Re: Help!! I might have to give up my SHO.....
Ok. I'll give you a quick rundown on how your ignition system works. I dug up my trusty old Chiltons 1986-95 Taurus/Sable manual and found that the SHO's ignition system works allot like a Chrysler's DIS system. (I work for a Dodge dealer but my family has had many Tauruses and Sables in the past few years.) The coils get 12V power from the ignition switch with the key on. This wire is Red with a Light Green tracer stripe. Given you vehicle does run that this is not the issue-just check it anyways and make sure it has close to what the battery voltage is. The coil uses electro magnetism to work. There's two circuits in each coil. The primary circuit, which is a coil of thick wire which steps up the battery voltage to around 300V. This is done by grounding each coil through three seperate wires. All three are yellow with different tracers on each wire. (One white, one red, and one black.) What makes the coils fire is the opening of the ground on each coil. The removal of the ground causes the 300V magnetic field to collapse onto the secondary circuit of the coil, which is an ultra-fine coil of wire (Thinner than a strand of hair) which steps up the 300V to 20,000 to 30,000V and the Voltage goes out of the coil through the spark plug wires, then jumps or arcs across the gap of the spark plug, igniting the gas. The item that grounds and un-grounds the coils to cause them to fire is the ignition control module, but this is based on information it receives from the crankshaft position and camshaft postion sensors. The ignition control module fires the coils based on crankshaft position and camshaft postion. From what you've described so far it sounds like possibly there is an issue with the Crank sensor. DEpending how they fail they could remotely kill an ignition module however, the sensor reads off of a tone wheel on the crankshaft sprocket that drives the timing belt. Unfortunately, its located behind the timing covers so you would have to remove thenm to look at the tone wheel and see if it's damaged or loose. I myself have never had a SHO motor apart so I could tell you if the tone wheel is cast into the sprocket or tack welded onto the sprocket, but if it was welded on anthe welds broke, the wheel could potentially walk and cause you condition. The sensor is normally checked with a digitall multi-meter with a graphing lab scope to show the pulses that the sensor makes. You would see unusual pulses that a bad sensor would make. I know this is a mouthful and you may not fully understand some of this but I tried to explain it as easily as I could. I'd hate to have to tell you to go to the dealer but they will have a better idea of which way to go. By the way, your EGR system is a DPFE type, which uses a pressure sensor with two hoses connected to the EGR tube. If the code is for EGR flow, the most likely cause is the DPFE sensor.
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