marathonman

I really need some help. I own a 2000 Sable that has 90k on it. About 60K the check engine light came on. The car ran fine but the light was on. This car is still under an extended warranty, so I have been taking this car to the dealership. It has been there 5 times. I have even taken it to a different Ford dealer and none of them can keep the check engine light from coming on. Every time we go there the car gives a different code. And the dealer is more than happy to charge me a $50 deductable to fix whatever the code tells them and/or charge me for whatever wear items they can find. (I guess they think I am made out of money). After this the longest the check engine light has stayed off is 2 weeks. Some times it comes back on in the dealer parking lot as I am driving away.

The dealer has told me that there is nothing they/I can do, it is a "known problem," and some day Ford will probably have a fix for it. I have complained to Ford and they listened but have not done a thing about it (or really seemed to care).

I have also taken this car to Autozone and had them read and reset the codes. And every time the code comes back different. Right now the code reads 0171 & 0174. I really would not care, but the car seems to be using gas faster than it should.

What can I do? What can I tell Ford or the dealership to get this fixed? What should I do on my own to diagnose this problem?


Here is a list of the parts the dealer has replaced:

Spark Plugs
Ignition Coil Assembly(check engine light was flashing and the car had no power)
Fuel Filter Depfe sensor
SNS ASY EGR press valve
EGR valve
Differential Oil seal

Codes that Auto zone read and reset but never seen again.

Both O2 sensors bad
Engine running lean

bowtie420

ok, lets start by saying i am not familiar with a 00 sable, i am a GM tech and i sift around to different forums looking at types of problems other vehicle makers have. A P0171 is a Fuel trim system lean code. Ok, your o2 sensors would read bad with a lean code, not necessarily meaning they are bad, but getting a bad reading. the tech should monitor 02 mV readings to deem this true.( you will want a good rich to lean sweep on your Sensor before the cat, and a more steady signal around 500 mV after cat.) Now, what would make it lean, a vaccum leak (do the carb cleaner trick, take a can and spray any vaccum lines, (including vaccum lines to EVAP) fittings and around the upper intake observing any change in idle) also check lines for kinks, incorrect MAF( MAss Air Flow) reading (from contamination or being restricted, check that out make sure it is free of debris). A fuel pressure test should also be done, not just at priming, but observe bleed down time and actually tape the guage to the windshiled and drive the car with the guage on, and see if any certain driving condition gives a bad reading. A diagnostic tool would be prime, as you would also want to check IAC actual and desired counts. I hope this get you off on a start if you want to try to diagnose this yorself, good luck to you

marathonman

Hey thanks bowtie420.

Now I am kind of a newbe when it comes to working on cars. I will figure out how to do everyting. But what order should I check these things?

phxmark

I had a 2000 Ford F-150 that did the same thing. Constant 0171 and 0174 codes. Ford dealer couldn't figure it out. Turned out to be a bat hose fitting hidden in the back of the engine. Caused a vaccum leak and subsequent codes.