foggysail

Yes, this is a follow on post from my last with my 99 Taurus leaking water. I replaced it with another 99 that has only 79K or so miles on it.

First to the problem, I have a JAMMED DOOR LOCK with the door shut and drawing current.

Now for the details---

BUT BIG PROBLEMS!!! I was working on the electrical system a couple of days ago straighting out a wiring problem. And lo and behold, another AHhhh $_h_i_t! The door locks stopped working. I spend hours chasing GEMs/RAPs, fuses, documentation, ripped out and I do mean ripped out a couple of relays that I had to replace. and nothing!!!!

I also noticed the battery went dead last night. I also read a current drain of 1 ampere today. Heck, why not just pile it on.

Anyway, this afternoon I removed the battery cable and rushed off to my local dealer to purchase a couple of new relays. Got home, put them in, put the battery cable back on and BINGO!!! THE DOOR LOCKS WORK ---the next time they were slower, the following time they pooped!!! BUT ALL WAS NOT LOST!!!!!

The right rear doorlock IS JAMMED!!! I cannot open the door, cannot lift the lock on the door. BUT AT LEAST I KNOW WHERE MY OTHER PROBLEM WAS along with why the battery discharged.

BUT HOW THE HECK DO I GET AT THE THING WITH THE #$%^&* DOOR LOCKED SHUT???? As I type, I removed the battery cable hoping the circuit would cool down. One amp at 12v is 12 watts and that is being dissipated in the door lock motor.

DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS on how to approach this thing????

Foggy


EDIT:
WELL A LITTLE GOOD NEWS! I just left the garage after replacing the battery cable. When the cable touched the battery, the door lock cleared itself so I was able to open the door.

Any suggestions on pulling the door apart?

Thanks--

Foggy

thefonz

You're in luck since you can open the door now. Don't lock your doors untill you fix the problem. You may not be that lucky next time. Pulling the door panel is relatively simple. Most of the panel lift up now-a-days, not prying out like in years past. Most likely the actuator is on its last leg. disconnect it mechanically at least. To remove, there should be a large rivet holding it in. Just drill it out.

foggysail

Thanks Fonz, I will drill that sucker out!!! Heck, I can get by with only 3 doors that lock electrically, the other can be locked manually.

Hey--- can I just remove the electrical connection from the door and leave the carcass at rest within the door?

Foggy

Bert

You gan just unplug it. The rivet won't have to be drilled out.

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Bert

heavyd

try to lube the actuator through the rubber boot as the factory grease dries out
I've done this on a lot of my customers cars
the boot usually has a tie strap on the top were the rod goes in just cut the strap and put a little bit of light oil in side the boot like wd40 or 3in1

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certified locksmith

thefonz

WD40 is ok to free it up, but WD4 doesn't last long, follow up with a good lube. I'm pretty sure, if you don't go ahead and unhook the actuator mechanically, and it seizes, it will be stuck in that position and you won't be able to lock and unlock

foggysail

I gave up on it. I unplugged the connector. Locks that worked fine when I got the car only 3 days ago, just gave up. The door open light also doesn't work.

I have spent too many hours trying to match Ford's poorly documented wiring info to a nondescript component location to go forward. Wonder how their techs wade through such poor documentation.

Anyways, I paid $1100 for this thing with about 79K on it. OH--- Cruise control is out also but I think this is because there is an aftermarket transmission controller installed. My guess and it is only a guess is the link from the transmission got diverted to the aftermarket controller so the cruise controller doesn't get the needed information.

For what I paid for the car, I cannot complain but I maybe can drive it for another 100K.

I also noticed a high drain on the battery, about 1 ampere. That I will have to do a better job tracing, maybe pull one fuse at a time.

Foggy