Ford Taurus | Mercury Sable | Ford Taurus SHO | 1986-2007Forum for discussion of the Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable and Ford Taurus SHO. Covers vehicle years: 1986-2007
The lower ball joint needs to be seperated after removing the nut. That can be the hard part when it's rusty. Sometimes a pickle-fork does not work. I bought me a pitman arm puller that does the trick nicely! Sometimes you have to heat the damn thing to break them loose even with a puller.
After it is seperated with a HUGE-ASS prybar, remove the axle nut and push the axle through. Use a ball-joint press to remove it after removing the clip and press the new one in.
Do you mean you need to replace the ball joint, or that you just need to disconnect it from the control arm? To disconnect it, (you'll love this--thanks Ford) you actually have to loosen the engine cradle bolts on the side you're working on. That will allow you to drop the control arm down far enough for the stud to clear the control arm. If you're talking about replacing it, you have two choices. If you have access to a ball joint press, you can do it right on the car. If you don't, remove the whole knuckle and take it to a machine shop and they'll press it out for you.
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I am planning to change mine soon. Already have the parts. What I plan to attempt is to jack the car, remove the wheel, lower the drum onto a support to collapse the spring, attach a spring compressor to the collapsed spring and then rejack. I am hoping this will give me enough clearance to get the ball joint out. I just don't look forward to screwing around with the subframe.
Oh, I don't know how I am going to get the ball joint out of the A frame? or what ever its called. I have a gear puller but someone suggested a different type of puller that I might purchase before I start the job.
Do you mean you need to replace the ball joint, or that you just need to disconnect it from the control arm? To disconnect it, (you'll love this--thanks Ford) you actually have to loosen the engine cradle bolts on the side you're working on. That will allow you to drop the control arm down far enough for the stud to clear the control arm. If you're talking about replacing it, you have two choices. If you have access to a ball joint press, you can do it right on the car. If you don't, remove the whole knuckle and take it to a machine shop and they'll press it out for you.
Great advice! I just replaced the hub/bearing assembly on 2000 Sable, which by design requires removing the axle and separating the ball joint. I put the new parts on but couldn't figure out how to lower the control arm enough to re-seat the ball joint. A simple search saved me hours of potential frustration.
Is the cradle mentioned in this thread- also called the subframe?
Thanks
Gregmy123
Yes.
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Master ASE Certified L1 Chrysler Technician- still a Ford fan at heart.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- Chantily Beige- 390 FE 4V V8-Uncle's Car
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- Red- 390 FE 4V V8- Uncle's other car- waiting for paint and body work!!!
1967 Mustang Convertible- Blue- 289 V8- helping a friend re-assemble this classic
Actually lowering the subframe when done one side at a time is no big deal. In fact it is the easy way to change struts or the alternator (on the Duratec or V8).
But you will probably find out your subframe bushings in the front are trash.
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