Re: Ball joint or tire on wrong?
jwko is right about pressing the ball joint out and in. I have a large Dodge Truck and Jeep ball joint set from OTC and it does not have the exact adaptors to do a 96-2007 Taurus/Sable. I can tell you pushing it out is a bit easier than pushing it back in. The C-Frame press with an adaptor pushes the ball joint out of the spindle. The forcing screw pushes the adaptor against the ball joint which pushes it out. I think it didn't push it all the way out, and had to hammer the joint to get it out the rest of the way.
With the new one, you need 2 adaptors. One on the forcing screw pushes against the bottom of the spindle, on goes on top of the ball joint and pushes it into the spindle. The adaptor I use for the top is like a little cup, but it's too deep to push the joint all the way in. Enter a stack of fender washers. The washers will not damage the joint, the washers wil just get a little bent but it works. The pushing adaptor is barely the right size. It fits around the outside of the spindle hole. Be forewarned, the new joints boot can snag on the spindle hole. If the boot can be removed without damage, do it before install, then put the boot back after the joint is in. If you can't easily get the boot off spray it with some lube.
Separating the joint from the lower arm in the beginning once the taper is popped isn't all that bad... if you have a huge pry bar. Pry down on the control arm until it clears the ball joint. I think I removed the axle nut too to let the axle slip out of the bearing and allow the spindle to swing out of the way and clear the lower arm easier. Hope this helps.
Master ASE Certified L1 Chrysler Technician- still a Ford fan at heart.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- Chantily Beige- 390 FE 4V V8-Uncle's Car
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- Red- 390 FE 4V V8- Uncle's other car- waiting for paint and body work!!!
1967 Mustang Convertible- Blue- 289 V8- helping a friend re-assemble this classic