alomar721

Hello there I am getting ready to change oil on my 1998 Ford Taurus with 110, 00 miles. I was wondering if I should switch to synthetic oil. If so do I have to do anything different? I just know I can’t switch back to regular oil once you go synthetic oil. I just need your guy’s opinion on what type of oil to go with.
Scott

Sterling_Six

Hello and good day;

I would go with Syn...I have been using Syn for years on my 2000 Taurus with a 114K can't go.

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Good Luck and good repairing Sterling_6
"You know, just like in that Book, When Jesus beats up Moses to get Religion!!"

jwko

Go with Mobile 1 or Amsoil. Mobile 1 is available almost everywhere, Amsoil is available online or through a local reseller.

360ci

Don't get ready, just CHANGE it already! I'd go with a good Synthetic, as jkwo mentioned, Mobil1 or Amsoil are the best on the market. I have no problem getting Amsoil as they have a distribution office an hour away from my residence so I can either pick it up that day, or get it mailed the following day.

I run Amsoil in all my vehicles. And you can switch back and forth from synthetics whenever you want to. Synthetic flow a bit better than petrol based oil which can free up some HP from lowering engine friction. Type? Just stick with a 5W20 (it's recommended in my '99 Taurus). I run the XL Amsoil oil in it and change it out once a year as I don't drive it too often. It's rated for 7500miles. I run 0W30 in my '06 Pontiac G6 GT which is the top of the line and is rated past 25K! Still, I'll be lucky to put on 16K in a year and will change it then.

I run Quaker State 4x4 semi synthetic in my small engines (unless it's a 2 stroke), just because I have a huge surplus of the stuff from when I owned my gas stations...just decided to keep it!

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'00 Durango R/T 360ci 290hp (modded); 138,500m
'06 Pontiac G6 GT 3.5L 220hp; 44,000m
'12 Chrysler 200 Limited 3.6L 283hp; 13,000m
'99 Taurus 3.0L 2V Vulcan 145hp; 154,300m - Traded
Amsoil in all vehicles!

RickMN

360ci has already debunked the "can't change back to traditional oil" myth, so I'll concentrate on what else your should do.

Buy a BETTER filter. Don't spend big bucks on synthetic oil and then spin on a cheap filter. Buy a Fram XG, Purolator PURE ONE, or a Mobil1 filter.

Read this article to see the differences between them:

Differences between economy and premium oil filters

Oh, and don't belive those bogus studies that claim Fram filters are no good

Bogus Oil Filter Study

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I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/

360ci

I concur. I used Fram XG16 filters up until I switched over to Amsoil (they make their own filters too for those who don't know). I liked the Fram XG series for the grip on the end of the filter. Much easier to take off. My version of 'hand tight' is, well, TIGHT. If you use any sort of filter with a hand grip not to over tighten or you'll need to use a wrench to get it off. Fram is still my #2 filter.

Any filter can have a drainback valve that can fail. Today's manufacturing tolerances are so tight that a chance of a failure is so small, you have better odds of winning the lottery than installing a bad filter, irregardless of brand or filtering ability.

__________________
'00 Durango R/T 360ci 290hp (modded); 138,500m
'06 Pontiac G6 GT 3.5L 220hp; 44,000m
'12 Chrysler 200 Limited 3.6L 283hp; 13,000m
'99 Taurus 3.0L 2V Vulcan 145hp; 154,300m - Traded
Amsoil in all vehicles!

alomar721

Thanks guys for the info. I am going to switch to synetic when I change oil.
Scott

tbird100636

Rick!!! Long time!!! Welcome back.

Honestly, I still wouldn't trust Fram. I've seen too many past and recent comparisons showing the Fram filters compared to others. Mobil 1 I'm not so sure about. Filter media OK but the inlet holes are teensy. Purolator Pure One is now know as Purolator Gold. I'd go with this one, has a silicone drain valve like the Ford filters, and a silicone seal too. Filter media is better than Fram. The yellow-gold paint is textured like the bottom of a Fram filter. The Motorcraft FL-400S (Vulcan, SHO) or FL-820S (Duratec) are actually good filters. I still use the 820S on my mother's 99 Sable without issue.

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Master ASE Certified L1 Chrysler Technician- still a Ford fan at heart.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- Chantily Beige- 390 FE 4V V8-Uncle's Car
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- Red- 390 FE 4V V8- Uncle's other car- waiting for paint and body work!!!
1967 Mustang Convertible- Blue- 289 V8- helping a friend re-assemble this classic

RickMN

Thanks TBird,

I've heard really good things about the Pureolator Gold. And we know that Wix is a good brand (but their economy filter is the NAPA silver series). As for Fram, their $3 filter is, well, a $3 filter. You get what you pay for.

Personally, I've been using their Fram's XG filters (no, I don't get them for free from Fram) and like them (especially after cutting them apart).

Just as an FYI, I interviewed the Chief Engineer at Fram (for my auto articles at The Family Handyman magazine) and he's the one who explained why it doesn't make much difference what size the inlet holes are. Basically you will never need the larger holes in the other brands. The oil pump simply never pumps that much volume. So, I just don't regard the hole size as a factor.

__________________
I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/