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Ford Taurus | Mercury Sable | Ford Taurus SHO | 1986-2007 Forum for discussion of the Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable and Ford Taurus SHO. Covers vehicle years: 1986-2007

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-04-08, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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new sable owner

Hello,

I recently got a 1996 Sable GS with 104k on it. Carfax was clean as is the car. Seems to me a good deal so far. Couple of questions with minor problems that I knew about when I bought.

The power locks on the driver door will open the lock but not lock it? The other buttons in the car do all the functions they are supposed to. Also the key unlock all works via the driver door key. Any ideas or is it likely the switch?

The wiper fluid is not working. No sound when pressing and fuses appear ok. Likely the pump or switch? Any advice on how to get under the shock tower to test the voltage to the pump?

Before I do any first changes... Has anyone found that synthetic oil, trans etc or maybe additives have performed best with this car? It is the simple 3.0.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-05-08, 06:22 PM
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cool Re: new sable owner

Quote:
Originally Posted by pittmike View Post
Hello,

I recently got a 1996 Sable GS with 104k on it. Carfax was clean as is the car. Seems to me a good deal so far. Couple of questions with minor problems that I knew about when I bought.

The power locks on the driver door will open the lock but not lock it? The other buttons in the car do all the functions they are supposed to. Also the key unlock all works via the driver door key. Any ideas or is it likely the switch?

The wiper fluid is not working. No sound when pressing and fuses appear ok. Likely the pump or switch? Any advice on how to get under the shock tower to test the voltage to the pump?

Before I do any first changes... Has anyone found that synthetic oil, trans etc or maybe additives have performed best with this car? It is the simple 3.0.

Thanks in advance,
Mike
Sounds like a bad left power lock switch. Disconnect the switch and with a test lead hooked to a good ground, ground the PK/YL wire. The doors should lock. Ground the PK/LG wire. The doors should unlock. With a test light hooked to power instead of ground probe the BK ground wires. The test light should illuminate. If all of these things happen then you have a bad lock switch. If not then first check the door wiring in the door jamb boot.
The WASHER pump can be accessed by partially removing the R.F. inner splash shield. Should be a few screws here and there. Using a test light hooked to ground probe the BK/WT wire and have someone hit the washer switch. The test light should illuminate. If it doesn't then check fuse 17 on the fuse panel inside of the car. Otherwise, the most common thing is the multi-function switch (wiper/washer/turn signal/high beam switch). Also with the test light hooked to power probe the BK wire. Test light should light. If the test light illuminates both times then you have a bad pump. Make sure you don't have frozen washer fluid.
As far as synthetic fluid, at 104,000 mi. I'd stick with conventional stuff or go with a synthetic blend for higher mileage. The higher mileage stuff has seal conditioners and additive to prevent excessive consumption.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-06-08, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
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Re: new sable owner

Thanks Tons! Will try your ideas out soon.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-06-08, 02:14 PM
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Re: new sable owner

The windshield washer switches often get dirty on this model. Mine worked intermittently until I cleaned it. If you narrow it down to that, it can be taken apart and cleaned.

There was a website somewhere with pics on how to disassemble and clean, but you don't need that. Just pop off the end cap and take it apart very, very, very carefully (did I mention very?). There are some small springs and parts in there that will shoot across your interior if you don't cup your hand around things, or cover with a rag. Once you safely get it apart clean all the parts including the contacts down inside with a Q-tip.
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