THE INNER AND OUTER CV JOINTS AND COULD DAMAGE THEM. THE SPINDLE WILL MORE THAN LIKELY COCK TO ONE SIDE WHEN THE PULLER IS TIGHTENED. You're replacing the bearing anyways, just hammer on the hub and it will come out. You should be able to sneak out the bolts with extensions and universal joints with the axle pushed in (tap the end with the nut on the end of the threads with a soft faced shot filled hammer. It should push in enough by hand to get on the bolts. Otherwise, you'll still have to pop the ball joint from the control arm.
__________________
Master ASE Certified L1 Chrysler Technician- still a Ford fan at heart.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- Chantily Beige- 390 FE 4V V8-Uncle's Car
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- Red- 390 FE 4V V8- Uncle's other car- waiting for paint and body work!!!
1967 Mustang Convertible- Blue- 289 V8- helping a friend re-assemble this classic
Well, after looking at the write-up on TCCA's forum, I can point out 2 flaws with the procedure. 1. the axle nut will be really hard to remove with such a small ratchet, you will need to loosen and remove it with the wheel still on with a big enough ratchet or an impact gun. 2. DO NOT USE THE 2 JAW TIE ROD PULLER TO PULL OFF THE BEARING. THIS WILL PUSH FORCE AGAINST THE INNER AND OUTER CV JOINTS AND COULD DAMAGE THEM. THE SPINDLE WILL MORE THAN LIKELY COCK TO ONE SIDE WHEN THE PULLER IS TIGHTENED. You're replacing the bearing anyways, just hammer on the hub and it will come out. You should be able to sneak out the bolts with extensions and universal joints with the axle pushed in (tap the end with the nut on the end of the threads with a soft faced shot filled hammer. It should push in enough by hand to get on the bolts. Otherwise, you'll still have to pop the ball joint from the control arm.
Thanks TBird!!! Nice to see your on top of these posts to offer suggestions and help!
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