I am swapping motors on my parents 96 duratec sable wagon. This is due to a broken valve spring and dropped valve, leading to a shattered piston which took out a chunk of the block.
Anyway, I am at the parts store last night and start talking with a guy who said he had to put 2 engines in his car because the first one he swapped locked up after he had it up and running for 45 minutes. He said he found out after, that you have to prime the engine by taking one of the allen plugs out that are the side of the head and connect some plumbing from it to a can which you put about 2 quarts of oil into and connect up an airline to the other side of this can. Then rotate the crank and watch until you have oil coming up the rockers.
Is this the proper procedure? I know when you change oil you can prime by holding the throttle to the floor. Will this not work with an engine that has been sitting awhile?
Try that prime with an engine that is " sitting too long " and you will not have a engine for long. Don't know where you got that idea from.
Chipset, which priming method are you referring to? The first came from a guy at the parts store and the second one about putting the accelerator to the floor I've read several places online. It is the same as pulling the fuse to the fuel pump as Ford programs their ecms to protect the engine from flooding by cutting the fuel when starting at WOT.
How would you go about priming an engine similar to mine? It had been in a salvage yard for 1 year.
As long as there had been oil in the engine at one time and ran there is no reason to
force oil through it by pulling the allen plug. and yes that is usually done with a brand new engine that has never run and had no oil in it. I do it sometime. Just change the oil and fill the filter as best you can before installing it. If there is any dirt or snot in the oil gallery when you pressurize it you will spread it all through the engine. Let the filter clean it up. I've had engines sitting 11 years and they start and run with oil pressure
just fine without priming and not putting the peddle to the metal. Don't worry about it.
Change the oil and filter and let her rip. DON'T PUT IT TO THE FLOOR. You could very
likely see a rod peeking through the block. Even it you do put it to the floor the rev
limiter will kick in. It will not go over 3000 rpm and surge like crazy. Ford guaranteed
his flathead V8 to run without oil for 7 miles providing it did have oil in it and ran at one
time. There are only 4 rod bearings in a flathead. V8. If you have to prime any engine the way you describe there is something very seriously wrong with your oil pump.
The WOT trick to disable the injectors may work. But, what if it catches and runs on whatever was left in the intake? Belt and suspenders theory of Anti-Murphy optimism is to disable the ignition and disable the fuel pump. Pulling fuses seems to be a good way to accomplish that. They come out easily, and likely have a label on the underside of the cover.
If the engine sat for that many months, I'd be thinking about removing all the spark plugs, dumping a tablespoon of oil in each plug opening, and then, with spark and fuel disabled, cranking it over until the oil pressure warning light extinguished. That would be at ~5psi... That would make sure there was some lube on the cylinder walls, and that oil had reached all the gallery spots before the engine loaded the bearings and such with combustion pressures.
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