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Old 11-09-2010, 19:09   #1 (permalink)
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HELP! ADVICE! Water pump leak???

I HAVE A MAJOR AAAHHHHhhhhh POOP! My 99 Taurus SE with 12 valve and 170Kmiles decided to take a leak! And yes, the coolant is rusty looking but has been that way now since I got the car 3 years ago...........it does seem a little worse now though.

I noticed the water was coming from under where the pump is located. Took it to my friendly garage, was told that to change this think it was going to cost $1000!!! no, i WILL NOT PUMP THAT AMOUNT OF $$$$ into my lovable Taurus. But the story gets more confusing. He went on to say the water was coming out between the timing chain cover and teh engine block so not only did the pump need replacement, but at a minimum the timing chain cover will need a new gasket.

I was bewildered. I asked if water was getting into the oil.... no. But how can the water coolant pump be part of the oil circuit??? I did not get a good answer to that question. But presume the water is coming from a leak between the timing chain cover and the engine bolck, how the heck could that happen??

PLEASE--- I need some advice. I have a "shade tree mechanic" who wants to do the work, cost will be much less but again another but. Suppose this gets to be a far more complicated job because water is getting out the timing cover???

DOES THIS MAKE SENSE????

Thanks--

Foggy
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Old 11-09-2010, 19:50   #2 (permalink)
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Re: HELP! ADVICE! Water pump leak???

It can come out from behind the timing cover. I've seen that before and none in the oil. Make sure you flush the coolant good so there's no more rust. The coolant should be flushed every 2 years or so.
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Old 11-09-2010, 20:45   #3 (permalink)
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Re: HELP! ADVICE! Water pump leak???

Usually, if its the cover leaking (red arrows) it will run down the left or the right of the cover. If its leaking at water pump snout (blue arrow), its the pump.

If it does turn out to be the cover, with that many miles, be sure to have the chain and seal replaced while its apart.

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Old 11-09-2010, 21:00   #4 (permalink)
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Re: HELP! ADVICE! Water pump leak???

Hi, once you remove the timing cover, and see where it has eroded away, you'll wonder how it could hold any water at all.
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Old 11-10-2010, 07:30   #5 (permalink)
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Re: HELP! ADVICE! Water pump leak???

Thanks folks for yor fine description of what is happening. I need to follow up with a couple of more questions.

Is the waterpump acting as a cover to the timeing chain or is there another cover for the chain. Do I need to purchase both a timecover and a pump?

Timing chain-- I am guessing that the gear that eventually drives the cam shaft is removed via holding bolts and does not need a gear puller. Yes, I do know there is a lot of miles on the engine so changing the chain is good adivce. But there is not much room in there to work and there is a good chance to screw up the mechanical timing.

I think I am going to attack this thing along with my shade tree guy. Anything I need to watch out for?

Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!

Foggy
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Old 11-10-2010, 08:04   #6 (permalink)
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Re: HELP! ADVICE! Water pump leak???

The water pump is bolted to the chain cover. If it is in fact leaking at the cover, you'll need to replace the gasket that's shown in the illustration.

You'll remove the timing chain by unbolting the cam gear (top) but the bottom gear will require a claw type puller. I have in the past used a chisel and just broke the bottom gear but you need to be careful not to damage the crank snout.

Another thing to look for, when you remove the harmonic balancer, have a look where the seal rides and make sure there is not a groove cut from wear. If so, you'll need a balancer sleeve kit.

I'll try to get you some step by step instructions and post back.
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Old 11-10-2010, 08:07   #7 (permalink)
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Re: HELP! ADVICE! Water pump leak???

Water Pump



Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Drain engine cooling system.
3. Loosen four water pump pulley retaining bolts while drive belts are still tight.
4. Remove drive belt.
5. Remove the drive belt tensioner.
6. Disconnect and remove heater water hose from water pump. Remove engine control sensor wiring from locating stud bolt.
7. Remove 11 water pump to engine retaining bolts.
8. Lift water pump and water pump pulley up and out of vehicle.

Installation

1. CAUTION: Use care when scraping as aluminum gouges easily which may form leak paths.

NOTE: Lightly oil all bolt and stud bolt threads with Motorcraft Super Premium 5W30 Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-G before installation except those specifying special sealant.

Clean gasket surfaces on water pump and engine front cover.

2. Position a new water pump housing gasket on water pump sealing surface using Gasket and Trim Adhesive F3AZ-1913508-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2G52-A to hold the water pump housing gasket in place.
3. NOTE: Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G350-A2 to bolt No. 3 (as illustrated) prior to installation.

With water pump pulley loosely positioned on water pump hub, align water pump to engine front cover and install retaining bolts.

4. Tighten retaining bolts as follows:

o No. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 to 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft. lbs.).
o No. 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 to 8-12 Nm (71-106 inch lbs.) . Install engine control sensor wiring to locating stud bolt (FFV only).

5. Hand-tighten water pump pulley retaining bolts.
6. Install drive belt tensioner.
7. Install the drive belt.
8. Tighten water pump pulley retaining bolts to 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft. lbs.).
9. Install heater water hose. Clamp securely.
10. Fill and bleed engine cooling system.
11. Connect battery ground cable.
12. Start engine and check for coolant and oil leaks.
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Old 11-10-2010, 08:12   #8 (permalink)
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Re: HELP! ADVICE! Water pump leak???

Timing Cover



Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Drain engine cooling system.
3. Loosen four water pump pulley bolts while drive belt is in place.
4. Remove drive belt.
5. Remove drive belt tensioner.
6. Remove lower radiator hose and heater water hose.
7. Remove crankshaft pulley and damper.
8. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring from Crankshaft Position sensor and locating stud bolt.
9. NOTE: Do not cut and seal oil pan gasket.

Always replace with new oil pan gasket.
Drain and remove oil pan. Discard removed oil pan gasket.



10. Remove water pump pulley retaining bolts and water pump pulley.
11. Remove retaining bolts from engine front cover to cylinder block.
12. NOTE: The engine front cover and water pump may be removed as an assembly by not removing bolt numbers 11 through 15 as shown.

Carefully remove engine front cover and water pump as an assembly from cylinder block.



Installation

1. CAUTION: Aluminum gouges easily; use care when scraping gasket material from engine front cover or leakage may occur upon reassembly.

NOTE: Lightly oil all bolt and stud bolt threads with Motorcraft Super Premium 5W30 Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-G before installation except those specifying special sealant.

Carefully clean all gasket material from engine front cover and cylinder block.

2. Clean sealant from cylinder block to oil pan and engine front cover mating surfaces using Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M513392-A.
3. Inspect crankshaft front seal for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
4. Align engine front cover gasket over cylinder block dowels.
5. Install crankshaft front oil seal protector onto crankshaft if available.
6. Install engine front cover and water pump as an assembly onto cylinder block with water pump pulley loosely attached to water pump hub.
7. Hand-start engine front cover retaining bolts. Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent meeting Ford specifications WSK-M2G350-A2 and ESR-M18P7-A to bolt Nos. 1, 2 and 3 as illustrated.
8. Tighten retaining bolt No. 1 through 9 and 15 to 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft. lbs.) and No. 10 through 14 to 8-12 Nm (71-106 inch lbs.).
9. Clean inside of oil pan. Install oil pan.
10. Hand-tighten water pump pulley retaining bolts.
11. Install crankshaft damper and crankshaft pulley. Tighten damper retaining bolt to 125-165 Nm (93-121 ft. lbs.) and the four pulley retaining bolts to 40-55 Nm (30-44 ft. lbs.) .
12. If crankshaft position sensor was removed from engine front cover, install crankshaft position sensor and tighten retaining bolts to 5-7 Nm (45-61 inch lbs.) .
13. Install drive belt tensioner.
14. Install drive belt. Tighten water pump pulley retaining bolts to 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft. lbs.) .
15. Install lower radiator hose and heater water hose. Clamp securely.
16. Fill and bleed engine cooling system.
17. Fill crankcase to proper level with Motorcraft Super Premium 5W30 Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-G.
18. Connect battery ground cable.
19. Start engine and check for coolant, exhaust and oil leaks.
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Old 11-10-2010, 08:16   #9 (permalink)
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Re: HELP! ADVICE! Water pump leak???

Oil Pan Gasket (If you need it.)

Article No.
03-5-3

03/17/03
ENGINE - 3.0L 2V (VULCAN) REVISED OIL PAN
GASKET REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE - NEW
SERVICE KIT - SERVICE TIP

FORD:
1986-2001 TAURUS
1990-1991 PROBE
1992-1994 TEMPO
1986-1997 AEROSTAR
1991-2001 RANGER
1995-2000 WINDSTAR

MERCURY:
1986-2001 SABLE
1992-1994 TOPAZ

Article 01-12-4 is being republished in its entirety to update the Service Parts involved.
ISSUE
A service oil pan gasket and a new service oil pan gasket kit has been released for all 3.0L-2V "Vulcan" engines built from 1986-2001. The new service (only) gasket eliminates the need to attach the gasket to the block with a contact adhesive thus eliminating gasket creep (sideways) movement during installation. Slightly longer fasteners (bolts) have also been released and packaged in the kit. The old bolts must be replaced with the new ones. The new gasket is installed by placing it on the oil pan and not gluing it to the block. The bolts will still have to be torqued twice during installation and once after the engine has reached operating temperature. The torque value for the bolts has not changed and is the same as listed in the Workshop Manuals.

ACTION
Install the new service Oil Pan Gasket Service Kit (2U7Z-6710-AA). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Use the following revised Oil Pan Gasket kit (2U7Z-6710-AA) installation procedure.
1. Remove the oil pan as instructed in the appropriate model year Service Work Shop Manual and discard the old gasket and fasteners (bolts).

2. Clean and inspect both the oil pan and the engine block mounting surface. Carefully and thoroughly remove all traces of the old RTV sealant from the oil pan and engine block. Refer to the Workshop Manual for the correct metal surface cleaner.



3. Apply beads of Silicone Gasket and Sealant (F7AZ-19554-EA), or equivalent meeting Ford specification (WSE-M4G323-A4) to the front cover and rear bearing cap-to-block parting lines (Figure 2).

4. Install the gasket on the oil pan, being careful not to damage the plastic tabs.



5. Install the oil pan to the engine block with the new fastener (bolts) packaged in the service kit, run down all the bolts by hand (Figure 1).

NOTE THE TWO CORNER BOLTS NEAR THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE ARE A DIFFERENT LENGTH.

6. Tighten the four (4) corner bolts first to 106 Lb-in (12 N.m).

7. Tighten the remaining fourteen (14) bolts from back to front (alternating from side to side) to 106 Lb-in (12 N.m). Figure 1.

8. Check all the bolts by retightening to the same torque specification.

9. Finish installing the oil pan per appropriate model year and vehicle application Workshop Manual procedure.

10. Refill engine with oil, start engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. The cooling fan should cycle at least one time. Stop the engine and retighten (torque) all the oil pan bolts to 106 Lb-in (12 N.m).

11. Inspect for oil leaks.
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Old 11-10-2010, 08:42   #10 (permalink)
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Re: HELP! ADVICE! Water pump leak???

HOLY SMOKY ANDY!!!!

JWKO---That is one hell_of_a_job!!! No way am I going through all that. Heck the car has 170K on it and is 11 years old. If I can pull the pump, replace the timing gasket that is about the extent of what I am willing to expend.

If I can get another 25+K on it then it is worth a new pump. Beyond that, I would rather purchase something with lower milage and start over.

Now please do not misinterpret my appreciation for the task you just described. But you are a skilled mechanic who is able to do task A in 1/4 time as me and then move onto task B. Even with the simpler task of changing only the pump and timing gasket, I will run a risk of screwing up something.

Foggy
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